Rod Bolts Reusable?
Rod Bolts Reusable? I got a 2005 lq9, and since i have to pull the oil pan i wanted to inspect the bearings. Can i simply pull the rod caps off to inspect then reinstall them?
Wasn't sure if the stock rod bolts are reusable. I basically want to do this to check and make sure all bearings look good and one isn't spun or anything.
Wasn't sure if the stock rod bolts are reusable. I basically want to do this to check and make sure all bearings look good and one isn't spun or anything.
If your going that far you should just buy new bearings (30 bucks for standard clevite) and get some katech rod bolts just so you know it will hold up.
To answer your question- You can re-use them but would be cheaper in the long run to replace them now if you plan on reving it or making good power.
To answer your question- You can re-use them but would be cheaper in the long run to replace them now if you plan on reving it or making good power.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: PA/MD
I agree with above posts, go ahead and pop new bearings in and upgrade your bolts....they are the bottom end weak point....I ran Katech with no problems st all and would recomend them in a heart beat
There's a method to re-use the rod bolts.
I hesitate to do this because the method describes increasing the normal torque angle to compensate for the already stretched bolt.
Sounds like a hit or miss method to me.
For $35 extra, and the fact that you've come this far, I'd rather be sure that those bolts are stretched to the proper degree.
I hesitate to do this because the method describes increasing the normal torque angle to compensate for the already stretched bolt.
Sounds like a hit or miss method to me.
For $35 extra, and the fact that you've come this far, I'd rather be sure that those bolts are stretched to the proper degree.
personally i would never dig that deep into any engine and not put in new bearings, rods and rod bolts. Mark21742 is correct the RODS, rod bolts and stock bearings are the weak link in the LS puzzle. R&R that stuff. if you want to go cheap (and still good quality) get some scat I beams (the come with ARP bolts) and i believe they make them for stock pistons if you call them up and Clevite bearings. since your there you mind as well get hone and put in new rings (make sure you check your bores with a dial bore gauge if you dont take it to a machine shop for the hone).
Well i'm not sure what is up with the engine yet as one cylinder is low on the leak down test. Never built a ls engine so i'm not sure what does and doesn't need replaced.
What about the crank mains? do they require new bolts everytime you take them off? Just trying to figure out what i all need, but i need to dig further into the engine first.
What about the crank mains? do they require new bolts everytime you take them off? Just trying to figure out what i all need, but i need to dig further into the engine first.
Trending Topics
Why the F would you do all that work and be a cheap *** where it really counts? Its possible to reuse them but so is performing brain surgery on yourself... just cause you can doesnt mean you should....
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: PA/MD
If a cylindet comes in low during a leakdown test try squirting a little oil in that cylinder, then do the test again....if your pressure leaks down the same most likely its in need of a valve job. If pressure holds better your probably looking at rings.
i wouldnt even begin to check them, because since i have them out, id naturally know that knew ones were going in. while i had the chance. katech makes the most badass bolt around. do it to it. and throw those others in the trash.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Elk Grove, California
I support the idea to just invest in some new rod bolts... might as well do it now before you go out and have fun and then come home with a thrown rod. Wish I woulda picked up some new rod bolts 
I suggest some ARP's. 
I suggest some ARP's. 
You do not need new main bolts...
Also my opinion on rod bolts is unless you are going to boost, juice, make 500+ , or spin past 6500rpm consistently (road racing) then yea get rod bolts...BUT...if you are only building a nice street machine I wouldn't invest 200 bucks on rod bolts unless you are going to have the power to break them..ls1s are known for their bottom ends! The rod bolts are the "weakest" part just bc everything else is so stout...I say run the stockers but get the bearings for sure!
Also my opinion on rod bolts is unless you are going to boost, juice, make 500+ , or spin past 6500rpm consistently (road racing) then yea get rod bolts...BUT...if you are only building a nice street machine I wouldn't invest 200 bucks on rod bolts unless you are going to have the power to break them..ls1s are known for their bottom ends! The rod bolts are the "weakest" part just bc everything else is so stout...I say run the stockers but get the bearings for sure!
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 460
Likes: 1
From: Elk Grove, California
You do not need new main bolts...
Also my opinion on rod bolts is unless you are going to boost, juice, make 500+ , or spin past 6500rpm consistently (road racing) then yea get rod bolts...BUT...if you are only building a nice street machine I wouldn't invest 200 bucks on rod bolts unless you are going to have the power to break them..ls1s are known for their bottom ends! The rod bolts are the "weakest" part just bc everything else is so stout...I say run the stockers but get the bearings for sure!
Also my opinion on rod bolts is unless you are going to boost, juice, make 500+ , or spin past 6500rpm consistently (road racing) then yea get rod bolts...BUT...if you are only building a nice street machine I wouldn't invest 200 bucks on rod bolts unless you are going to have the power to break them..ls1s are known for their bottom ends! The rod bolts are the "weakest" part just bc everything else is so stout...I say run the stockers but get the bearings for sure!
The big question is why did You throw a rod ,,,,,,,,,,,,because the bearing spun or because a bolt let loose ,,,,,,,,,,,I'd be willing to bet the bearing was the reason or just plain rpm's and power and it broke somewhere between the little and big end .
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 460
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From: Elk Grove, California
Never tore down the block... I assumed it was a weak rod bolt that finally crapped out. And it was a bone stock motor so it wasn't that it couldn't handle a surplus of power.
