baxsom

iTrader: (6)

the water had to go somewhere, the holes in the LS block for the heads are blind holes that do not go into any water passages like the older chevy motors have. otherwise you would need a sealant on them.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

Happened to me before, Cracked the block at bottom of the bolt. A hairline crack. We continued to finish it up. since nothing could be done about it. We ran it under boost an lots of spray. Never had any problems. I would say if it doesnt torque down at the final degree then you will have a problem.

hardcore4sure

iTrader: (1)

Yea that's not good

CWellman

Flippin camaro,
My bolts do torque. I didn't do the stretch torque yet but if I hot this far do you think it should be ok?

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

flippin camaro? wasnt the cars fault

i remember on my first head swap in the car i took tons of time blowing the holes out and even stuffing paper towels down into the holes to make sure there is no coolant.. however when i started tightening the bolts some of them i could feel getting spongy with a couple threads left. Pulled them out and there was still a tiny bit of coolant. You need to go slow and have a feel for it.

Also depending on where it cracked you may be able to use it still.. if it doesnt leak outside the block and doesnt leak into a oil galley you could probably throw some sealant on the bolt and it MIGHT actually be alright.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

You may, or may not have a problem. It is not uncommon, perhaps even normal, to hear popping when torquing the head bolts. It is particularly likely when using ARP head bolts. As others have said however, if there is residual coolant at the bottom of the holes you can crack the block. Unless there is a lot of residual coolant you would not hear that pop until the last few threads. Finally, having the coolant drain quickly from the holes is not conclusive evidence that you have cracked the block because there are instances in which the head bolt holes can intersect with holes drilled horizonally from the back of the block.

See also:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...blem-help.html

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

Cwellman, run it, worse can happen is it end up being a bad block. Which you should just run till its done anyways. But on my 5.7 i had it did it on 2 bolts on the outer bolts of the block. i seen where mine was cracked.

CWellman

I might throw some sealer on the bolt and go for it. If it works then we will try a 150 shot of nitrous

z28241

iTrader: (13)

when u backed the bolt out was it wet at all?

CWellman

Not really. slightly which I know there is a hole at the bottom

Ronny_02_WS6

iTrader: (6)

If you back out the new GM bolts without torquing them down all the way down and the orange loctite go off the bolt do you need new bolts or they're still good if you put new loctite on???

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

might want to buy one head stud for that hole.... worth a shot!

mark21742

Like I said earlier, I've had one stock style bolt break while torquing it, so I would get new bolts

3rdCoastPowerSports

iTrader: (5)

how loud was the pop? did you feel the pop or just hear it?

CWellman

Loud enough to where me an my friend looked at each other with the radio going. there is a hole at the bottom about a quarter of the bottom is gone

mpatton

Put it back together and let us know how it works. All my head swaps have had small pops and never had a hiccup.

CWellman

Did you every get holes or just sound?

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

Need clarification: hole at the bottom of what? quarter of what is gone? Are you talking about the block with the head removed or the view with the head still on?

CWellman

Head removed. at the bottom of the hole where the head bolt ends. there is a hole in the bottom of the bolt hole about 1/4 the size of te bolt hole bottom.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

Which bolt hole is it?