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Clay and PTV?

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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Default Clay and PTV?

I know there a many threads but since it is so important I am hoping to directly answer my questions.

I was hoping to use clay but seems like using the hydraulic lifter will throw the numbers off significantly. Is there a way to overcome the hydraulic lifter, such as a max value that it will compress? I have been busy and somewhat avoiding checking this for the reason of making sure it is all correct. I am finally trying to tackle it and need some advice. Thanks.

I get this overcame and she should be running in a week or less!
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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Solid lifter or checker spring. I made a solid lifter by welding one of my old lifters. Too many variances between lifters and if they actually compress all the way when turning by hand to trust that measurement.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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Damnit!!!!

Where would I get a single solid lifter?

A checker spring is any spring the is fairly light but long enough to hold the valve shut.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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Are the heads on or off? Why not use the dial indicator method and if you don't have that in a pinch you can use feeler gauges.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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Tack welding an old hydraulic is a very good idea. I have found tootsie rolls work better than modeling clay - the wax paper they come in does not stick to the piston. Peel off and measure.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Are the heads on or off? Why not use the dial indicator method and if you don't have that in a pinch you can use feeler gauges.
how do you use feeler gauges to check PTV?
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by custm2500
Damnit!!!!

Where would I get a single solid lifter?

A checker spring is any spring the is fairly light but long enough to hold the valve shut.
if you take an old lifter apart, pull the plunger out and stack it full of washers, and reassemble, it will become "solid"
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
how do you use feeler gauges to check PTV?
You would follow the dial indicator method but use a feeler gauge to measure the movement of the valve from zero lash. In other words, you would start before TDC of the exhaust stroke with check springs at about 20 degrees before the piston reaches the top. Move the crank in 2 degree increments and then use feeler gauges to measure between the rocker tip and the valve stem when you push the valve down so it is in contact with the piston. If the gap is huge, then move to the next step. Doing this carefully (not lifting hard on the rocker tip) should prevent pushing the lifter plunger down and getting a false reading.
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