#7 is gone! Broken ringland
#7 is gone! Broken ringland Back in October I noticed oil coming out of the dipstick tube so I did a compression and leakdown test and #7 showed to be bad. I've just recently had the time to pull the motor. (BTW I had to pull the motor from the top since I have a 4-post lift. Pretty damn easy with the QTP lift plate.)
I pulled the #7 piston and noticed some hair line cracks, luckily no damage to the cylinder walls. Once I pulled the rings, the 2 pieces fell out.
I now have the block all tore down and ready for the machine shop. My plan is to just rebuild with forged components. I wanted to go bigger but that will have to wait.
I pulled the #7 piston and noticed some hair line cracks, luckily no damage to the cylinder walls. Once I pulled the rings, the 2 pieces fell out.
I now have the block all tore down and ready for the machine shop. My plan is to just rebuild with forged components. I wanted to go bigger but that will have to wait.
- Wiseco Pistons (flat-top -3.2cc reliefs 3.905)
- Callies Compstar H-beam Rods (6.125)
- ARP Main stud kit
- Durabond cam bearings
- Clevite Main/Rod Bearings
Fast fuel rails, stock steam tube on front and blocked off on the back. I'll be reworking this with the rebuild.
No question, just noting the event. Thanks!
Not sure, no spray or boost. Just N/A.
Not sure, no spray or boost. Just N/A.
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Most likely high RPM pre-detonation. #7 is usually the first to go. Runs a little hotter & leaner. Connecting rear steam vents isn't a bad idea, but, isn't the best solution. Best solution is to use the highest flowing fuel injector in #7 location. Also, helps to reduce WOT timming a bit.
Injectors get flow tested & marked accordingly. Then, highest flowing injector goes in #7 w/ second highest in #8.
Injectors get flow tested & marked accordingly. Then, highest flowing injector goes in #7 w/ second highest in #8.
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