Ok to start I have the mods in my signature. I am getting ready to do ported ls6 heads, patriot double gold valve springs, katech timing gain, and a xer273hr-14 comp cam, tuned with HP tunes. I am shooting for 400rwhp and I think I should surpass that even with an A4. What's your thoughts? Think this will get me to my goal? Also think its enough to do a 12.0 flat 1/4 mile? Oh yeah it has 3.73's

 

I don't see a converter in your mods

 

That's to come...

 

I wanted to get it dyno'ed first so I can find out my true power curve so I can get the right torque convertor for my motor

 

I have the exact same set up (ported 243, xer273-114) as you down to the a4 and 3.73 gear...don't worry if you have stock converter...my car runs 12.4 all day long on the stock converter so if you get like a 3200-3600 stall you will be at 12.0 easily...that's gonna be my next mod...

You might be able to get a better tune up bc I just sent my PCM out to pcmforless which I know leaves a little power on the table but it was all the cash I had at the time...let me know what your power gains are bc I have never dynoed my car just know that I was running 13.3 before the h/c install so figure about 9 tenths better in the 1320

 

I will probably be 1-3 tenths quicker since I'm at sea level. So I should hit my mark, or be damn close before getting a convertor.

 

converter first. ss3600-ss4000 gets my vote

 

You run an 11.9 with just what you listed in your signature?

 

A converter really helps for sure...we are doing it backwards but Oh well my car runs like a beast and whips plenty of bullshit mod motor mustangs lol...let me know how you do man...only difference is I run comp 918s instead of dual springs...

 

I would hope you could hit mid 11's at sea level. I was running consistent 12.30@111 in arizona when I was bolt ons and a 2800 stall.

 

Well the at apparently ran a 12.7@109 in Atlanta on street tires the way it sits now. I cannot prove that though. So if it was the truth then that's why I was hoping for a 12 flat with the mods. Then drop a bit more with converter. Then when I get bored through on some juice till she blows then do a 6.0 swap. My mods installer said the same combo on a true ls6 motor resulted in 440rwhp with a 6 speed in a c5 z06

 

Ls6 motor ain't nothin special it just has bay to bay breathing oil wise which is only worth a couple hp...main difference is the lightweight valves and the manual Trans which has a lot less parasitic power loss than our big ole slushbox auto transmissions...I estimate my car at like 450-460 crank hp which is a conservative estimate considering with no accessories ls1s make 400 hp stock

 

You need the converter first :facepalm:

 

Converter isn't needed first, will it help? Of course. But that will come late summer. I would have gotten that first but I can't walk from the deal on my cam and heads.

 

You are more likely to hit your goal with the converter than the heads/cam.

And then you won't have to tell people you have a head/cam auto ls1 car still stuck in the 12s.

 

^^ + a cutout (to bypass the 'slowmaster') and you'll drop .3 -.4 sec.

 

3600 stall here.Hand ported 243's, G5x2 Cam, 85mm Typhoon cleaned up a little and I put down 404 rwhp uncorrected @6400 rpms and it was still climbing

 

Flowmaster is definitely going bye-byes. Trying to do a b&b or do a custom setup using an aero turbine muffler. I never realized that a cut out was worth that much on these cars.

 

Your cam is just a bit bigger than mine (224/230, .581/.583 114 lsa) so in reality I should be knocking on 400rwhp.

 

I meant the stall for the .3 -.4 drop. A cutout alone will never gain that much, but will breath better (over the chokemaster). Keep the flowmaster if you like the sound and do an e-cutout for the track.