As far as not being able to get the heads off and on with the studs in place. Both of the 2000 Formulas that I've put them on work just fine. They are a lot easier to work with than those long *** bolts.

 

I took my heads off about 3x's and never did more than loosen the bolts on the top of the studs in the sequence that you should loosen the regular stock or ARP bolts....just lifted off carefully and boom......off.....

 

One reason is to limit wear on the blocks threads.

 

So the agreement is:

- Heads Studs produce less wear of the block.
- A more consistant clamping force.
- You can take the heads off while the engine is still in car, but take you time.
- Don't have to clean out bolt holes since studs are in place when removing heads.
- Cost a lot more.

What are the torque specs for ARP heads bolts and studs? Are they the same or different?

 

http://www.ls1howto.com/

has the troque specs for both bolts and studs

 

Question... if I was gonna soon be making round a bout 500rwhp soon should I swap my bolts for studs? Or ARP bolts?

TIA

 

The reason with studs are better than bolts, is that with studs the force is being applied directly from the top via the nut. With bolts the force is pulled all the way from the block up through the bolt. Simple physics

Keith

 

The heads are less likely to lift, warp and they can be re-used.

I would use studs even if I was install LS1 heads and a 224 cam. Might as well do it ahead of time.

 

Here is another reason why the studs are superior..... on the second to last bolt i had to get out on my gasket leaking problem, the socket started to wear and rounded the bolt some... this was the mid bolt in the very rear. If you have seen this b/f you know that your totally it was all downhill from there... talk about a F*#@ing pain in the ***. Had the motor pulled and built the bottom end since then and am outa $$$$. Car has been sitting now for 4 months...all summer...

 

STUDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I wouldn't have anything else........they are stronger, easier to deal with, and don't eat the threads out of the block........bolts are

 

While we are on +/- 's.....
I thought I read that studs should not be used on a block that had previously had bolts as fasteners. I *think* the ARP studs directions even call for/ recommend a line hone before switching to studs. Evidently the concequences can be quite dire although I have never head of an actual case around here.
Different torque values on different places, etc.... I would prefer to use studs because the bolts are a PITA but there are some worst case scenarios that can occur that keep me thinking bolts. I hope somebody more knowledgeable can elaborate.
+ = studs will never bottom out w/a milled head.

 

You might be thinking about ARP main studs requiring a line hone. The bottom end is not affected for head studs.