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Rebuilt Engine Break-In Time?

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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 05:28 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Chevyboi09
Hey guys, I've just recently had my engine rebuilt with ALL new internals and I am running the same bolt-ons as well. I was wondering what the average break-in time is for a rebuilt LS1. The only aftermarket parts that I have are an MS3 cam w/dual valve spring kit and TSP hardened pushrods, i believe everthing else is stock. These were the only parts that i had purchased myself so I am at least 100% certain of those. Any ways, i was told that I had to break in my cam for at least 500 miles but, I am unsure as to how many miles I should break in the engine its self. Any advice is appreciated. If you need any other information just ask and I'll do my best to asnwer as well as I can. Thanks again guys
You need to get it to operating temp, let it cool down, then do it again. Then put it on the dyno and do 5-6 pulls progressively getting it to a full throttle run at pull #6.
That's it.....it's broken in.
Go race it.

Mainly......Rings are what gets broken in on a new engine.

Or just follow these instructions to a "T":
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TurboBuick6
Load seats rings aka WOT.
lol...so....beat the snot of out it right out of the gate?
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by badazz81z28
lol...so....beat the snot of out it right out of the gate?
A lot of engine builders break in is getting the dyno numbers on the engine. So yeah give her hell.

If you go nice and easy the rings don't apply the correct pressures to the cylinder walls which in turn creates an un even wear between the rings and walls.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 10:23 AM
  #24  
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Personally I've never glazed cylinders or broke springs... I'll fire it up off throttle at idle and be sure oil pressure builds then tap the throttle and hit 2,000-3,000 rpms a few times, and look for leaks then shut it down and let it cool down.
The second time I fire it up and rev between 2,000 and 3,000 rpms for a minute or two then while it is still running check coolant level and burp/ top off if needed, then shut it down.
The third time I back out of the garage and drive it gently down the road for a few miles, bring it back and change the oil.

I try to use the cleanest pan possible to drain the oil into, look at the oil for any abnormal things (might have assembly live and just a slight hint of metalic here and there but shouldn't have much of anything in it)
Refill with fresh oil and blast it up and down the street a few times then let it cool down.
Lastly I'm lucky enough to live next to the mountain so I do a 30 mile blast up and down the mountain ....drive it a few days back forth to work (17 miles one way) change the oil a second time and call it broke in
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:03 AM
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The guy builds bikes but same principle
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboBuick6
The guy builds bikes but same principle
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Yup......I've asked a handful of the top engine builders and they all do it exactly the way he does it or pretty much identical.

You only have 3-4 miles of driving under load to seat the rings properly....and WOT is the only way to seat rings properly.

.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Yup......I've asked a handful of the top engine builders and they all do it exactly the way he does it or pretty much identical.

You only have 3-4 miles of driving under load to seat the rings properly....and WOT is the only way to seat rings properly.

.
Ow wow I must be out of it, didn't even see you posted the link before me lol.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Wow...I'm so nervous for the first crank over....That link doesn't say anything about shutting it off or specifics about street break in.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 02:47 AM
  #29  
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Don't be nervous, Have a strong battery, build up oil pressure by turning the engine over without it firing, connect power back on so it fires up. Let it idle, slowly bring up revs to around 3000rpm, leave it there for a few minutes with the occasional blip of throttle.
Check for any leaks etc.
Much better if on a Dyno as load can be applied for bedding in of new rings,
But take it for a quiet drive, not over revving, take the revs up and down through the gears with short bursts of speed but no hard revving & 'no' constant low rpms.
Within 5-10miles give it some hard pulls but no over revs, just wot through the gears.
20 miles you're done.

Change oil & filter before or around 50miles
Do not use synthetic oil
Keep mineral oil in there with regular changes, hey nothing wrong with non synthetic.
Change to synthetic if you wish around 5-10k
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 09:03 AM
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I do have break in oil. Do I drain it after the 20 miles? Or before I take it out on the road?
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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As a few of us have tried to say, the reving it 2-3000rpm is a FLAT TAPPET thing. It is meant to keep them lubed and spinning in their bores while they mate to their lobe, not an issue with roller cams
Few heat cycles is a spring breakin.
Some heavy load pulls about as soon as you feel safe with the oil pressure and lack of leaks is for ring seating.

In a perfect world maybe you would break the springs in on another motor or breakin this motor with some other springs then swap in the new ones and break them in after the engine is broken in. It is a lot of extra effort I am sure about nobody does.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by badazz81z28
I do have break in oil. Do I drain it after the 20 miles? Or before I take it out on the road?
Do the 20 miles
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #33  
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I run Shell Rotella the first 500 miles.

I bust mine off, let it idle to check for leaks...let the fans come on shut it off.

Let it cool, check all the fluids and take it out on the interstate and vary rpm for 5 minutes at a time. 6th gear@70, 5th gear@70, 4th gear @70 then repeat for about 20 minutes...drive it like that for 100 miles or so.

Change the oil with Rotella and drive it normally, run it hard here and there....regular driving for 400 more miles then switch to Synthetic.
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