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all bore limits
all bore limits does anyone know what is the max nitrous shot an 393 all bore engine can withstand? assuming all the bottom end and internals are forged, will it handle a 300 direct port shot? this is with a 4.1 bore size .thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by 1QWIKZ
does anyone know what is the max nitrous shot an 393 all bore engine can withstand? assuming all the bottom end and internals are forged, will it handle a 300 direct port shot? this is with a 4.1 bore size .thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by 1QWIKZ
does anyone know what is the max nitrous shot an 393 all bore engine can withstand? assuming all the bottom end and internals are forged, will it handle a 300 direct port shot? this is with a 4.1 bore size .thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
just so you know, a 4.1" bore is not a 393......its a 383...
Your still "under round" with your crank size, so I don't believe there will be enough side load to have to worry about cracking a sleeve. Espeacially if it is a MID sleeved block.
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Originally Posted by 1QWIKZ
i forgot to mention it has an off-set crank. the only thing that may be a concern is cracking a sleeve.
The darton sleeve block is MUCH stronger than a stock LS1 block and look at how much people beat on them. If you decide to go big bore, do wet sleeve.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, Ca. /Waco, Tx.
Ecxuse my ignorance, but what is a "wet-sleeve"? I myself had mulled the idea of an all-bore 382 over several times. What does one of these set-ups run "normally"? Not building a budget motor, I want it to last as long as possible, and provide excellent power/driveability...if those two go hand in hand.
What exactly is a Darton Sleeve Block?
Thanks,
Jason
What exactly is a Darton Sleeve Block?
Thanks,
Jason
Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
then its not really an "all bore" engine
The darton sleeve block is MUCH stronger than a stock LS1 block and look at how much people beat on them. If you decide to go big bore, do wet sleeve.
The darton sleeve block is MUCH stronger than a stock LS1 block and look at how much people beat on them. If you decide to go big bore, do wet sleeve.
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Yes the sleeves can handle it just fine. They are no different then spraying a 422 with 300. I've sprayed a healthy number of 200 shot passes and also some 300 shot passes on my 382 all bore. The dry sleeves held up great and the block is in good condition. If your ring gaps and total package is good (head studs, tuning, etc.) then everything should hold together nicely. You'll definitely need to service the motor every now and then, 300 is a healthy dose to expect 30,000 miles out of though.
Originally Posted by DERTY
Yes the sleeves can handle it just fine. They are no different then spraying a 422 with 300. I've sprayed a healthy number of 200 shot passes and also some 300 shot passes on my 382 all bore. The dry sleeves held up great and the block is in good condition. If your ring gaps and total package is good (head studs, tuning, etc.) then everything should hold together nicely. You'll definitely need to service the motor every now and then, 300 is a healthy dose to expect 30,000 miles out of though.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Oceanside CA
Originally Posted by Slow98TA
Ecxuse my ignorance, but what is a "wet-sleeve"? I myself had mulled the idea of an all-bore 382 over several times. What does one of these set-ups run "normally"? Not building a budget motor, I want it to last as long as possible, and provide excellent power/driveability...if those two go hand in hand.
What exactly is a Darton Sleeve Block?
Thanks,
Jason
What exactly is a Darton Sleeve Block?
Thanks,
Jason
Now a Darton-sleeved block is a wet-sleeve design that takes thing a bit further. The trade name for their product is M.I.D (modular intergrated deck). The Darton design removes all the block material in a cylinder bank except the four sides. Their sleeves not only replace the old ones, it actually creates a new deck. The new sleeves are "located" by means of the sleeve base pressing into the main-bearing web (which has been machined to accept it), with the tops of the sleeves obtaining stability by precision fitment against each other, locating pins, and the four walls. The sleeve tops are not round on the O.D., but basically square so that they interlock. Additionally, the top of each sleeve has a lip with holes in the bottom edge that allow coolant to flow around the very top of the sleeve where the top piston ring would reside near TDC. This additional cooling of the "fire-ring" helps lower cylinder temps where the are the greatest.
I included a pic that hopefully will help.
Everybody seems to say "go with the wet sleeves". I have certainly had my fair share of issues and still am with the dry sleeved blocks but has anybody really put a beating on a wet sleeve block yet to be able to back up their reccomendation? I have talked to Steve from Race Engine Development about his blocks and process and it sound good but nobody has really put the thing to the test. We all know the process will yeild a very robust block when used in multiple other block platforms but how about in the LS1. I am considering trying one and giving it the beating of a lifetime but I have so much invested in the dry sleeve block right now (pistons/bushing/machining) I just cannot swing it yet.
Chime in if there is actually some imperical data out there.
Tom
Chime in if there is actually some imperical data out there.
Tom