Forged Crank and Rods for 5.3
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From: Iowa
Forged Crank and Rods for 5.3 Summit Racing does not list a Forged Crank for a 5.3 Any help finding one would be great. Im very new to this so also any tips would be nice IE Cam, Rods, Pistons. Im putting a D1SC on it with a blow through Carb. Im open to all ideas bc I have no idea on what set up would be best. The only rock solid ideas so far are the blow through and the D1SC. Thanks
Are you looking to stay stock stroke, or go larger? We offer a few different brands that will work with your setup.
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Thread Starter
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From: Iowa
Thread Starter
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From: Iowa
The block looks good so I do not need to bore it over any. I would like to keep the walls as thick as I can. Im use to SBC that needed some block work to allow for a bigger stroke. IE clearing for a stroker crank. Do I need to do that for a longer stroke on a 5.3?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Iowa
I would tend to agree with both these guys.
The people pushing stock parts 800-1000hp+ do so knowing they could lose the engine. Some do it figuring a junkyard longblock is cheaper than a forged crank, some like the challenge and notoriety that come with making huge power on stock parts. At any rate anyone saying 500ish is the limit for a stock crank is not to be trusted atall, OEM gen 1 sbc cranks are go to more than that and materials/engineering/machining on the LS series is better.
There are gen 1 and gen 2 cast aftermarket cranks that will break below that but not stock GM V8 stuff.
The stock GM cranks are quite durable. I'm close to 600 hp on a stock LS1 bottom end.
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
I would tend to agree with both these guys.
The people pushing stock parts 800-1000hp+ do so knowing they could lose the engine. Some do it figuring a junkyard longblock is cheaper than a forged crank, some like the challenge and notoriety that come with making huge power on stock parts. At any rate anyone saying 500ish is the limit for a stock crank is not to be trusted atall, OEM gen 1 sbc cranks are go to more than that and materials/engineering/machining on the LS series is better.
There are gen 1 and gen 2 cast aftermarket cranks that will break below that but not stock GM V8 stuff.
The people pushing stock parts 800-1000hp+ do so knowing they could lose the engine. Some do it figuring a junkyard longblock is cheaper than a forged crank, some like the challenge and notoriety that come with making huge power on stock parts. At any rate anyone saying 500ish is the limit for a stock crank is not to be trusted atall, OEM gen 1 sbc cranks are go to more than that and materials/engineering/machining on the LS series is better.
There are gen 1 and gen 2 cast aftermarket cranks that will break below that but not stock GM V8 stuff.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
The stock GM cranks are quite durable. I'm close to 600 hp on a stock LS1 bottom end.
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
