Hi I recently instaled an ls6 ported oil pump from tsp into my current mods . Tsp ms4 cam kit with pushrods and double springs lt headers borla cat ls6 intake 85mm Throttle body k&n cold air intake new timing chain kit and racing fuel pump and 42lb injectors. The car stated fine. With oil press of about 60 psi while cold on idle. And drops to 40 when hot. After driving it a few days it started on same 60 psi while cold . And drops to about 25psi while hot . It does though pick up the 60 psi even when its hot at about 3700 rpm. Am planing to dyno tune the car by 2morow though a bit scared of the oil press . Should I do more trouble shooting before I tune the car and have it flored to the rev limit. Cause I have never exceeded the 4000 rpm since the car is un tuned or does that seems normal or should I do an oil change just in case or could this be an internal bearing damege. In if any one possibly have the same oil pump what is the normal oil press. Note these bods are fitted in a stoke bottom end 99 ls1 camaro. Heads are also stoke thanx.....

 

If you got 25 psi of pressure at idle you are fine...also if its raising with rpm you're in good shape...I have a brand new ls6 pump and it idles at 25-30 psi hot...

 

Untuned = incorrect inj constants, to adjust for the bigger injs??
If so, and U R driving the car, check your oil. Could well be full of fuel, due to over fueling. That could be why the oil press is dropping...

 

Holy **** STOP driving the car!! (If you are)

You're going to wash out your cylinders. All you want to do is start it and check for leaks. THATS IT.

 

No . I am still running the car with stock injectors it drives and idle normal I will install the 42ib injectores today prior to tuning it.

 

Sounds like an oil pump o ring issue. Did you install a double roller timing chain? Is the pump you got designed for the double roller or did you use the shims that should have come with the double roller set to space the pump out? Either way, installing a double roller timing chain changes the placement of the oil pickup tube, moving it forward a little bit. It is easy for the oring to get pinched when installing the tube into the pump. If done while the engine is in the car it is really easy to pinch because you cannot remove the pan completly and reset the pickup tube tighdown. Usually when this issue happens after a cam change or oil pump swap it is the oring. If it leaks it will pull in air and cavitate the oil pump. It will still raise the oil pressure with increased engine rpm. But it is putting air into the oil stream which in turn will destroy every bearing in the engine.

I would remove the oil pump and inspect the oring to the pickup tube. Also if using a double roller timing chain the tube will be slightly cocked. One way to fix this is to use an aftermarket clamp that uses both bolt holes to clamp the pickup tube into the oil pump. I forget where to get those at. I am sure someone on here can point you in the right direction.

That said, one of my engine I built I used a SLP oil pump. Oil pressure was exactly as you describe. The instalation was when the engine was on the stand. I removed the oil pump two times and inspected everything including every bearing. I never did find anything wrong with the engine or pump. I finaly replaced the pump with a Melling High Volume High pressure pump designed for a double roller chain. Oil pressure is perfect now with 40 at idle hot and 60-70 at WOT. The issue was not that the pump was bad but that the engine was built for racing and therfore very loose clearences. The added clearences plus feeding oil to a turbo proved to be too much for the SLP oil pump to keep up with.

I feel your situation is a pinch, leaking oil pump pickup o ring. If not corrected catistrofic engine damage is likely to acure.

Sorry man.