im doing a small build on my daily, i purchase 243 heads and im doing texas speed torquer cam v2. which push rods do i use ?????

 

Lots of guys will come in and say it like they did on my thread lol...gotta measure to be sure.Did you mill your heads at all?

 

Unmilled---- 7.400 with stock gaskets should be correct on a LS7 lifter..

 

without any milling it you SHOULD be good with a 7.400...but that doesn't always mean you WILL be good. it would be wise to measure then order. a PR checker is only $20 and super easy and fast to use.

 

You can measure with a stock length pushrod. I had a PR checker and wound up not even using it.

Search for "Shane's Method"

I'd post it myself but I'm mobile.

 

thanks guys for all the help. i use to be a honda builder but ever since i got my civic stoolen i went american heavy chevy power.

i enjoy building.

okay which tool is it that i need to u to measure.

just for clearance check.

thanks guys once again

 

You want this to check: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7702-1

A dial indicator is much more accurate if you have one.

FWIW, I needed 7.350" pushrods with stock heads and gaskets with LS7 lifters, and 7.325" with the heads milled 0.022". This is for around 0.075" preload.

What lifters are you using?

 

I used 7.400 on the same setup. No issues here. Still doesn't hurt to measure and double check though. Good luck!

 

The TDC method is NOT always accurate. Try the EO/IC method to check
pushrod length. I have posted
directions on this forum numerous times... Here it is again:

FWIW, EVERY cam install I have done using the LS7 lifter with a cam
with greater than .600" lift (read smaller base circle) AND stock heads
w/GM MLS gaskets has taken 7.425" pushrods for ~.050"-.060" preload.
We measure lifter preload on each and every cam install we do. I have
never had a lifter failure nor do we end up with the dreaded "sewing
machine" noise.

Its very simple, If you change ANY of the following:
valve sizes, valve job, head milling, thinner/thicker head gaskets,
decked block, cam with an altered base circle, etc... YOU MUST CHECK
FOR PROPER PUSHROD LENGTH.

I have helped countless numbers of individuals with this process over
the phone, via email, and PM's. I've posted the process on at least 3
occasions.

Here it is again in a nutshell:

1. Using the EO/IC method, get the lifter to the base circle of the
cam.
2. Using a known length pushrod (7.400" is a good start with stock
rockers) run the rocker arm bolt down to zero lash. This is easily
done with your fingers "wiggling" the rocker, the point at which the
"slack" is just gone is zero lash.
3. Set your torque wrench to 22 lb./ft. Tighten the rocker to full
torque and count the number of turns it takes to get there. 1 full
turn wtih a stock 8mm X 1.25 bolt is ~.047" preload as measured at
the pushrod/rocker interface.
4. I normally shoot for 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 turns with stock type lifters
like Comp 850's, LS1, LS7 etc.

For an example, if you use a 7.400" pushrod and come up with 3/4 of a
turn, you will need at least .025" longer pushrod to get into range.
If you end up with 2 1/4 turns, you will need one .025" shorter...

I might not know everything but I will tell you that this method has
worked for me year after year cam swap after cam swap. We average 3
cam swaps a week here so you can do the math.

If you are not familiar with the EO/IC method for determining valve
events in a 4 stroke engine, its very simple:
For a given cylinder as the Exhaust valve is Opening, the intake lift
will be on the base circle of the cam and lash/preload should be
checked for that intake valve.
For a given cylinder as the Intake valve is Closing, the exhaust lifter
will be on the base circle of the cam and lash/preload should be
checked for that exhaust valve.

THIS METHOD ALWAYS WORKS!!!

Check it using the above method and see where you are.

 

Use Shane's method to be sure the preload is right.