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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 09:13 PM
  #21  
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Hugger,

Imperial Beach, Just shoot me an email erick@siklife.com and will go and terrorize some rice.

erick


ps thanks for the cam update the med looks good for me as well. talk to you soon.

late
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 02:53 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by DenzSS
The best examples IMO of the high average power camshafts are the TR224 and its derivatives. There are several other camshafts that fit this bill, it just depends on the design. Generally, they don't go any higher than 226-228 degrees of duration at .050".

Examples of the high peak power camshafts are the 230+ duration camshafts. The new TREX, the larger G5 cams, etc. Personally, for most applications I find the largest of the newest batch of cams to be a very silly choice. Very few people have their cars designed to take advantage of power in a very narrow range.

I think most people around here are missing the point that their cars are street cars, not race cars. Race cars tend to use high peak power designs that produce high amounts of HP within a limited range. In general, they are not fun to drive on the street, require steep gearing, and very good drivers.

People have been building fun, fast street cars for years. The method remains the same. Produce a lot of torque, keep the RPM below 6500, and make the curve as flat as possible across the board. With a lot of average power, it does not take an excellent driver to run good, consistent times. If you shift a little early, no big deal...the power is still there. Your parts last longer and it is a hell of a lot of fun to drive. I'm sure everyone has seen a car that runs everything from low 11s to mid-12s. No consistency, but the driver occasionally pulls off a really fast run. If everything is perfect, it runs like a rocket. If it isn't, it runs like a bolt-on car.

Most people around here have 3500#+ cars that spend 90% of their time on the street. We need to really consider that when we talk about camshaft selection.

Unfortunately, high peak numbers on the dyno sell camshafts.
Hey man I like your honesty. I was sold on the TSP 231/237 cam but I talked to a tuner around here who was saying that its kinda funny those cams can post big #'s but not make enough torque to spin a tire LOL

I've just about decided on a TR224, I'm still doing research to make sure that's what I want. I'll be installing it with a set of heads (that's a whole nother set of research there 5.3 v/s LS6 ) My car already has 4.10 gears, will that hurt or help with a 224 cam setup??
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 09:45 AM
  #23  
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4.10s work very with with the TR224. One of my favorite cars is a 99 Formula with a tr224, Absolute Speed Stage II 241 heads, and 3.73s. It is a really fun car.

Your tuner was spot on.
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 09:39 PM
  #24  
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For me i am going with the Comp XER 220/561 @ 114.
Perfect combo for my Yank 3500 & my 323's. My car is also driven daily with 140K on the clock.
Stealthy, yet very good mid/high rpm's. Should get around 370 @ the wheels. Anyone run this set up?
Have done alot of research. I am an older guy.
Just want to hang with the Z06's for a little while....
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 10:44 PM
  #25  
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How bad would a 228/228-588/588-112 with stage 1.5 heads be for A4/w3.23s for a daily driver. I want power but I don't want my power band to be at 7000 rpms either. My car has 40000 on it right now and I would like to keep the motor in it for as long as I can. I got a really go deal on the cam from a local guy so thats why I bought it. My car is 90/10 street/strip would this be a waste of time to put this cam in?
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 02:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1ORANGEWS6
How bad would a 228/228-588/588-112 with stage 1.5 heads be for A4/w3.23s for a daily driver. I want power but I don't want my power band to be at 7000 rpms either. My car has 40000 on it right now and I would like to keep the motor in it for as long as I can. I got a really go deal on the cam from a local guy so thats why I bought it. My car is 90/10 street/strip would this be a waste of time to put this cam in?
No it wouldn't be a waste of time. I love my cam. I want heads now. Maybe a shot of n2o in the future. My car has 80K miles on it and I love driving it.
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 06:52 PM
  #27  
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I wanted a 224/224-563/563-114 cam but someone made me a good deal on the 228/228 cam. Would this cam be too big for my setup? I have 1.5 heads with whats in my sig. I know this may sound like a stupid question but here goes. Would I need to change my Vig 3600 for a tighter smaller stall for a bigger cam so it wouldn't be so loose down low? My gas milage sucks now I could only imagine what it would be like after H/C install.
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 06:54 PM
  #28  
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Also how much more maintenance will I have to do over my stock vs the 228 cam?
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 06:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 1ORANGEWS6
I wanted a 224/224-563/563-114 cam but someone made me a good deal on the 228/228 cam. Would this cam be too big for my setup? I have 1.5 heads with whats in my sig. I know this may sound like a stupid question but here goes. Would I need to change my Vig 3600 for a tighter smaller stall for a bigger cam so it wouldn't be so loose down low? My gas milage sucks now I could only imagine what it would be like after H/C install.
No the cam is not too big for your set up. It is probably about perfect.

You shouldn't need to change your stall either. I wouldn't mind having a 3600 stall in my car..

Give up on the gas milage. It is gone as soon as you add the cam. Highway might still be decent but city will suck.
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 1ORANGEWS6
Also how much more maintenance will I have to do over my stock vs the 228 cam?
You will need springs for sure. You probably need to get push rods too. My personal opinion is I would rather have the double springs incase one brakes you have a back up. I have only put about 3000 miles on my cam so maintenance is just the same as stock. The thing that I am hearing from people is you might have to change your springs after 15 to 20K miles. I don't know for sure yet.
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