98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

I pulled the drivers side head tonight to chase down a head gasket leak and I found it... I also found the inside of one chamber beat up pretty good. Another piston has a decent eyebrow. Recently replaced the valve springs but the damage was done. All the cylnder wallls are looking good. Let me know if you think these pistons are ok to use. Looking at a 125 shot this summer but am now hesitant. Heads will be ported, re worked and milled. If not, replaced.

I'm not interested in pulling the motor if I don't have to.

EastTn6.0

Now that i see yours, I dont feel so bad about mine. I would run it til it quits. Thats what im gonna do. If you decide to replace you will probably end up buying rods $300, pistons and rings $750. While you got it out you will probably bore it with new cam, crank, and rod bearings. Or you could run it and it not cost you anything but head gaskets and bolts. But I would replace that valve while yo have the head off. My .02

Blackbird-WS6

iTrader: (15)

how was the car running and how many miles on the motor??

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

Motor runs strong. Compression is 180-185 in all cylinders. Leakdown results were great. I'm thinking about de-burring the piston top somehow to help lessen hot spots. If I had to guess, I'd say an electode broke off at some point. I'll have the other head off soon. Hopefully I won't find anymore suprises.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I'd yank it and load it with some forged stuff.

This way you can run it, not run it until it breaks. When it breaks, you might have more carnage than you would care for.

EastTn6.0

If you yank it you will see that its cheaper to buy a shortblock. Maybe sale this motor to recover some money. But if it was running good, id chance it. That detonation might have happened 10,000 miles ago.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

The picture on the right, crank that piston top the top and take another picture.

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

Stay run till motor quit..

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

Cranked both pistons TDC. New pics attached. Passenger side is fine.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

second one looks like it just has carbon build up, first one you can try to deburr it some but those hot spots will cause issues with the bottle.

Blackbird-WS6

iTrader: (15)

is the top ring land on the first pic cracked some?? looks like on the very edge

EricYJ-TA

iTrader: (10)

x2 pull it and put forged parts in it.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

Tape everything off really good around the piston with detonation. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and look in the paint section for these thin plastic pieces that are made to go between baseboard and the carpet when you are painting. Bend that around the piston and slip it down until it contacts the top ringland. While the piston is at the top. Then clean it up. The plastic will make sure you don't damage the block. Just smooth out the top of the piston. Done that numerous time on Suzuki motorcycles when I was racing those. You also need to look at that cylinder on the cylinder head and smooth the head out as well. Again taping off the sealing surface that contacts the head gasket. I would run it.

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

I'd love to put forged parts in however this is a 98 budget car and I'm planning new heads, gaskets, bolts, valve covers, coil brackets, oil pump, AC compressor, lifters, trays, timing kit, and I'm thinking about replacing the TR224 cam as I see a lobe with faint score mark on it. All the lifters look perfect but they're getting swapped anyway. I'm thinking nitrous is a no go at this point. Just don't have the $$$ for a forged build.

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking at possibly refresing the bottom end and swapping for some forged pistons and ARP rod bolts. Any recomondations in the north GA area?

EastTn6.0

I think Wiseco makes a Junkyard Dog series of forged pistons for stock rods. Probably not many people used them yet. They are very new according to Texas Speed. Check'em out http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/Automotive/Chevrolet.pdf