missinmym6

I've got some questions about doing a cam install. The car is a 01 SS with 62k on the clock, full bolt ons (car in my sig). The cam is going to be the TSP 233-239 on a 112LSA with the springs and pushrods to match, stock 241's for now, 243's are on the way for a summer project.
1. I was planning to do a HV oil pump and timing chain. Is this 100% necessary with the miles I've got on the car?
2. Assuming I need to do a timing chain, do I go with a double roller? I've seen where some people have had issues with clearance when running a UD pulley. But not positive if this is true.
3. Whats the limits on the stock clutch? I know I should make somewhere in the 400-415whp range, I'm assuming a clutch is needed to really drive the car. But can I tune it without a clutch for right now?
4. Besides a tune, am I missing anything? I wanna make this as painless as possible.

I did some searches for all of this. I found some of what I needed to know, but thought maybe someone could tell me if I'm missing anything...

Thanks for the help.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

I can't comment on the clutch, but I'm putting in that same cam on Tuesday. I left the stock oil pump since I have good oil pressure, so if yours is fine, you can leave it or swap it, its personal preference at that point. I would swap the timing chain, just for peace of mind. You can do an LS2 chain, but I got a nice rollmaster double, for the added peace of mind.

Yun Gunz

My stock in my 99 seemed to handle my heads and cam for awhile. 20k miles or so on the car at the time. First hit on a good tire it went bye bye. With more miles on yours it could be iffy. I am using a LS7 clutch and it doing everything I need. Even if the clutch slips, the tuner should be able to get you something base to get you by.

WS6ICK2k

Springs, pushrods, Oil pump should be OK but it is a peace of mine type of thing, I personally would just incase. Look into a trunion kit for the rockers, the increase in lift of the cam could cause the stock rockers to spit needle bearings throughout your engine. Its a simple install you can do them with basically a bench vice. Dual chain isn't completely necessary for your hp you have in mind. I would do lifters when you pull the heads off, but not with just the cam.

If your still on the factory stock clutch, it will most likely go in the near future, but hey if its not slipping I wouldn't replace it yet...

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

I am not a big believer in dual chains, a very good heavy duty single is all that is really needed. Scoggy sells a helluva nice N Motion setup for 70 bucks. Do a melling HV pump while you are at it. This is all good insurance and peace of mind. The stock clutch isn't going to live long, but might as well keep it till you start to have issues.

https://sdparts.com/details/n-motion/sd7140

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Pulling the front of the engine apart is a chore. Despite only having 60K miles on the clock, its a pain to even think about breaking into it more than once. Most people swap out the chain and pump not for necessity but more like peace of mind knowing the parts are new. I would swap the parts out...In fact I would wait and do the heads at the same time. I would want new lifters sitting on those lobes in addition, I would not want to run used lifters to run new ones on it later. Again, another peace of mind thing.

missinmym6

All good advise... my primary question about the clutch was "will it hold" because my tuner was going to dyno tune the car. But, I guess I can get him to do a "get me by" tune and then go back for the dyno stuff.

My 243's will be here this weekend, I guess that brings me to the infamous question... What kind of cost is really involved in doing a heads and cam swap? There's gaskets, lifters, trays (?) ect when do get into it that deep. I'm just a SBC guy. I've never built a LS motor, so it's kinda foreign territory.

I guess if I do cam only, I can run with a HD single roller and HV oil pump. I run 60+ PSI basically all the time with the stock pump, so it's kinda hard to convince myself to do that. But, like you all said, it's all about peace of mind.

Thanks for the help.

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

if you do heads and cam, then head gaskets (GM MLS), GM head bolt kit (2x), trays (x4), ls7 lifters, crank balancer bolt, water pump gaskets (2x)...You may or may not need a timing cover gasket and seal. Mine looked fine, but I replaced them anyways...all the little **** really does add up, way more than you would initially suspect.

missinmym6

...all the little **** really does add up, way more than you would initially suspect.[/QUOTE]

THAT is what I'm worried about. I'm on a bit of a budget at this point (college sucks). But thats why I wanted to wait till summer time to get my heads done/ put on. In the meantime, I was gonna have em worked at my local machine shop and enjoy just the cam.

smws6ta

iTrader: (5)

Once you get everything in start saving for a new rear.....

Waiting to do it with the heads saves you in tuning cost. Paying $500 twice hurts...unless you can make some deal with your tuner.


Agree with new oil pump, you can also get a Melling 10295 pump that will work with the setup, it's better then stock. With the 10296 it's suggested to run a truck oil filter and increase the oil to 6 qrts. The 10296 HV/HP can empty the oil pan quick at high rpms.

Also can't stress this enough, measure for correct push rod length after you do you're cam. Don't assume that because you're using the same heads the push rods will be ok. Also get the chrome moly PR's. Comp Cams push rod checker is about $20. You'll need the 6.7 checker.

smws6ta

iTrader: (5)

For the clutch I'd recommend LS7 clutch kit and a Tick MC installed together at same time. It's a good clutch, way better then OEM LS1. Can handle 550ftlbs tq which is more then what you are going to have with your plans.

The reason I said install the Tick MC at the same time as with a new LS7 clutch install IIRC it has to due with how the LS7 self adjusts as it wears on, while you could wait to do the MC later it has had problems with the LS7. As far as I know this is only with the LS7 clutch kit, others like Monster or SPEC, I haven't heard any issues.

missinmym6

I knew about the pushrod deal. I fully intend to check them. The TSP kit has hardened pushrods, which I plan to order in the 7.4 length.

As far as a clutch, I was really leaning towards the RAM setup TSP sells. I could be wrong, but I don't think the LS7 is gonna hold when I spray. But for 370, the RAM it is supposed to hold 650TQ. I WILL spray the car in the future (100-125 shot). So I figured I'd throw a clutch in the car that will hold when I do get around to spraying it. I know myself well enough to know that I'm gonna want to go even faster. Does anyone know anything about the RAM kit? I posted a link to it below...

I've got plans to buy a rear this summer. BEFORE I go to the track. My 10 bolt is on borrowed time as it is.

Here is the RAM link: http://texas-speed.com/p-3544-ram-cl...tq-rating.aspx

Thanks again guys.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

My buddy uses a monster clutch, his lasted 26K miles, including two 2.5k mile trips from NC to Nevada and back, plus a **** ton of track time with sticky tires and a 600 hp LS. Just in case you wanted more options besides the LS7 clutch. (He had a monster 4, it held his power just fine, so it should hold yours even with spray)