Looking for a good DD cam suggestions?
#41
What kind of MPG were you getting out of that cam?
Predator-z, if I were to get 99Bluz28's recommended cam with a ls2 timing chain/gear set would I be ok to line them up Dot to Dot? I'm trying to make sure I do everything correct the first time so I don't have to do it again. So sorry for all the questions guys I'm still learning.
Predator-z, if I were to get 99Bluz28's recommended cam with a ls2 timing chain/gear set would I be ok to line them up Dot to Dot? I'm trying to make sure I do everything correct the first time so I don't have to do it again. So sorry for all the questions guys I'm still learning.
#42
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I mean if degreeing is only to verify that your cam grind is as it should be.... how often is it not? Is the manufacturing process of cams bad enough that we can't really rely on the grind?
#43
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Frost would be my first option of who to take the car too, but seeing he is over 6 hours away that is out of the question. I'm looking to order the cam and all of the parts this week guys. Got a new job this week so not exactly sure when it'll get put it. Talked to TSP today and he suggested the 228R to me, but said the Torquer V2 would do fine. I'm having a horrible time trying to decide on the cam! Lol, there is one thing that has me worried about installing the cam though; that being degreeing it. Wouldn't you just line up the timing marks to install it? Making sure the engine is at TDC?
If you don't have time to do it yourself let us know. Typically we have you out the door with a before/after full dyno & street tune, fluids, gaskets, springs, pushrods, custom cam, tax, the whole 9 yards for $2200
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#44
Depends on who is grinding it. i have told many customers to get cams verified. Granted we are talking SR 500+ CI stuff.
#45
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I've never had one that was much more than a degree off but it is a good idea to check.
Last edited by badassracing; 06-04-2013 at 07:44 PM.
#46
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Well guys I went ahead and made the move drained my bank account and ordered the parts. I ended up going with the custom cam recomended by 99Bluz28 (thanks by the way man) LSL 227 intake lobs and LXL 230 exhaust lobes on a 111lsa with a ICL of 108.
#49
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Thanks for the help so far guys, I'll keep you guys posted. Might even snap a few pics when I put it in. 99bluz28 you need post up a video of that cam idling, the wait is gonna kill me!
#50
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Okay, here's the video/audio clip I shot tonight, idle is currently at 950rpm.
BTW my car is what I would consider fairly quiet for having H/C/I, ORY-pipe an LT headers.
http://s523.photobucket.com/user/RDB...043c3.mp4.html
BTW my car is what I would consider fairly quiet for having H/C/I, ORY-pipe an LT headers.
http://s523.photobucket.com/user/RDB...043c3.mp4.html
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 06-06-2013 at 11:37 PM.
#53
OP, did you already order the oil pump? If not, you can get the melling 10296 for about $25 dollars more and IIRC, it flows about 8% more volume. If you already ordered, the 10295 would also work just fine though.
#54
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yes i have already ordered all the parts thanks for the info though! My car now has sweet thunder duals with an x pipe muchhhh better sound then the y-pipe and LM1.
#56
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Quick help
Do I need to buy a new cam retainer plate seeing how the old one has gasket like material on it? Also how should I go about putting the crank pulley back on? I don't really want to use the factory bolt in fear of screwing up the crank threads. Any one sell a reasonably priced install tool? Oh yeah all the parts are here cam will be going in come next Friday!
#57
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Here's the tool to get:
http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...3-p-10976.html
As long as the dog bone shaped seal on the retainer is not damaged, no you don't need to replace it.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...3-p-10976.html
As long as the dog bone shaped seal on the retainer is not damaged, no you don't need to replace it.
#58
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UPDATE with pictures!
Well guys today I started the install just thought I'd share the progress
Removing the radiator and what not.
Timing cover and all that good stuff removed.
Then finally how she sits right now, I was kindly amazed how the lifters just sat up in the lifter trays (I think that's what they are called?) once I spun the cam over a few times I have some wooden dowels I will be using to hold them up of course.
Here's my current work station, those saber lights come in real handy!
I plan on getting it all wrapped up tomorrow, I will keep this thread updated with some pictures though. I'm dreading the valve spring install to be honest but hopefully it will all go smooth.
Removing the radiator and what not.
Timing cover and all that good stuff removed.
Then finally how she sits right now, I was kindly amazed how the lifters just sat up in the lifter trays (I think that's what they are called?) once I spun the cam over a few times I have some wooden dowels I will be using to hold them up of course.
Here's my current work station, those saber lights come in real handy!
I plan on getting it all wrapped up tomorrow, I will keep this thread updated with some pictures though. I'm dreading the valve spring install to be honest but hopefully it will all go smooth.
#60
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Well I got her all finished up today! Took it for a spin alittle while ago, the cam sure did make the car a lot more peppy. Here's a few shots from today.
out with the old in with the new
BTR Double springs
I will try to take a video and post it up for you guys, it definitely has a nice lope to it. I appreciate all the help with the install guys couldn't have done it without your advice and guidance! Now just to get in scheduled in for a dyno tune. Currently running a mail order from PCM of NC.
out with the old in with the new
BTR Double springs
I will try to take a video and post it up for you guys, it definitely has a nice lope to it. I appreciate all the help with the install guys couldn't have done it without your advice and guidance! Now just to get in scheduled in for a dyno tune. Currently running a mail order from PCM of NC.