Pushrod/cam advice
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 10
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Pushrod/cam advice I am picking up a STOCK low mile 2001 A4 Trans Am this week. This is my 2nd LSx car, my first was an 05 GTO (headers/cam/bolt ons/DRs)
The plan for this TA is to make it quick on a budget (whoda thunk?), I don't really care about "streetability" even though it will spend most of it's time on the street.
Plans are 4.10s, 4000 stall, cheap longtubes (pacesetter or something) O/R Y, cutout, 15" Race stars with radials, and a cam. Heads MAY come down the road. MMs, LCAs, Tranny cooler will go on with the other goodies.
I plan to do all the install myself (except the gears), whereas I bought my GTO with the headers already on and had a shop do the cam/clutch.
Can anyone tell me if they've had a Torquer V3 or MS4 on stock heads with just changing pushrods and valve springs, if the stock length pushrods work? It seems like a total pain in the *** to potentially buy multiple pushrod lengths, or tear down and measure and then wait to order the right length. Why would 7.4 potentially NOT work? If the problem would just be the "sewing machine" noise, I don't really care as long as it's not detrimental to the engine.
Also, is there any reason I should see a PTV issue with either cam on stock heads/timing set?
Thanks
The plan for this TA is to make it quick on a budget (whoda thunk?), I don't really care about "streetability" even though it will spend most of it's time on the street.
Plans are 4.10s, 4000 stall, cheap longtubes (pacesetter or something) O/R Y, cutout, 15" Race stars with radials, and a cam. Heads MAY come down the road. MMs, LCAs, Tranny cooler will go on with the other goodies.
I plan to do all the install myself (except the gears), whereas I bought my GTO with the headers already on and had a shop do the cam/clutch.
Can anyone tell me if they've had a Torquer V3 or MS4 on stock heads with just changing pushrods and valve springs, if the stock length pushrods work? It seems like a total pain in the *** to potentially buy multiple pushrod lengths, or tear down and measure and then wait to order the right length. Why would 7.4 potentially NOT work? If the problem would just be the "sewing machine" noise, I don't really care as long as it's not detrimental to the engine.
Also, is there any reason I should see a PTV issue with either cam on stock heads/timing set?
Thanks
Last edited by cammed05pbm; Jun 3, 2013 at 09:15 PM.
best piece of advice is to get a Comp Cams pushrod checker
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4634
It will save you from needlessly spending money on different lengths of push rods
What kind of heads do you have?
Those 2 cams shouldn't have PTV issues with 243/5.3 heads as long as you are still stock. Meaning no milling. If you do mill the heads then check PTV is a must.
With the MS4 you'll need to get use to buying valve springs. It's been know to wear them out around 25-30k miles depending on how hard you drive the car. Not saying it's a bad choice, Hell it was going to be my cam choice till I blew up my LS1.
Check out Tick Performance too, Martin is a great guy that knows his stuff.
Timing chain - at the least upgrade to a LS2 chain.
4.10's - not sure what the Goat has for a rear end but if it's the same POS 10 bolt as in the Camaro's/Trans Am's then start a rear end fund and save for a better rear. DON'T waste $$ on a stock 10 bolt.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4634
It will save you from needlessly spending money on different lengths of push rods
What kind of heads do you have?
Those 2 cams shouldn't have PTV issues with 243/5.3 heads as long as you are still stock. Meaning no milling. If you do mill the heads then check PTV is a must.
With the MS4 you'll need to get use to buying valve springs. It's been know to wear them out around 25-30k miles depending on how hard you drive the car. Not saying it's a bad choice, Hell it was going to be my cam choice till I blew up my LS1.
Check out Tick Performance too, Martin is a great guy that knows his stuff.
Timing chain - at the least upgrade to a LS2 chain.
4.10's - not sure what the Goat has for a rear end but if it's the same POS 10 bolt as in the Camaro's/Trans Am's then start a rear end fund and save for a better rear. DON'T waste $$ on a stock 10 bolt.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
best piece of advice is to get a Comp Cams pushrod checker
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4634
It will save you from needlessly spending money on different lengths of push rods
What kind of heads do you have?
Those 2 cams shouldn't have PTV issues with 243/5.3 heads as long as you are still stock. Meaning no milling. If you do mill the heads then check PTV is a must.
With the MS4 you'll need to get use to buying valve springs. It's been know to wear them out around 25-30k miles depending on how hard you drive the car. Not saying it's a bad choice, Hell it was going to be my cam choice till I blew up my LS1.
Check out Tick Performance too, Martin is a great guy that knows his stuff.
Timing chain - at the least upgrade to a LS2 chain.
4.10's - not sure what the Goat has for a rear end but if it's the same POS 10 bolt as in the Camaro's/Trans Am's then start a rear end fund and save for a better rear. DON'T waste $$ on a stock 10 bolt.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4634
It will save you from needlessly spending money on different lengths of push rods
What kind of heads do you have?
Those 2 cams shouldn't have PTV issues with 243/5.3 heads as long as you are still stock. Meaning no milling. If you do mill the heads then check PTV is a must.
With the MS4 you'll need to get use to buying valve springs. It's been know to wear them out around 25-30k miles depending on how hard you drive the car. Not saying it's a bad choice, Hell it was going to be my cam choice till I blew up my LS1.
Check out Tick Performance too, Martin is a great guy that knows his stuff.
Timing chain - at the least upgrade to a LS2 chain.
4.10's - not sure what the Goat has for a rear end but if it's the same POS 10 bolt as in the Camaro's/Trans Am's then start a rear end fund and save for a better rear. DON'T waste $$ on a stock 10 bolt.
The TA has stock 241s I don't plan on milling. Might go ported 243s or something later.
I'm actually starting to think the ms3 is the way to go. I just don't understand why a stock length pushrod wouldn't (necessarily) work. But I'll get the checker I guess.
Thanks for the tip on Tick also
Stock length usually doesn't work because almost all aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle than the stock cam, so you need a longer pushrod. When you start adding milled heads and a new cam etc etc enough variables have changed to the point that measuring is the only option. I measured mine and next day shipped the set I needed. Best way to do it IMO
