AFR 215cc
408 isnt much more than a 383. In fact, you could sell your stock bottom end off and probably make up the cost difference... especially if you used a junkyard 6L block. The only problem is the added 100lbs of weight up front.
402/416 would be better, but the price becomes a big difference.
And the 227/231 is with the Mamofied option I believe. You have more PtV clearance with AFR heads than stock, so you should be able to go bigger. It's when the 2.055" valves are installed as part of the Mamofication process, PtV sucks. And if you're going to flycut (which really isnt that terrible) just go with something really healthy. A 235/242 112 or so would be nice. Mamo will tell you you dont need it, but remember, LG did 500rwhp with AFR 205s and a 234/242 112. Overlap makes power even with AFR heads.
402/416 would be better, but the price becomes a big difference.
And the 227/231 is with the Mamofied option I believe. You have more PtV clearance with AFR heads than stock, so you should be able to go bigger. It's when the 2.055" valves are installed as part of the Mamofication process, PtV sucks. And if you're going to flycut (which really isnt that terrible) just go with something really healthy. A 235/242 112 or so would be nice. Mamo will tell you you dont need it, but remember, LG did 500rwhp with AFR 205s and a 234/242 112. Overlap makes power even with AFR heads.
408 isnt much more than a 383. In fact, you could sell your stock bottom end off and probably make up the cost difference... especially if you used a junkyard 6L block. The only problem is the added 100lbs of weight up front.
402/416 would be better, but the price becomes a big difference.
And the 227/231 is with the Mamofied option I believe. You have more PtV clearance with AFR heads than stock, so you should be able to go bigger. It's when the 2.055" valves are installed as part of the Mamofication process, PtV sucks. And if you're going to flycut (which really isnt that terrible) just go with something really healthy. A 235/242 112 or so would be nice. Mamo will tell you you dont need it, but remember, LG did 500rwhp with AFR 205s and a 234/242 112. Overlap makes power even with AFR heads.
402/416 would be better, but the price becomes a big difference.
And the 227/231 is with the Mamofied option I believe. You have more PtV clearance with AFR heads than stock, so you should be able to go bigger. It's when the 2.055" valves are installed as part of the Mamofication process, PtV sucks. And if you're going to flycut (which really isnt that terrible) just go with something really healthy. A 235/242 112 or so would be nice. Mamo will tell you you dont need it, but remember, LG did 500rwhp with AFR 205s and a 234/242 112. Overlap makes power even with AFR heads.
Ya a 408 would be cool and I considered doing a 383 also. But I'm already spending enough on this build for now. I would really like to fly cut and go with bigger cam tho....do u know how much it might cost to have it done? And do u know if it can be done with motor in car? If I did the fly cutting I'd go with whatever tony says. But I would want a cam like 233/236 or something along those lines. I'm not looking for a cam too big. But let me know about the flycutting. I'd like to know more
It can be done in the car. Just use your old heads and get the flycutting tool and bolt your heads down, set the stop for depth (.080" would be plenty) and cut the reliefs (do it by hand so you don't mess your piston up).
The tool actually fits where the old valves were. Just gotta buy the right sized depending on the valve size.
And make sure no metal shavings get into the engine. So tape everything up really good. Then just go down each piston and center the piston at TDC and cut.
You would probably only need to do the intake, so you're looking at cutting, and re-positioning 8 times. Should take about 1.5-2 hours if you take your time and double-check everything and clean effectively. What takes time is getting the heads on and off (just bolt down around the piston being worked) and repositioning the tool and pistons for each cut. If you do exhaust, you can bet on it being closer to 3 hours. You will get faster as you do it until you get to the rear of the engine. The cowl is a pain in the ***.
The tool actually fits where the old valves were. Just gotta buy the right sized depending on the valve size.
And make sure no metal shavings get into the engine. So tape everything up really good. Then just go down each piston and center the piston at TDC and cut.
You would probably only need to do the intake, so you're looking at cutting, and re-positioning 8 times. Should take about 1.5-2 hours if you take your time and double-check everything and clean effectively. What takes time is getting the heads on and off (just bolt down around the piston being worked) and repositioning the tool and pistons for each cut. If you do exhaust, you can bet on it being closer to 3 hours. You will get faster as you do it until you get to the rear of the engine. The cowl is a pain in the ***.
It can be done in the car. Just use your old heads and get the flycutting tool and bolt your heads down, set the stop for depth (.080" would be plenty) and cut the reliefs (do it by hand so you don't mess your piston up).
The tool actually fits where the old valves were. Just gotta buy the right sized depending on the valve size.
And make sure no metal shavings get into the engine. So tape everything up really good. Then just go down each piston and center the piston at TDC and cut.
You would probably only need to do the intake, so you're looking at cutting, and re-positioning 8 times. Should take about 1.5-2 hours if you take your time and double-check everything and clean effectively. What takes time is getting the heads on and off (just bolt down around the piston being worked) and repositioning the tool and pistons for each cut. If you do exhaust, you can bet on it being closer to 3 hours. You will get faster as you do it until you get to the rear of the engine. The cowl is a pain in the ***.
The tool actually fits where the old valves were. Just gotta buy the right sized depending on the valve size.
And make sure no metal shavings get into the engine. So tape everything up really good. Then just go down each piston and center the piston at TDC and cut.
You would probably only need to do the intake, so you're looking at cutting, and re-positioning 8 times. Should take about 1.5-2 hours if you take your time and double-check everything and clean effectively. What takes time is getting the heads on and off (just bolt down around the piston being worked) and repositioning the tool and pistons for each cut. If you do exhaust, you can bet on it being closer to 3 hours. You will get faster as you do it until you get to the rear of the engine. The cowl is a pain in the ***.
YA your right that don't sound to bad. Def worth it for a bigger cam. I don't really feel comfortable doing it myself...but I know some people that are better that sort of thing than I. So If I can find someone to do it then I'm goin for it. Thanks for the advice u just helped me get a lot closer to my 500rwhp goal
And the 227/231 is with the Mamofied option I believe. You have more PtV clearance with AFR heads than stock, so you should be able to go bigger. It's when the 2.055" valves are installed as part of the Mamofication process, PtV sucks. And if you're going to flycut (which really isnt that terrible) just go with something really healthy. A 235/242 112 or so would be nice. Mamo will tell you you dont need it, but remember, LG did 500rwhp with AFR 205s and a 234/242 112. Overlap makes power even with AFR heads.
That being said I'll be running a 231/238 on a 113+3. We'll see how she does.
Last edited by ckpitt55; Jun 24, 2013 at 11:06 PM.
I decided to just go with the smaller cam for now anyway. In the future I might do a 383 for my next mod but I'm spending as much as I want to for now and I should get some good gains out of this set up
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Verdad Gallardo Idk. But I think my next mod will be a forged LS3 with stock stroke with valve reliefs then go with a larger cam at that point. Or mAybe just an LS2 which woukd be much more cost effective but not as many cubes. Its a toss up. This wont be for a while anyhow.
Jake you're on here posting all the time, in nearly every thread, quite often talking down Mamo's stuff. Tonys credentials are well known. Please give us all an idea what your credentials are so that we might determine whether the words you type should be given consideration. Magazine articles, cylinder heads youve designed, advanced degrees, builds youve done that put up top of the heap power, whatever youve got except number of posts please. Im very curious.
