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Car lost power, knocking after dyno

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Old 07-27-2013, 12:20 PM
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You won't know for sure what it is until you start tear down. Start with removing the valve covers - maybe it's not too bad. Keeping fingers crossed for you!
Old 07-27-2013, 10:00 PM
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Should have been ok to drive as long as you kept the car out of the higher rpms. Good luck to ya.
Old 07-28-2013, 07:15 AM
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Thumbs up My thots..

Originally Posted by Roarin_8
Should have been ok to drive as long as you kept the car out of the higher rpms. Good luck to ya.
exactly.
The engine was on life support when you put the cam in. The dyno took care of the rest.
As I posted... a brg is likely spun...
Old 07-28-2013, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Roarin_8
Should have been ok to drive as long as you kept the car out of the higher rpms. Good luck to ya.
It was driven easy, must have just been tired. But thanks, can always use the luck!
Old 07-28-2013, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
exactly.
The engine was on life support when you put the cam in. The dyno took care of the rest.
As I posted... a brg is likely spun...

I agree, it clearly broke on the dyno as it did nothing but lost power.
What is your opinion on a spun brg, and the motor falling on its face at 5,800 rpms? Would that make since, or was something else wrong with the motor do you think?

Any way that me camming it "incorrectly" could cause the spun bearing, or since I had a very tough valve train, the next weakest link in the motor would have been the brg on over rev? I read everywhere that a lack of oil is a big cause to spinning bearings, I would be at 60 psi on start up, and never drop below 40 warm with the ported ls6 from tsp. Just want opinions, this was my first ever motor "build" if you would call it that.
Old 07-28-2013, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by high impact
You won't know for sure what it is until you start tear down. Start with removing the valve covers - maybe it's not too bad. Keeping fingers crossed for you!
Thanks man! I ended up pulling the covers, and the valve train looks brand new, as I would expect for 400 miles, ha! Still no time to pull the pan, but I will get around to it sometime and will be back on this thread to let everyone know what I find.
Old 07-28-2013, 12:19 PM
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"I agree, it clearly broke on the dyno as it did nothing but lost power.
What is your opinion on a spun brg, and the motor falling on its face at 5,800 rpms?"

Look at the data log from the dyno.
Could have well been the knock setting off spark retard = power drop.
Old 07-29-2013, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
"I agree, it clearly broke on the dyno as it did nothing but lost power.
What is your opinion on a spun brg, and the motor falling on its face at 5,800 rpms?"

Look at the data log from the dyno.
Could have well been the knock setting off spark retard = power drop.

Well, motor didn't begin knocking until the drive back home so I wouldn't think it would of set any sensors off.
Old 08-22-2013, 11:36 PM
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Did you ever tear your engine down?
Old 08-23-2013, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by tyler99
Well, motor didn't begin knocking until the drive back home so I wouldn't think it would of set any sensors off.
Any slight knocking would make the knock sensors trigger to cut timing and you wouldn't be able to hear it, that's the computer's way of protecting the motor.
Old 08-23-2013, 09:03 AM
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I've heard knock while watching the computer pull out timing while logging before. Pinging specifically. It doesn't stop it. It just tries to help.
Old 08-23-2013, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by high impact
Oh my. Why oh why did you drive it 180 miles untuned? After a cam install you have to trailer it to your tuners unless you have the means to load a tune or send the computer out. We just did a cam upgrade on my sons 98 and didn't even like running it to load it on the trailer.

Time to tear down top end and remove oil pan. Keep us posted.
Driving untuned with stock injectors to the tuner is perfectly fine as long as the trims are still turned on and he doesn't go WOT or hits any high map areas. Now, if you changed injectors, then you have to drive there with the stock ones and swap there or swap at home and trailer the car.

The trims will correct back. A cam makes you richer at part throttle (low map) and leaner at higher map areas, which won't matter as long as you stay out of them.



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