goldta78

Ok so some base line information. I'm building an lq4 for my 79 Camaro. I just took the block in to the shop to get it cleaned, and ARP main studs/line hone. $650, I already had the rotating assembly balanced $400. I was told to put in ARP rod bolts in by the machinest. However when I tried to buy them from the speed shop he told me to use the old ones. Since "I won't be using nitrous"
It seems like a lot of money I spent already just to leave the old TTY bolts in.

But I don't see why the torque spec is different for different pistons, because the arp bolts work from 99-2013. So if the bolts are the same why is the torque spec different?

Pistons are stock LQ4 takeouts from a crate motor which was never ran. which have original bolts. I do not know what series they are.

In the manual I have, it says torque to 15 ft. lbs and an additional
60 degrees first design
and 75 for second design
I don't know what design I have

I torqued them to 15, and put 70 degrees on them. So I'm not sure, I think I should just get the ARP rod bolts for it.

If You think I should get the ARP bolts, does anyone have a part # for them.

Thanks guys!

01 Vert ws6

iTrader: (18)

That speed shop doesn't have a clue , put the new rod bolts in

goldta78

Well actually they are pretty big into racing. He has been featured in Hot Rod Magazine multiple times for his race cars. he said, because the motor had never been ran there would be no issue. but I'm not sure what they should be torqued to.

so the score is 2-0 for new bolts

X-Bomb Racing

iTrader: (1)

Make that 3-0

Here, I made it easy for you lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-134-6006-8740-Connecting-Rod-Bolts-Chevy-LS1-Cracked-Rod-4-8L-5-3L-6-0L-6-2L-/390546364661?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aee6098f5&vxp=mtr

goldta78

well, i guess ill just get the new bolts. $100 for insurance isnt bad. is it hard to get the old bolts out of the caps? and what do you torque the arp bolts to?

01 Vert ws6

iTrader: (18)

but have they built ls1 engines , look on here about factory rod bolts breaking , just because they got there name in a paper doesnt make them experts on ls1 engines

allan808

iTrader: (3)

You need to do some research on aftermarket rod bolts and stock rods! From what ive read you cant use them! arp bolts require more torque to clamp, by doing so you may throw the cap off and lead to premature bearing wear or worse! The stock cracked rods can not be line honed.

01 Vert ws6

iTrader: (18)

from what you read , listen I've done it . and checked the rods with a bore gage and jo blocks , and some did move but it was only .0001 thats 1 ten thousands of an inch . those guys that have bearing wear may have put too much prssure on pressing in the bolts .

KCS

iTrader: (20)

You need to do some research as well. The stock rods can be honed for the ARP bolts.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

There is a TSB changing the rod bolt tightening specs. It's still 15 ft lbs, but then 85* for all LS motors from 1997 & up.

The second design rod bolts have a sleeve on them. Or might be stuck in the rod cap.

Russ Kemp

goldta78

so i need to put another 15 degrees on them? my bolts do not come out of the rod cap so does that mean they are second design?

goldta78

they build a lot of engines. he knows almost every part number off the top of his head. Im going to be mostly stock with an edelbrock 7118 and a decnt size lunati cam. he told me to reuse the stock caps

halfhilloa

That speed shop doesn't have a clue

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Take a close look at the rod cap with the bolt backed out, if you can see a thin sleeve you have the 2nd design bolts. Sounds like you have the 2nd design.

And yes, turn them another 15 degrees.

Russ Kemp

goldta78

Well, I just bought this set... So we shall see how goes it. does it come with instructions? they just have a torque spec right? there is no angle meter needed?

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

I also think your factory bolts would have been fine since no cycles but since
you've already bout the ARPs....yes they come with the paperwork showing
the torque specs for either 30 weight oil on the threads or the ARP lube (inc-
luded). A few machine shops I use prefered to acid dip the threads to remove
the black oxide coating, oil on the threads, and EPL (extreme pressure lube)
under the head (radius) for the most consistent and repeatable torque read-
ings.

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

Can you post a link to this TSB? I just put the bottom end of my '98 LS1 together and did 15# + 60° per the book everyone recommends (I can't think of the name of the book though). If this has changed, and I need to add another 25°, I'd like to do it now while I've still got the bottom end open.

Note - I'm using stock rods, pistons, bolts, etc. Just a new set of bearings and rings.

goldta78

I was supposed to remove the sleeves out of the rod caps right? Once I did the ARP bolts seemed a little loose to me. Seemed to torque down just fine though.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-002

Date: March 05, 2007

INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on Revised Connecting Rod Bolt Torque for Small Block GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) V8 Engines



Models

A new connecting rod bolt torque specification was introduced to the GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) small block V8 engines. The connecting rod bolts should continue to be tightened using two passes. The second pass value has been increased from 75 degrees to 85 degrees.

Install the connecting rod bolts and tighten. Refer to Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Installation in SI.

Tighten

Tighten the connecting rod bolts a first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

Tighten the connecting rod bolts a final pass to 85 degrees using the J 45059 Angle Meter.

Russ Kemp

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

Looks like I gotta pop loose all of them and re-torque. Not a big deal considering everything is still just in an engine bag.