Rod Cap torque specs
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 27
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From: illinois
Rod Cap torque specs Ok so some base line information. I'm building an lq4 for my 79 Camaro. I just took the block in to the shop to get it cleaned, and ARP main studs/line hone. $650, I already had the rotating assembly balanced $400. I was told to put in ARP rod bolts in by the machinest. However when I tried to buy them from the speed shop he told me to use the old ones. Since "I won't be using nitrous"
It seems like a lot of money I spent already just to leave the old TTY bolts in.
But I don't see why the torque spec is different for different pistons, because the arp bolts work from 99-2013. So if the bolts are the same why is the torque spec different?
Pistons are stock LQ4 takeouts from a crate motor which was never ran. which have original bolts. I do not know what series they are.
In the manual I have, it says torque to 15 ft. lbs and an additional
60 degrees first design
and 75 for second design
I don't know what design I have
I torqued them to 15, and put 70 degrees on them. So I'm not sure, I think I should just get the ARP rod bolts for it.
If You think I should get the ARP bolts, does anyone have a part # for them.
Thanks guys!
It seems like a lot of money I spent already just to leave the old TTY bolts in.
But I don't see why the torque spec is different for different pistons, because the arp bolts work from 99-2013. So if the bolts are the same why is the torque spec different?
Pistons are stock LQ4 takeouts from a crate motor which was never ran. which have original bolts. I do not know what series they are.
In the manual I have, it says torque to 15 ft. lbs and an additional
60 degrees first design
and 75 for second design
I don't know what design I have
I torqued them to 15, and put 70 degrees on them. So I'm not sure, I think I should just get the ARP rod bolts for it.
If You think I should get the ARP bolts, does anyone have a part # for them.
Thanks guys!
Last edited by goldta78; Oct 5, 2013 at 05:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 27
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From: illinois
Well actually they are pretty big into racing. He has been featured in Hot Rod Magazine multiple times for his race cars. he said, because the motor had never been ran there would be no issue. but I'm not sure what they should be torqued to.
so the score is 2-0 for new bolts
so the score is 2-0 for new bolts
Make that 3-0
Here, I made it easy for you lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-134-6006-8740-Connecting-Rod-Bolts-Chevy-LS1-Cracked-Rod-4-8L-5-3L-6-0L-6-2L-/390546364661?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aee6098f5&vxp=mtr
Here, I made it easy for you lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-134-6006-8740-Connecting-Rod-Bolts-Chevy-LS1-Cracked-Rod-4-8L-5-3L-6-0L-6-2L-/390546364661?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aee6098f5&vxp=mtr
Last edited by X-Bomb Racing; Oct 5, 2013 at 09:38 PM.
You need to do some research on aftermarket rod bolts and stock rods! From what ive read you cant use them! arp bolts require more torque to clamp, by doing so you may throw the cap off and lead to premature bearing wear or worse! The stock cracked rods can not be line honed.
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from what you read , listen I've done it . and checked the rods with a bore gage and jo blocks , and some did move but it was only .0001 thats 1 ten thousands of an inch . those guys that have bearing wear may have put too much prssure on pressing in the bolts .
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You need to do some research on aftermarket rod bolts and stock rods! From what ive read you cant use them! arp bolts require more torque to clamp, by doing so you may throw the cap off and lead to premature bearing wear or worse! The stock cracked rods can not be line honed.
There is a TSB changing the rod bolt tightening specs. It's still 15 ft lbs, but then 85* for all LS motors from 1997 & up.
The second design rod bolts have a sleeve on them. Or might be stuck in the rod cap.
Russ Kemp
The second design rod bolts have a sleeve on them. Or might be stuck in the rod cap.
Russ Kemp
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: illinois
so i need to put another 15 degrees on them? my bolts do not come out of the rod cap so does that mean they are second design?
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: illinois
they build a lot of engines. he knows almost every part number off the top of his head. Im going to be mostly stock with an edelbrock 7118 and a decnt size lunati cam. he told me to reuse the stock caps
And yes, turn them another 15 degrees.
Russ Kemp
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 27
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From: illinois
Make that 3-0
Here, I made it easy for you lol
Arp 134 6006 8740 Connecting Rod Bolts Chevy LS1 Cracked Rod 4 8L 5 3L 6 0L 6 2L | eBay
Here, I made it easy for you lol
Arp 134 6006 8740 Connecting Rod Bolts Chevy LS1 Cracked Rod 4 8L 5 3L 6 0L 6 2L | eBay
I also think your factory bolts would have been fine since no cycles but since
you've already bout the ARPs....yes they come with the paperwork showing
the torque specs for either 30 weight oil on the threads or the ARP lube (inc-
luded). A few machine shops I use prefered to acid dip the threads to remove
the black oxide coating, oil on the threads, and EPL (extreme pressure lube)
under the head (radius) for the most consistent and repeatable torque read-
ings.
you've already bout the ARPs....yes they come with the paperwork showing
the torque specs for either 30 weight oil on the threads or the ARP lube (inc-
luded). A few machine shops I use prefered to acid dip the threads to remove
the black oxide coating, oil on the threads, and EPL (extreme pressure lube)
under the head (radius) for the most consistent and repeatable torque read-
ings.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
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From: Land of the Mormon's although I'm not one of them
Note - I'm using stock rods, pistons, bolts, etc. Just a new set of bearings and rings.
Can you post a link to this TSB? I just put the bottom end of my '98 LS1 together and did 15# + 60° per the book everyone recommends (I can't think of the name of the book though). If this has changed, and I need to add another 25°, I'd like to do it now while I've still got the bottom end open.
Note - I'm using stock rods, pistons, bolts, etc. Just a new set of bearings and rings.
Note - I'm using stock rods, pistons, bolts, etc. Just a new set of bearings and rings.
Date: March 05, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on Revised Connecting Rod Bolt Torque for Small Block GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) V8 Engines
Models
A new connecting rod bolt torque specification was introduced to the GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) small block V8 engines. The connecting rod bolts should continue to be tightened using two passes. The second pass value has been increased from 75 degrees to 85 degrees.
Install the connecting rod bolts and tighten. Refer to Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Installation in SI.
Tighten
Tighten the connecting rod bolts a first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
Tighten the connecting rod bolts a final pass to 85 degrees using the J 45059 Angle Meter.
Russ Kemp
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Land of the Mormon's although I'm not one of them
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-002
Date: March 05, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on Revised Connecting Rod Bolt Torque for Small Block GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) V8 Engines
Models
A new connecting rod bolt torque specification was introduced to the GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) small block V8 engines. The connecting rod bolts should continue to be tightened using two passes. The second pass value has been increased from 75 degrees to 85 degrees.
Install the connecting rod bolts and tighten. Refer to Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Installation in SI.
Tighten
Tighten the connecting rod bolts a first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
Tighten the connecting rod bolts a final pass to 85 degrees using the J 45059 Angle Meter.
Russ Kemp
Date: March 05, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on Revised Connecting Rod Bolt Torque for Small Block GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) V8 Engines
Models
A new connecting rod bolt torque specification was introduced to the GEN III and GEN IV Vortec(TM) small block V8 engines. The connecting rod bolts should continue to be tightened using two passes. The second pass value has been increased from 75 degrees to 85 degrees.
Install the connecting rod bolts and tighten. Refer to Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Installation in SI.
Tighten
Tighten the connecting rod bolts a first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
Tighten the connecting rod bolts a final pass to 85 degrees using the J 45059 Angle Meter.
Russ Kemp
Looks like I gotta pop loose all of them and re-torque. Not a big deal considering everything is still just in an engine bag.