That was my graph overlay of the trex and tr230. I feel a definate bottom end loss between the two cams, but I got the trex for the track only (high RPM's) and I have the motor to pull 7400+ RPM if I want. This cam performs very good on the top end, but I say for a DD A4, I would make a different choice of cams for me. Personally, I love the TR224 cam, It's an all around great performer for a DD as are other cams out there. I was running 11.4's @ 117 MPH with the TR230 cam and a 3550 race weight and 3.23 gears. I will be getting some new time's with the Trex Sat. night, no other changes but the Trex cam so it should be a fairly good comparison. I'm not bias in any way to the cam, it will either perform or it won't and the ET will prove it. I definately won't hide anything or make excuses. As far as tuning goes, I got it running real well right now for an A4, no stalling or surging, just a bit rough on cold starts (runs rich).

Dan

 

joes car doe perform well but with this cam you need to really know how to get traction to get good times. just liek any new big mod its like relearning how to drive it. once you slap the et's on youll be in the 11's all day .
as for a daily driver like stated before with the correct tune it can easily be done

 

i think the cam has potential. i have gotten a pretty good wot tune, and i have a few ponies on joe, but so far i only have burnt clutch passes on this cam. the best run was a 11.9@118 with a awsome clutch smoking 1.9 60' i think most stock headed m6's can go mid 11's setup decent on full weight. of course some will go slower and some will fly.

 

I think to see the potential from this cam, plan on reving it. If you only plan to do 6200 RPM, this cam is not for you IMHO, your just leaving a lot of potential power in the upper RPM. If track times is your ultimate goal, find a cam that matches your set up and what you want to accomplish. If dyno numbers are more important, then the trex along with a slew of others will be just fine.

dan

 

you have to be kidding me. maybe i dont live at your track, but that is far from the truth everywhere i have been. mid 11s on a stock headed mn6 is straight haulin butt on stock weight (over 3600 lbs). you would ahve to be low 1.5s to pull that.

 

My car is pretty close to a full wieght car with bolt ons and I do 12.3@112 when I put this cam in and gain 70 rwhp your saying I won't do mid 11's without a 1.5 60'???? ummm wanna explain how I won't? Also my 60's are 1.77 and 1.8's generaly.

 

i was running almost the same as you with boltons, so ill let you know what you could run with slicks and a good rear/suspension in a few days

 

ok bench racing to the extreme here. just go do it and let us know how well it works for you. 1.8 to a 1.5 60' is pretty tough. 12.3 to a 11.5 even harder, esp in an MN6. good luck.

 

yea, the 1.78's were on 245 nittos with no practice with 4.10's
now have better suspension,clutch,gears,and slicks. so it shouldnt be a problem
oh yea, thanks

 

SMOKIN01TA, good luck from me as well. With any luck we will both have new and improved time's this weekend .

 

good luck dan. hopefully we both can get really low 11's

 

I hope you surpass everyones unexpectations, seems to me there are alot of haters. I'll talk to you whenever I touch land again.

 

Thats awesome, I am sure I can muster a tad more mph out of my cam with better driving but I am running 116-117 with 402 rwhp (that was with a 10 bolt, who knows how low it is now with the 12 bolt); goes to show that dyno's are nice and all but the track is the only way to prove your new found power.

BTW, my limiter is set to 6,800 rpm, I was shifting @ 6,500 rpm at the track, didn't see the point in rev'ing the **** out of the motor if my launching wasnt so well. I'm in no rush, I've got time.

 

BINGO - ding ding ding

my auto made 365 rwhp unlocked on a dynojet this year. i ran 116.8 mph unlocked at my near stock raceweight. in a manual that would easily have been 119 mph.

 

Well, we should all know by now, the dyno is a test tool, not an ET calculater. Not even the one's that calculate ET...

 

All that dyno shows is that when racing and you keep your car at high rpms the trex will destroy the 230 cam who cares what it makes under that? If I am racing I am not gonna short shift it. It also is perfectly fine for driveability plus you can always get it on a gring like my nitrous cam it should be even more streetable.

 

if you are a 6 speed, even shifting at 6600 rpms, you have any idea how low you drop into the next gear?

 

From a graph I just looked at, shifting at 7200 is going to be the ticket with the Trex. Otherwise, your RPM will fall out of the power on the next gear.

Spin da bitch!!!

 

so we are back full circle. spinning to 7200 rpms to take full advantage of this cam = HORRIDE daily driver/stip cam for nearly all of the cars on this board. vast majority of the guys dont have a balanced forged rotating assembly and top end valvetrane parts.

 

I'm with Gator. That has to be one of the least intelligent things I've seen posted in the last several days.

#1 valvetrain won't support it(at least for 99% of the people on here).
#2 Engine will come apart.