German Castrol oil thoughts.
The GC is a very good oil. It can definitely help with oil pressure in your motor as well. The analysis shows it has very good wear and shear properties and is an SL oil vs the newer and more EPA-friendly SM oils.
The SM vs SL means the number of additives and lubricants have changed, most noticeably the ZDDP levels. They dropped in the SM oils because of ZDDPs affect on catalytic converters. However, SM oils are subjected to tougher engine sequence tests, which measure an oils ability to protect the valvetrain, mitigate oxidation, and hold its low temperature performance longer over the entire oil change interval compared to SL.
The SM vs SL means the number of additives and lubricants have changed, most noticeably the ZDDP levels. They dropped in the SM oils because of ZDDPs affect on catalytic converters. However, SM oils are subjected to tougher engine sequence tests, which measure an oils ability to protect the valvetrain, mitigate oxidation, and hold its low temperature performance longer over the entire oil change interval compared to SL.
TECH Resident
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 782
Likes: 0
From: North Las Vegas, NV
I burn New and used oil samples for a living. Here is my take.
If the car is a daily driver (not raced), any API certified oil works. Even the Walmart brand (which the last time I burned it was the exact same as valvaline).
If you race your car, find an oil.with low sodium (NA) and high zinc (ZN). I am not saying go out and buy racing oil, but find an off the shelf brand that has a good spread between na and zn. Zinc protects against metal to metal contact. Sodium is used as a cleaner. Problem with sodium, it cleans.everything, including zinc.
Try to find an oil with zinc above 1000 parts-per-million (ppm). That is getting harder and harder to do because the EPA wants oil companies to switch over to titanium since it is safer for the environment (so they say).
If the car is a daily driver (not raced), any API certified oil works. Even the Walmart brand (which the last time I burned it was the exact same as valvaline).
If you race your car, find an oil.with low sodium (NA) and high zinc (ZN). I am not saying go out and buy racing oil, but find an off the shelf brand that has a good spread between na and zn. Zinc protects against metal to metal contact. Sodium is used as a cleaner. Problem with sodium, it cleans.everything, including zinc.
Try to find an oil with zinc above 1000 parts-per-million (ppm). That is getting harder and harder to do because the EPA wants oil companies to switch over to titanium since it is safer for the environment (so they say).
Read this guy's page and rankings of oils after testing them for wear protection
That castrol Edge is in there in various weights. The 0w-40 ranked lower than I would use for anything.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013...-test-ranking/
Here are the highlights
Synthetic isn't necessarily better than conventional for wear protection
Diesel and break in oils are ranked low.
More ZDDP is not necessarily better and too much is bad
Zinc additives ruin oil
“Oil extreme concentrate” is an additive that improves oil wear protection and doesn’t contain zinc
oil viscosity plays no particular role in an oil’s wear protection capability.
That castrol Edge is in there in various weights. The 0w-40 ranked lower than I would use for anything.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013...-test-ranking/
Here are the highlights
Synthetic isn't necessarily better than conventional for wear protection
Diesel and break in oils are ranked low.
More ZDDP is not necessarily better and too much is bad
Zinc additives ruin oil
“Oil extreme concentrate” is an additive that improves oil wear protection and doesn’t contain zinc
oil viscosity plays no particular role in an oil’s wear protection capability.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX again
I am a long time user of GC, I work at AutoZone and we just put it on clearance for $3. No idea why, so...I bought all 24 bottles we had 
We also had Mobil 1 10w30 & 10w40, Penzoil Ultra 5w30 all on clearance for $3.
I use the longer filters as well from Mobil, Bosch or K&N. Fram is crap, I agree with the op that stated that.
We also had Mobil 1 10w30 & 10w40, Penzoil Ultra 5w30 all on clearance for $3.
I use the longer filters as well from Mobil, Bosch or K&N. Fram is crap, I agree with the op that stated that.
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Read this guy's page and rankings of oils after testing them for wear protection
That castrol Edge is in there in various weights. The 0w-40 ranked lower than I would use for anything.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013...-test-ranking/.......
That castrol Edge is in there in various weights. The 0w-40 ranked lower than I would use for anything.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013...-test-ranking/.......
I've never heard of "Oil extreme concentrate". The first thing that struck me when I went to their website is "Guaranteed to Increase Horsepower" causing me to immediately dismiss the product.
I doubt any oil or oil additive can add horsepower.
Oil makers spend countless hours, resources and funds to "perfect" their lubricants. It's a careful and tested balance of base oils and additives. Adding more additives to this package and you may be ruining an otherwise great oil.
Example: The Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer is just a thick grade of oil (like a 90 weight) with soap added to it. At higher RPM's, it causes the oil to foam up. Air is not a lubricant.
Chose a quality synthetic oil, all the top shelf brands will serve you well. Don't add anything to it. Perform a oil & filter change when the oil is dark on the stick, not by any random mileage number.
I doubt any oil or oil additive can add horsepower.
Oil makers spend countless hours, resources and funds to "perfect" their lubricants. It's a careful and tested balance of base oils and additives. Adding more additives to this package and you may be ruining an otherwise great oil.
Example: The Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer is just a thick grade of oil (like a 90 weight) with soap added to it. At higher RPM's, it causes the oil to foam up. Air is not a lubricant.
Chose a quality synthetic oil, all the top shelf brands will serve you well. Don't add anything to it. Perform a oil & filter change when the oil is dark on the stick, not by any random mileage number.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
From: Orlaanndoooo
I let the evidence guide me and went with getting my oil analyzed.
Mobil 1 5-30 was showing too much wear. Based on the results of others I took a chance with the GC 0-30. The used oil analysis looks amazing with it. M1 is pretty much used by GM due to its being on the ultra low end of viscosity and therefore helps mpg numbers. As such, mine wasn't a fair comparison of similar oils. Still, I found one my engine and the used oil analysis folks like.
My POS Honda, on the other hand, is quite content with regular old Napa 5-30. I drive it up to 200 miles a day for work and the oil tests good until just about 5 digit oil change intervals. Then again, it's not boosted--it just sucks.
Mobil 1 5-30 was showing too much wear. Based on the results of others I took a chance with the GC 0-30. The used oil analysis looks amazing with it. M1 is pretty much used by GM due to its being on the ultra low end of viscosity and therefore helps mpg numbers. As such, mine wasn't a fair comparison of similar oils. Still, I found one my engine and the used oil analysis folks like.
My POS Honda, on the other hand, is quite content with regular old Napa 5-30. I drive it up to 200 miles a day for work and the oil tests good until just about 5 digit oil change intervals. Then again, it's not boosted--it just sucks.
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 30
I let the evidence guide me and went with getting my oil analyzed.
Mobil 1 5-30 was showing too much wear. Based on the results of others I took a chance with the GC 0-30. The used oil analysis looks amazing with it. M1 is pretty much used by GM due to its being on the ultra low end of viscosity and therefore helps mpg numbers. As such, mine wasn't a fair comparison of similar oils. Still, I found one my engine and the used oil analysis folks like.
My POS Honda, on the other hand, is quite content with regular old Napa 5-30. I drive it up to 200 miles a day for work and the oil tests good until just about 5 digit oil change intervals. Then again, it's not boosted--it just sucks.
Mobil 1 5-30 was showing too much wear. Based on the results of others I took a chance with the GC 0-30. The used oil analysis looks amazing with it. M1 is pretty much used by GM due to its being on the ultra low end of viscosity and therefore helps mpg numbers. As such, mine wasn't a fair comparison of similar oils. Still, I found one my engine and the used oil analysis folks like.
My POS Honda, on the other hand, is quite content with regular old Napa 5-30. I drive it up to 200 miles a day for work and the oil tests good until just about 5 digit oil change intervals. Then again, it's not boosted--it just sucks.
Above this guy claims one of the best oils Mobil One on the market is bad............................................... ......
Ah I see, I've never heard of the European formula. If you can trust the guy's results, and his test methods seem sound, then there are plenty of readily available oils that are high on the list.
There used to be a time when cars like Porsches came with GC and the only place to buy the stuff was at a Porsche dealer.
Despite the newer oils that have entered the market since GC came out years ago (and it was green), GC still is one of the better lubricants you can buy.
Despite the newer oils that have entered the market since GC came out years ago (and it was green), GC still is one of the better lubricants you can buy.
Last edited by Paul Bell; Dec 21, 2013 at 05:22 AM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
I ran GC for a long time. When the price started going up a few years ago with the "oil crisis" I started switching with conventional - TropArtic 5-30. I noticed my valvetrain was quieter with conventional. That and even with a longer OCI, I couldn't justify the price difference $7.00 vs. $2.25 a quart. I quit using synthetic and don't regret it. I use the T/A 5-30 in winter and Rotella 10-30 in summer.
GC is good stuff used to use it all the time till we started stocking amsoil.
I run Amsoil 15/40 diesel oil in everything just because we keep it 55 gallons at a time at work and use the mobil extended life oil filters. It keeps my 6.2 pistons quiet until the mercury starts getting below 45 or so outside. Never had a problem in the last 15 years with it on multiple LS vehicles including our shop truck which the guy's drive like a cheap *****.
I run Amsoil 15/40 diesel oil in everything just because we keep it 55 gallons at a time at work and use the mobil extended life oil filters. It keeps my 6.2 pistons quiet until the mercury starts getting below 45 or so outside. Never had a problem in the last 15 years with it on multiple LS vehicles including our shop truck which the guy's drive like a cheap *****.