A member brought it to my attention earlier that if I use my arp rod bolts I will need to have my rods honed a little larger and use a larger bearing what all does this entail as far as the honing process would I take the whole block to a machine shop or just individual rods as I don't trust myself with those accurate of measurements required to measure stretch

 

They'll only need the rods with the ARP bolts. All they'll do is install the bolts and hone the rod big ends to size.

 

Ok thank you

 

I used ARP rod bolts with no resizing & have over 20,000 miles on it with no issues.

 

Did you install them by not removing the cap but removing a bolt and replacing them one at a time? Also what part number

 

Did a total rebuild on motor. ARP # 134-6006

 

I took my rods and arp bolts to my machine shop, said torque'em up and let me know if the rod to be resized. He said all is fine and said your good to go. I also have 20,000 miles on my bastard motor.

 

Does anyone know why some need resized yet others don't and how some bolts will egg shape the rod and others don't the whole process doesent make sence to me

 

hello , how are You today ? I would say that rods are just like anything else in that every engine has very small differences in metal density and every engine is subjected to different amount of abuse if You will . for instance phoenix is hotter than green bay and phoenix has quite a bit of dust in the air and different drivers put different stresses on engines so all of this equalls every engine wearing out at different rates . Stock rods with stock bolts become a little eeg shaped over time but the added clamping force of the arp fasteners just speeds up that process , now having said that , to be as safe as possible all rods should be checked when rebuilding and honed when necessary including those with stock bolts .

 

Ok thank you for the explanation I think it makes sence now

 

What are your engine build goals? Why do you think you may need ARP hardware?

 

I wanna be In the mid to low 11s currently my build will consist of polluter cam ls6 intake prc 2.5 heads long tubes with 4:10 gears and I would just like them for the piece of mind the more I research the more I see that katech may be the way to go it's a 2000 m6 z28

 

Sounds like your going to have a badass setup! My TA has ARP rodbolts with 30k on them and no resizing, no issues yet. Car has H/C/I and 150shot

 

Every motor that I build if I'm using old rods always get resized.

 

I hope it will meet or exceed my goals 97 camaro
And ya bozz I understand people even say to check with the katech so I will most likely have them specd

 

If your not turning crazy RPM to do it, the OEM rods would work fine for those goals IMHO. The rod bolts being the "weak link" is total BS. I've yet to see one break up into the 1000+ WHP range.

I and many others have made serious power on the OEM hardware. FWIW I ran 8's on a 2001 5.3 w/ a BONE STOCK rotating assy. (160k) with all original hardware. I didn't rev it past 6800. It is also NOT TTY hardware and can be re-torqued.

Good luck!

 

How high are you planning on spinning the motor? You shouldn't have to rev to the moon to attain your goals. That being said, I'm no expert on when rod bolts need to be replaced but I was under the assumption that 6600 and under is fine on stock hardware given your motor hasn't been shitted on all its life with bad maintenance.