Ok first off I've read through the so you wanna be fast thread a couple time so I understand the benefits of the easy bolt ons. But I'm putting this in my 87 camaro so lid and long tubes are kinda not going to work for me. The motor is out of a 2002 z28 so it has the ls6 intake I doubled checked to make sure it wasn't switched out. I'm just looking for advice on how in depth of rebuild I should do and what I should upgrade while it's out. I kinda wanna biggish cam so I get that lope at idle(not sure if I'm explaining that right). And way down the road I would like to either procharge or turbo charge it and possibly spray it funds permiting. Nothing insane but just for a little fun cruiser. I will be using a t56 if that affects anything. Just wondering if I should do forged internals or just do a complete OE spec rebuild then just do cam then bigger TB and match the intake and maybe head work. I'm open to all suggestions and any help would be appreciated.

 

It sounds like you need to evaluate what your goals are for the car then go and reread that thread about 4 dozen more times...

 

Ok well when I swap the engine in I want it be n/a so im not worrying about too many things to get it running right. But I want it to be able to handle average boost im think 15-20psi maybe a little less. I just want to do it right the first time so I dont have to take the engine out to mess with the internals when im ready for forced induction

 

15-20psi is not "average" boost and will take a stout rotating assembly to handle that on a daily basis.

Regardless of what you put in the motor now...if you're "doing this on a budget"...by the time you have the "budget" to go boost you'll be pulling it apart for a 2nd complete rebuild anyways. Tolerances and parts choices are completely different between NA and a motor built from the start for 20psi...

it sounds like you basically bought this with big hopes & dreams...and little thought into what it would take and how to accomplish your goal...

First: get the thing freshened up. if it has any real mileage at all you'll still want to break it down and spec everything out. new gaskets, seals, oil/water pumps, rings, bearings, etc...you basic budget rebuild...

if you want to do anything while the motor is out...you'll have to pull the heads anyways...so make the decision RIGHT THERE as to if you have the ***** & budget to go boost or not... IF YES - obtain a more boost friendly cylinder head and build those up. IF NOT: stick with stock or obtain other suitable budget casting for NA duty and build those up.

While that's apart your front cover will be off...IF BOOST: Boost friendly custom cam from one of the many cam gurus here... IF NA: good custom grind from one of many cam gurus here...

Your stock rotating assembly will take low double digit boost with intercooling or meth injection. If you get stupid with boost/HP you will at least want to swap out pistons and rods...AGAIN...decide right from the get-go what you want to do.

if it were me: I would do a simple yet tasteful H/C/I swap like i'm currently doing on my 2000 M6 Z28...while in the background still acquiring a 6.0L Iron block for one of two directions: either forged boost motor or a large cube stroker. The H/C/I on stock cubes will get you 420-470whp depending on how many rectangular dollars you wish to spend. in a 3rd gen ~450hp is nothing to turn your nose up to...it will be all sorts of fun on the street and you will be the envy of your trailer park (camaro. trailer park. joke. ha)...

 

Ok yeah I guess 20 is kinda crazy on a budget. Now im thinking a more tolerable daily driver psi around 10 max to keep it safe. With lower boost around 10 you said forged internals arnt needed so just freshen up the block with new rings and bearings. What are boost friendly heads? And with heads and cam built for boost while its N/A im sure it would put out good numbers correct?

 

the 317 heads have a larger combustion chamber and will lower the compression which is beneficial to boost setups. believe the ports are based off the 243 casting so they will flow pretty good too...

Your stock bottom end should tolerate 10psi intercooled or with meth injection...with a conservative and safe tune so long as attention is paid to detail and the rest of your parts selection is of sufficient quality.

those 317's with a stock head gasket and factory pistons will drop the compression well into the 9's:1 so it will make less power low end compared to stock head/stock compression but once it gets turning it will make decent enough numbers to keep you happy...

I would still keep the two builds separate and just drive it in the meantime until you can build what you truly want...it sounds like you still have much thinking left to do before a decision is made...

 

Ok well after reading everything you pointed out that I obviously overlooked or didnt think of. with the ls I have im going to keep it N/A and first of all do a need rebuild it has 119k on it. Then do some head work and a cam then since its going in a thirdgen im think of running the stainless works long tubes. Then purchase a short block and build that one for boost if I feel like a need something with more power

 

you can get seasoned & machined 6.0L Iron blocks for ~700 bucks. I'd refresh the one you have to get your feet wet and pickup a junkyard 6.0L or get one of those pre-machined blocks and build as your budget allows...

A rebuild at 119k is smart. I should probably do one on mine as it's north of 100k miles but it runs very strong. we'll double check compression before the teardown just in-case...

Even refreshing your current LS will give you plenty of time to think about the path you want to take...you'll end up with a fun car either way...just take your time...

 

Ok so what are good heads to get and stay N/A? And what kinds of uprgades should I do to them? Also whats a good cam to get that will give me little lope at idle?

 

if you're really on a budget...stock 241 castings are ok...that's what im gonna be running. A step up would be the LS6/LS2 243 castings. That's pretty much your best cathedral port factory head. Contact either Advanced Inductions or Total Engine Airflow. I went with TEA. $1,1xx & change got me squared away with 100% CNC'd heads with stock valves, lunati valvesprings, new retainers, locks, etc setup and ready to roll with my custom cam from Martin @ Tick performance. Martin's cam was ~400 and was spec'd specifically for my exact combination. Martin worked hand in hand with Greg from TEA to ensure the heads were set up properly from square one.

if you want a *bit* more out of it...you need to decide how far you want to go. there's a ton of aftermarket heads that will squeeze more power out of a stock cubic inch motor but they'll REALLY shine once you start to bump up displacement. You're gonna pay for that privilege though...