What do i need to put 243 on my ls1?
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I'm buying a set of 243 heads to put on my ls1 what all do I need to buy? I have 7.4 comp push rods and dual valve springs. One motor mods are a 230/232 112 cam, and I'm gonna add a fast 90/90 intake the same time I do the heads, any and all advice would be great.
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I prefer gm mls head gaskets and gm head bolts. Also you will need exhaust gaskets and valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets too, water pump gaskets.
Ws6store has a head cam swap gasket kit. Or just buy what you need from that list separately. I would also suggest upgrading to an LS2 timing chain while you are doing a cam swap. How's the oil pump on age? You ate already going to be there so if it's old then that wood be a good idea too. Another side note, since the heads are coming off......LIFTERS!!! I bought Brian tooley slr lifters.I think I got most of it covered.
Ws6store has a head cam swap gasket kit. Or just buy what you need from that list separately. I would also suggest upgrading to an LS2 timing chain while you are doing a cam swap. How's the oil pump on age? You ate already going to be there so if it's old then that wood be a good idea too. Another side note, since the heads are coming off......LIFTERS!!! I bought Brian tooley slr lifters.I think I got most of it covered.
Last edited by autogeek23; 03-02-2014 at 09:58 PM.
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I would get new valve seals too. I just kinda figured those cane in your cam kit if you bought a kit. Arp isn't exactly necessary. I've just always bought gm head bolts and they do fine as long as they are torqued right. Maybe someone else will come in with some input on going arp. When I did my first cam swap I was on a budget and didn't need arp. As far add the guides go, I guess it depends on the condition of the heads. Mine were fine and bought my 243s off eBay. Maybe I got lucky
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When I did my 243s I measured pushrod length and ended up needing 7.375 Pushrods. I would measure to be sure, I would never assume stock length will work even for stock heads. I also had the stock cam in when doing this. If you are switching to 243 heads I would upgrade to some BTR SLR Lifters while in there if you have the money to do so. I would do ARP bolts over GM as they are reusable and just need to be torqued to spec. In addition they are much stronger than stock, if you can afford them they are a good investment.
Remember when replacing heads you must clean all of the bolt holes to ensure there is no grim or coolant in them otherwise you will cracks your block when you torque the bolts down on top of the coolant and possibly grim.
Remember when replacing heads you must clean all of the bolt holes to ensure there is no grim or coolant in them otherwise you will cracks your block when you torque the bolts down on top of the coolant and possibly grim.
Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 03-03-2014 at 09:45 AM.
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So over all, I need arp head bolts, gm head gaskets, new lifters, and do away with the 7.4 pushrods? Should I do away with the dual valve springs that i already have on my stock heads?
Around thanksgiving one of my rocker arms lost all the needle bearings and ended up on my drain plug, I changed the oil yesterday and found a few more but none of the rockers were broke this time(assuming they are leftovers).
Around thanksgiving one of my rocker arms lost all the needle bearings and ended up on my drain plug, I changed the oil yesterday and found a few more but none of the rockers were broke this time(assuming they are leftovers).
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So over all, I need arp head bolts, gm head gaskets, new lifters, and do away with the 7.4 pushrods? Should I do away with the dual valve springs that i already have on my stock heads?
Around thanksgiving one of my rocker arms lost all the needle bearings and ended up on my drain plug, I changed the oil yesterday and found a few more but none of the rockers were broke this time(assuming they are leftovers).
Around thanksgiving one of my rocker arms lost all the needle bearings and ended up on my drain plug, I changed the oil yesterday and found a few more but none of the rockers were broke this time(assuming they are leftovers).
With regard to the PR...You really need to measure with pushrod length checker, I ended up with 7.350s to get the right pre-load. (243 heads milled .020 w/MLS gaskets, LS7 lifters and Futral cam)...If you got 243s off a C5Z they should have sodium filled valves, which in turn have longer valve stems, in turn that will require a shorter pushrod.
Still finding needle bearings in the oil, yikes...I would drop that **** or at the very least use a magnetic drain plug if not already, maybe even run a magnet on the pan near the drain plug.
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check Texas Speed for head/cam swap kit .get some new rocker arm bearings .the Gm head bolts are ok if you have the tools to torque them right .how many miles on you engine ? you probably should get new lifters .get a new ls2 timing chain ,and consider getting a new oil pump .check the valves for and leaks ,consider getting a valve job if any valve leaks fluid you pour in the port .