c5z LS6 cam swap time
#1
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Ok, so I know this gets beat to death . ![Read the thread](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/readthethread.gif)
It has come time that I want to install a cam in my semi new to me c5z. It has 139k on it, but runs great. Engine is all stock to my knowledge inside.
I have my cam here already. It was a Brian Tooley custom cam 238/242 615/610 113+2 cam
I just ordered a set of Brian Tooley platinum dual spring kit. so that should cover my springs/retainers/seals and locks
I know I will need pushrods, but I am going to measure for those...im sure ill prob need stock size.
Besides that, what is REQUIRED for me to complete the install? I know replace the gaskets I take off. (so timing cover, pump gaskets, etc)
I see people mention replacing the crank bolt....with what?
I see people mention doing oil pumps or LS6 pumps...ok I have a LS6, do I really need to do a ported or high flow melling, katech, etc? Is it a must?
Timing chain stuff? A must? if so, then what
What else am I missing that is REQUIRED only. At this time im not looking to go all out...I may rebuild one day, or heck who knows have a diff car since i change so much.
So what is needed to just swap the cam on the car and get it going in a reliable manner?
![Read the thread](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/readthethread.gif)
It has come time that I want to install a cam in my semi new to me c5z. It has 139k on it, but runs great. Engine is all stock to my knowledge inside.
I have my cam here already. It was a Brian Tooley custom cam 238/242 615/610 113+2 cam
I just ordered a set of Brian Tooley platinum dual spring kit. so that should cover my springs/retainers/seals and locks
I know I will need pushrods, but I am going to measure for those...im sure ill prob need stock size.
Besides that, what is REQUIRED for me to complete the install? I know replace the gaskets I take off. (so timing cover, pump gaskets, etc)
I see people mention replacing the crank bolt....with what?
I see people mention doing oil pumps or LS6 pumps...ok I have a LS6, do I really need to do a ported or high flow melling, katech, etc? Is it a must?
Timing chain stuff? A must? if so, then what
What else am I missing that is REQUIRED only. At this time im not looking to go all out...I may rebuild one day, or heck who knows have a diff car since i change so much.
So what is needed to just swap the cam on the car and get it going in a reliable manner?
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
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Oil pump is just a piece of mind thing since yours has 139 on it. Get a new pickup o-ring and at least a LS2 chain for 40 bucks. It's thicker/stronger and still uses your factory gears. You can get another GM balancer bolt since the original one is a torque to yield and has to be pitched. A reusable ARP bolt is about 35 as opposed to 10 for the stock 1 time use piece. Definitely measure for the push rods and I wouldn't be surprised if you need 7.425".
Tooley can get you all that's left for your swap and good luck to you.
Tooley can get you all that's left for your swap and good luck to you.
#4
#5
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
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Another LS6 pump or IIRC the Melling high pressure/stock volume is a decent/cheap pump.
Lastly most people use a longer bolt to draw the balancer on the crank as a generic installer. Then back it out before it bottoms out and install a new GM
I just preheated my balancer to expand it, tapped it on a bit with a lead shot hammer, and drew it on the rest of the way with the new GM bolt.
#6
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The C5R chain is badass but most people put that on new gears..which then adds up to a few hundred bucks.
Another LS6 pump or IIRC the Melling high pressure/stock volume is a decent/cheap pump.
Lastly most people use a longer bolt to draw the balancer on the crank as a generic installer. Then back it out before it bottoms out and install a new GM
I just preheated my balancer to expand it, tapped it on a bit with a lead shot hammer, and drew it on the rest of the way with the new GM bolt.
Another LS6 pump or IIRC the Melling high pressure/stock volume is a decent/cheap pump.
Lastly most people use a longer bolt to draw the balancer on the crank as a generic installer. Then back it out before it bottoms out and install a new GM
I just preheated my balancer to expand it, tapped it on a bit with a lead shot hammer, and drew it on the rest of the way with the new GM bolt.
Ah gotcha...yeah I gotta start finding some tools I need such as the valve spring compressors (wanna use those that do 2 at once), and a pushrod length checker.