Im checking on shipping this afternoon. They guy has a trickflow 228/230 on 112 with 585 lift cam that can go with it for a bit extra. Wonder how dd that setup would be? I am not wanting it to surge at around 1700-2000rpm when crusing down the highway and the converter is locked. I may have to give up the idea of a small lopey sounding cam to match the converter.

 

Well crap, with shipping charges across the country and all the little tid bits to make it work the LS2 dosent seem like a "budget friendly" used engine. Im going to try to look at the LQ4 again this afternoon as the guy was gone yesterday when I showed up. I have also found an LQ9 for $1800 out of an 02 escalade with 131,000 miles on it. The salvage yard owner said he drove the vehicle from the auction there and it has no problems at all. The vehicle is still there and they have proof of mileage. It wasnt wrecked or anything just bought to part out. I guess my question now is the LQ9 worth $600 more knowing the mileage and there are no problems at all with it or the supposed 75,000 mile LQ4 that the other salvage yard owner hasnt heard run?

 

The LQ9 with flat tops, your 241's, and a .040 gasket would put you in the 10.6:1 compression ratio. So that would be a bump in compression and power right there. Your GT2-3 cam wouldn't be the greatest cam for that motor but a better choice than the stocker. The $600 might be worth it then.

 

Would you just install it without a rebuild knowing it ran fine but had that many miles on it? I would consider a different cam as long as it was not going to cost me any mileage over the GT2-3 setup. Would the 317's not make more power and torque than the 241's on the LQ9? Maybe a little milling to get the cc's down?

 

Personally, I would have it all tore down and do new rings and bearings all around. Well worth it for an engine with 130k.

Yes they would, but again after the cost of milling etc you might as well buy 243s. Selling the 241s for $200 and 317s for $200 and you're already at the price of a set of 243s.

 

If I could get $200 for the 241's and the 317's that would work. Should I try to do the rebuild myself as there are no LS engine rebuild specialty shops around just mom n pops rebuild shops. Should I just let them rebuild it? I have all the tools to check clearances and such but don't know where Id get the machine work done. If I have it tore all apart shouldn't I just get some upgraded rods and pistons while Im in there?

 

I'd grab and LS3 if you can find one. What's your budget?

 

As cheap as possible! $3-4K?

 

I guess it comes down to what you want out of this and how much $$$ you want to send on this motor. At 118,xxx miles that engine has a lot of life left in her, if it was taken care of. Throw it in as it sits, or you can tare it all down and rebuild the entire thing and spend another $1500+ and have a brand new engine.

 

True, but for $1800 + $1500= $3300 I can get a reman LQ9 from Thompson motorsports for $2800 shipped with a warranty. For $2700 shipped They have 5.7 engines with forged pistons and rods. Decisions, decisions...

 

Depending on the market in your area you could look into a 5.3L iron LM7. They go for $500-$700 local to me. That would get you driving again, cheap... Then start to build a nice forged SB, heads/cam with your NO2 or Procharger build/goal in mind. Drop it i after it's everything you really want.

 

True. I found an 02 5.3 with like 120k on it for $650. I heard they are not very fun to drive unless you have FI on them. It would only be temporary but I dont know if Id be willing to pull the engine again after I had built one like I wanted. My wife is fed up with all the time I have already spent on this car. I havent even told her I have to change the engine yet. .

 

Well LQ4 it is. I swung by and stole it for $850 out the door. The guy wanted $1200 but I talked him down with a bit of smooth talking to $850 cash out the door. It came from an 06 2500hd with 62xxx miles on it. I removed the spark plugs and looked inside the cylinders and convinced him the tiny bit of surface rust in one cyl might have caused some damage. So now I guess the options get narrower from here since I already have atleast the shortblock.

 

Very nice, now you just have to tell the wife... lol

 

Yeah, that's gonna go over like a turn in a punch bowl!!

 

Well I got the engine down to a shortblock and found out the pistons have valve reliefs already in them. A search on here leads me to believe these came on all the floating rod LQ4's. Will this be benificial to a mild cammed build or was PTV clearance no big issue anyways? Now to figure out what heads and direction to go in on the build. N/A or F.I. .

 

Forced Induction

 

Your persuasion isnt helping my bank account at all. I picked up an 06 model low mileage 4l80e from a salvage yard for $300 with the slip yoke and stock converter. I figured if I do go F.I. the little factory 60e wont handle much boost before begging for its life.

 

Well, I decided to stay N/A with possibly a 100-150 shot vs a Procharger for cost and simplicity reasons. I picked up a F.A.S.T. 90mm intake off here. Im looking at a set of 243's and a cam for a high comp dd car that still gets good mileage while making good power. Id like to see 420-450rwhp outta the setup n/a but then again, who wouldnt. I need a cam thats gonna be easy on valvetrain and still have a good chop to it at idle. Fire away guys!!!

 

EPS 230/234 or the similar stg 3 LS 2 by Cammotion. Both grinds will meet your goals for sound and power/mileage.