New engine time, advice needed
If you can get the LS2 then just pop your cam/springs in there and be happy with great response and mileage. Sure the LS2 can take a much bigger cam and still be streetable with your stall but that GT2-3 is still a step up from the stock stick and it would fit your budget now while working with potential boost later.
Last edited by JRENIGAR; Jun 13, 2014 at 06:17 AM.
Well crap, with shipping charges across the country and all the little tid bits to make it work the LS2 dosent seem like a "budget friendly" used engine. Im going to try to look at the LQ4 again this afternoon as the guy was gone yesterday when I showed up. I have also found an LQ9 for $1800 out of an 02 escalade with 131,000 miles on it. The salvage yard owner said he drove the vehicle from the auction there and it has no problems at all. The vehicle is still there and they have proof of mileage. It wasnt wrecked or anything just bought to part out. I guess my question now is the LQ9 worth $600 more knowing the mileage and there are no problems at all with it or the supposed 75,000 mile LQ4 that the other salvage yard owner hasnt heard run?
The LQ9 with flat tops, your 241's, and a .040 gasket would put you in the 10.6:1 compression ratio. So that would be a bump in compression and power right there. Your GT2-3 cam wouldn't be the greatest cam for that motor but a better choice than the stocker. The $600 might be worth it then.
Would you just install it without a rebuild knowing it ran fine but had that many miles on it? I would consider a different cam as long as it was not going to cost me any mileage over the GT2-3 setup. Would the 317's not make more power and torque than the 241's on the LQ9? Maybe a little milling to get the cc's down?
Would you just install it without a rebuild knowing it ran fine but had that many miles on it?
Would the 317's not make more power and torque than the 241's on the LQ9? Maybe a little milling to get the cc's down?
Personally, I would have it all tore down and do new rings and bearings all around. Well worth it for an engine with 130k.
Yes they would, but again after the cost of milling etc you might as well buy 243s. Selling the 241s for $200 and 317s for $200 and you're already at the price of a set of 243s.
Yes they would, but again after the cost of milling etc you might as well buy 243s. Selling the 241s for $200 and 317s for $200 and you're already at the price of a set of 243s.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo Would you just install it without a rebuild knowing it ran fine but had that many miles on it? I would consider a different cam as long as it was not going to cost me any mileage over the GT2-3 setup. Would the 317's not make more power and torque than the 241's on the LQ9? Maybe a little milling to get the cc's down?
I guess it comes down to what you want out of this and how much $$$ you want to send on this motor. At 118,xxx miles that engine has a lot of life left in her, if it was taken care of. Throw it in as it sits, or you can tare it all down and rebuild the entire thing and spend another $1500+ and have a brand new engine.
Depending on the market in your area you could look into a 5.3L iron LM7. They go for $500-$700 local to me. That would get you driving again, cheap... Then start to build a nice forged SB, heads/cam with your NO2 or Procharger build/goal in mind. Drop it i after it's everything you really want.
Depending on the market in your area you could look into a 5.3L iron LM7. They go for $500-$700 local to me. That would get you driving again, cheap... Then start to build a nice forged SB, heads/cam with your NO2 or Procharger build/goal in mind. Drop it i after it's everything you really want.
. Well LQ4 it is. I swung by and stole it for $850 out the door. The guy wanted $1200 but I talked him down with a bit of smooth talking to $850 cash out the door. It came from an 06 2500hd with 62xxx miles on it. I removed the spark plugs and looked inside the cylinders and convinced him the tiny bit of surface rust in one cyl might have caused some damage. So now I guess the options get narrower from here since I already have atleast the shortblock.
Well LQ4 it is. I swung by and stole it for $850 out the door. The guy wanted $1200 but I talked him down with a bit of smooth talking to $850 cash out the door. It came from an 06 2500hd with 62xxx miles on it. I removed the spark plugs and looked inside the cylinders and convinced him the tiny bit of surface rust in one cyl might have caused some damage. So now I guess the options get narrower from here since I already have atleast the shortblock.
Very nice, now you just have to tell the wife... lol
Well I got the engine down to a shortblock and found out the pistons have valve reliefs already in them. A search on here leads me to believe these came on all the floating rod LQ4's. Will this be benificial to a mild cammed build or was PTV clearance no big issue anyways? Now to figure out what heads and direction to go in on the build. N/A 
or F.I. 
.
or F.I. . 
Your persuasion isnt helping my bank account at all. 
I picked up an 06 model low mileage 4l80e from a salvage yard for $300 with the slip yoke and stock converter. I figured if I do go F.I. the little factory 60e wont handle much boost before begging for its life.
I picked up an 06 model low mileage 4l80e from a salvage yard for $300 with the slip yoke and stock converter. I figured if I do go F.I. the little factory 60e wont handle much boost before begging for its life. Well, I decided to stay N/A with possibly a 100-150 shot vs a Procharger for cost and simplicity reasons. I picked up a F.A.S.T. 90mm intake off here. Im looking at a set of 243's and a cam for a high comp dd car that still gets good mileage while making good power. Id like to see 420-450rwhp outta the setup n/a but then again, who wouldnt. I need a cam thats gonna be easy on valvetrain and still have a good chop to it at idle. Fire away guys!!! 
