Did I screw them up beyond repair ? I have two sets. I take no offense to any opinions. If I made a mistake ill accept that I tried and failed. I have no problem with that. My aim was the rocker lump and swirl ramp. After the rough cut I started sanding the intake ports with an 80 grit. The exhaust I knocked the casting off and polished with 120. I did not open the d port or gasket match it. The intake I left the short turn and the bowl alone most. The chambers I did not touch other than wire brush the carbon of when I got them.

 

I always thought there were decent gains in unshrouding the valves a little which means digging into the chamber some.

 

You haven't touched the areas that actually pick up power and removed material in all the wrong parts so far. That is your problem. The bowl and the short turn will yield lots of power without even touching the rocker boss. I would have left the swirl ramp in as well. The whole 120 grit thing is pointless as well you can even leave them with a carbide burr finish.

 

Ok so Im focusing in the wrong area. I need to research more about the short turn then. Will removing the swirl ramp going to screw with my low to mid range ?

 

In as few words possible yes, especially when the head sees low air speeds. Xrated did a video when he was removing material from the short turn, its pretty simple. He just cut into it and then smoothed it. I would recommend taking 100 to 150 though by taking the short turn back. i'll make a video of it later this week when i do another set of 243 heads. Its literally like enlarging the bowl in that area towards the front of the port. Skip to 3:30 or so

 

Please explain on how it is, because you guys just saying "you're wrong" without providing any explanation or reasoning behind it makes you just as clueless as me apparently.

And you're right...nothing is perfect, there are inconsistencies in the way an engine works and delivers air. But isn't the whole goal to minimize these so you can have an engine as consistent as possible? If I had the choice, I'd want to take advantage of anything out there that will help with these inconsistencies. By that, I'd rather have some nicely equal ports along with careful matching of the intake. No it's not perfect, but it's more consistent than some hogged out ports "matched" by the naked eye.

 

[QUOTE=Always2Slow;18288752]In as few words possible yes, especially when the head sees low air speeds. Xrated did a video when he was removing material from the short turn, its pretty simple. He just cut into it and then smoothed it. I would recommend taking 100 to 150 though by taking the short turn back. i'll make a video of it later this week when i do another set of 243 heads. Its literally like enlarging the bowl in that area towards the front of the port. Skip to 3:30 or so


Thanks for the direction. Im going to to wat h a few of his vids and practice on the junk heads I have. This is why I got two sets in case I screw up the junks I have a u touched set ready. I appreciate the guidance.

 

Assuming you have one good port, that you are happy with, a simple pair of dividers can be used to make the rest of the ports very close to the same.

I did exactly what Xrated shows in his video. Except I used a much less aggressive cutter......which made me go slow. For an inexperienced or first timer, that's a pretty aggressive tool.

Notice that he stayed away from the factory valve seat. You need to leave material there for the valve job inner angle. You would then carefully blend the valve job into the port throat.

The bowl, or the pocket as it's sometimes called, and the valve job is where the power is.

Keep grinding on your practice head. Watch these vids, study photos of modified stockers, and look at photos of aftermarket offerings as well if you can find them. Don't sweat the fact that you may have messed up a 243 head. It isn't like they only made a handful of them.....

In the end, you might say, I'm not up to this and send your good ones out. Only you can decide that.

I look forward to Always2slow's vid.

Ron

 

Thanks Ron I am definitely going to continue studying everything for sure. I am going to take all the advice and apply it to my work technics. I may just test these heads and get the extra set professionally ported. Having about of time being disabled gives me something new to learn. Much appreciated.

 

OK sense we are on the subject of heads and head porting how much more power would some prc cnc stage 3 6.0 heads make over the 243s?

 

Telescoping gauges and a dial caliper does wonders if you know how to use them. To answer your statement about inconsistencies within the motor. If we know cylinder 7 runs the leanest because it gets the most air could we therefore make that cylinder flow slightly less to equalize the engine under full throttle?

 

Aftermarket heads have a clear advantage over stock castings especially in the short turn. So if your referring to their aftermarket PRC offering there is no comparison assuming there is good meat in the casting. Its kind of like the age old 241 vs 243 comparison. Both can run well and make respectable power, but you can take one further than the next.

 

OK cool I'm thinking about going with those next summer vs the trick flows.

 

In my honest opinion you can't beat a set of hand worked TFS 220 as cast cylinder heads with turned down ls3 valves.

 

What's all need to make the trick flows work? Isn't there something else I would need to install them stock rails wouldn't work also would I be able to use stock rockers? ... now it's time for some research

 

Roller rockers or powdered metal guides.

 

You have to visualize water flowing through the port.

You have to start somewhere, I commend you on taking the plunge to learn. Good head porters have a 55 gallon drum full of scrap heads.

Read and research flow vs velocity.

 

At that point, depending on who's doing the hand work, you're probably getting into cnc 225-235 price territory.

 

Just in case people revisit this post I feel this is some important info


http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/0610phr-cylinder-head-porting