So I bought a stock ls1 crank from a member on here which was brand new. He stated in his thread it was stock other than being gun drilled. So I asked if my stock bearings would fit and he replied that they should because it's stock but obviously he would not truly know unless he had my bearings in hand. (Not sellers fault in anyway not blaming him)

So I went to install this and this is what my stock bearings look like when I sit them on top. I mean I could just toque them down but that's not a good idea. ( I'm assuming)

What's this look like to you guys am I good or what. I know people are going to post about machine shop which I called my local one and they are not geared up to look after it and closest engine rebuilders is 5 hour drive which is fine because I like doing my own stuff anyway.

 

DO NOT TORQUE them down, that will ruin either the crank or the cap/bearing. If you have a micrometer or caliper i would measure the crankshaft rod journal. It should measure 2.0991-2.0999' if its stock. Here is a sticky with all the factory specs https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...learances.html
Either the crank is wrong or the rod cap that you have is incorrect.

 

So weird though I have never (nor the seller) heard of an oversized crank from factory. I'll get the tool tonight and figure out what my sizes are thanks !

 

So looks like my stock bearings must be way off or the bearings that came in my used motor. Here are the photos showing my measurements. I'm hoping now that I dont need new rods and rod ends?

 

The first picture shows that the Rod Journal has been turned. The second pic was measured from your Main Journal.
Unless your calipers are way off...
All of the pictures of your crank look like crap. The second picture in your first post looks the worst like it's been used before.

Either way,
You need to let a mechanic set you up with what you need, or have them do the entire build for you if you. If you want it to last.

 

the first picture is what i measured for for rod journal. which is pretty damn close to stock. second photo is the measurement of my main. looks like all of the photos didnt get uploaded so ill try that in a second.

now you said all my pictures of my crank look like crap? what do you mean. the crank is brand new but the rods are used. so im really not sure what "looks like crap"

 

.017 is not pretty damn close. Something is bad wrong. You need to use a micrometer instead of calipers. What is the p/n and brand of the bearings.

 

i can take a look tonight but otherwise i have no idea what the p/n is on the bearings because they came in my used motor.

 

I didn't mean to insult you, or your crank.
At first glance, it looks like it's been ran in an engine, or, it's dirty and that's just assembly lube that makes it look that way. A new crank is shiny and new.

If your calipers are even "Close" to accurate, then they are WAY off from being stock.
As mentioned above, you'll want to use a Mic rather than calipers to get a real accurate reading. But, in this case I think you're better off having a professional either spec out the Main/Rod bearings for you, or look for another new crank to start with.

 

Yeah I don't really have a local spot to have take a look at it but I'll see if I can track down a micrometer

 

The part numbers are on the backs of the brgs... New or used.

 

Are these bearings used?

 

The crank hasn't been turned down? That's standard practice with a stock crank, especially a used one.

 

Thanks I'll pull the rod bearings and take a look tonight.


Okay the main bearings I just bought brand new. But the rod bearings are used. The mains fit awesome.

As far as I know this was a brand new unused crank.

 

So how much oil clearance are you getting with those main bearings?


Dude,
You are not going to be happy with the outcome if you continue any further with this build, considering all of the information supplied in this thread. You can't rely on your eyeballs to set the clearances.
That crank is Nowhere near spec and if you assemble it with stock replacement bearings, (Let alone USED rod bearings) you're going to ruin the crank even more after a couple of minutes of running and completely flush all of that rebuild $$$ down the drain. All $50 in new bearings.

 

Oh yeah I know I was never going to assemble this with used bearings after I saw how my rod bearings sat. I admit pistons are new to me and I would take rebuilding a rotary any day over this but I'm not a total tard and after the first reply I understood that I needed new bearings. Here are the measurements I got tonight.

First two are my rod bearing measurements and 3 and 4 are part numbers which I'm going to look up in a second. And the last is the reading I got off the old crank that was in the motor.

Piston engines are so picky... I have slapped a rotary together with 3 different types of seals and broken housings and irons and it ran deadly until you turn the boost up. Haha here I was thinking pistons where simple... Wake up call

 

Holy crap those are .040 bearings. That old crank must be worked...

You need a standard bearing

 

Thank god so I assume I just need the standard size for my new crank.

 

If your crank Mic's standard, then Yes.

Sorry But a mic is the correct way to accurately measure the Journals.

A caliper works, but I don't want you mad at me if you measure it wrong.

 

So by this it looks like 2.0802?