Thanks Darth. Like I said before, this is my daily driver and it's gotta go another 4-5 years before I can even begin to think about replacing it. I've taken in a lot of what people have said. I've done a ton of reading. I've used some of my own observations. I finally stopped and added it all up. Possibly wrong gaskets or sealing surface of the wrong RA or maybe even out of spec as far as flatness is concerned. Losing antifreeze at an extremely slow pace and seems to only happen after coming to operating temp and then cooling almost all the way down or completely. Also very random. When run up to operating temp and only shut off for short periods it doesn't smoke at all. I think my new plan addresses all of the concerns so we'll see what happens. Again, I appreciate all of the input. It's been very helpful.

 

Let me throw one more out there. Anybody using ARP head studs? What about ProComp Electronics version of them? What torque specs or methods are you using for them?

 

Let me put this out there to keep anyone else from making the same mistake. Don't buy anything from ASA Performance out of Columbus Georgia. Made the mistake of buying some ProComp Electronics knockoffs of ARP studs. Snapped like twigs. Company says it was my fault. ARP's go in the same way and torque to higher ft lb reading with no trouble. Don't waste your time or money with this Company or product.

 

New composite gaskets copper coated both sides, new ARP head studs.....same old problem. Drove 28 miles, engine up to full operating temperature. Shut off for a full 24 hours. Start it up and blows a big plume of white smoke. Beyond maddening.

 

Listen carefully .........buy a good coolant pressure tester. Pressure the system cold overnight and when you check the gauge on the pressure tester if its down pull ALL the spark plugs and find your coolant. If it doesn't do it cold then do the same hot. Could be a thin hairline crack in one of the cylinders. The tester is the only way to find something like this. Good Luck