I bought a used LS1 short block during the tear down I was going to look at the oil pump to make sure it doesn't have any trash in it. I thought I may as well do some porting work on it if it isn't to difficult to do or much room for error.

Anyways ... I got a few questions on it now. On the right side, looking at the front, there is a big allen head screw like thing, with a spring and plunger behind it. Any ideas what this does?

What should I do as far as porting it? Are there any hints I need to get this thing back together. The outside ring looks like it has a dot on it, but I didn't see one on the inside ring, is there a special way to line it up?

 

That would be the pressure relief valve you see. When the pressure goes too high, it opens and the excess oil pressure is bypassed. Theres no alignment on the inside gears.

All the proting you can do it just where the oil enters and where it leaves. Clean up the passages so they are smooth.

 

The dot faces forward, towards the front of the car when you put it back in. I don't know if the inner gear is symmetric or not, but I just made sure the wear pattern matched up between the inner and outer gears to make sure i put it in the same way it came out. Just pour some motor oil over the gears before you put them back in, no need to pack the pump with grease or anything. I wasn't sure about the torque for the oil pump cover bolts so i just used a torque wrench when taking them off and it was 150 in-lbs. I torqued them back to 150 in-lbs when putting it back on and used loctite on the bolt heads and it's worked so far.

 

10-4 on what P Mack says regarding porting and such. but I always use STP or GM Assembly lube when putting engines back together. as an added touch, I wait and make sure my temp gauge works, then drain the oil and strain it to check for any trash like rocks, bearings, or other chunks of metal. just my $.02.

 

Should I do somehting about the pressure relief valve to keep it from relieving as much pressure? Wouldn't tha tbe a bad thing if that's what I was doing?

 

Like the Jefferson's .... movin on up

 

No, I wouldn't. Some people shim the spring so it takes more pressure to open the valve, but the pump makes plenty of pressure as is. Any more pressure will just take more power from the engine.

 

Broke a bolt using 150 ft-lbs, I think I'm gonna try 120 once I get the bolt out and find another one. Anyone have a doner bolt?

Are there any gaskets to use for the pump or for the pump to the block? I don't remember pulling any off, but I thought that seemed a little strange.

 

Tell me you didnt try ft-lbs? Ill look it up. Its INCH pounds, not foot pounds.

 

HAHAHA oops .. typo, no I did use 150 inch pounds.

 

TQ spec is 106 inch pounds

 

Whoops, not trying to spread any bad info, 150 is just how much torque it took me to get them off, maybe they were loctited or something.

 

I can replace my 00 ls1 oil pump with an 02 LS6 oil pump with out any modding right?

 

Correct.

And yes, those bolts are always tough to remove. They have some sort of thread sealer on them from the factory.

Jason

 

Does the orientation of the bypass plunger matter? I noticed there were holes in it. Do those holes need to line up with the hole in the pump body?

 

I have an 99 and replaced my pump for a ls6 pump. I took the cover off of both units and I can see no difference at all. I would not waste time doing a home port. It crossed my mind, but there is not much alloy to port.

 

Do you still have the bolts off the old one??? I need one!

 

sent you a pm