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LS6 Build Overview - Input Request!

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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 07:39 AM
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Default LS6 Build Overview - Input Request!

Hey Guys!

I am doing an LS Swap on my G35 Coupe. The main goal is to have a streetable car. This is my DD, and it’s tracked 1-2 times a month. Going LS since I am tired of blowing the v6 blocks with FI!

The main goal is not maxed numbers, but good power under the curve, good low end torque. Not willing to sacrifice for top end.

I have bought the block, tranny, and a lot of the mods that are going in. But I wanted the experienced guys to go over my list and see if there are parts are not needed, and/or better/less expensive parts that can be replaced.


I will list it individually in case the guys who really wanna get into it to help me can copy paste the list and add comments, feel free to criticize any part and not just the Qs! I really appreciate it.

Purchased:

Block: LS6 from a 05 CTS-V, 80k miles
Tranny: T56 out of an '02 b4c z28 Camaro, stage 2 rebuilt package, Spec 3 clutch, Adjustable master, New slave, and BMR shifter

FAST 102 Intake Manifold prof. ported by Vengeance Racing
Nick Williams 102 Cable Driven Throttle Body

FAST Billet Fuel Rails
FAST 46lb Injectors
Gratinelli spark wires
NGK Iridium TR55 IX
Truck Coilpacks.

What I’m getting shortly:

Advanced Inductions will port my 243 heads, and do a matching 228/232-112 .626”

Spring Kit: BTR .660” capable dual spring kit w/ Titanium retainers
GM OEM Valve Seals
Advanced Inductions One Piece 4130 ChromeMoly Hardened Pushrods 5/16" & .080" Wall Thickness
GM OEM .051" Head Gaskets

Texas Speed Deluxe Gasket/Bolt Package:

 Cylinder Head Gaskets (Do I need Cosmetic?)
 Cylinder Head Bolts (Do I need ARP?)
 Timing Cover Gasket
 Valley Cover Gasket
 Oil Pump O-ring
 Balancer Pulley Bolt (need ARP?)
 Cometic Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (Pair)
 Water Pump Gaskets (Pair)
 Front Crankshaft Seal
 Intake Manifold Gasket Set (Fast)
 Valve Cover Gaskets
 EGR Gasket
 EGR Manifold Gasket

LS6 oil pump ported (should I go Melling high pressure? )
LS2 timing chain
LS7 lifters/ lifter trays

Long Tube Headers ( 1 7/8)
Custom 3” with Borla XR1 Dual Mufflers

Clutch: Monster Stage 2, 18 lb FW (selling Spec that came with tranny)

KRC PS Pump

Fuel System: Walbro 255, OEM Corvette Regulator

Here's a pic of the car in exchange for the help


Last edited by LS6G35.Swap; Sep 17, 2014 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 08:18 AM
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Looks good. I wouldn't say any ARP bolts are needed, but it wouldn't hurt. It might actually be easier to torque a new OEM balancer bolt rather than an ARP bolt though, unless you have access to a torque wrench that will go to 300ft-lbs.

The LS6 pump should be fine, but the Melling 10295 pump wouldn't hurt. The Melling 10296 may be too much pump for a stock shortblock though.

GM MLS headgaskets will be fine too. No need to go with the Cometics.
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 10:08 AM
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You're looking pretty solid from what I can see. I would go for the ARP head stud kit and Cometics though. Added security. Do it right the first time is what I say.
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 10:57 AM
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If you're buying the heads/cam kit from AI, they can hook you up with the gaskets/bolts you need. No need to buy things twice (as it appears you'd be doing by buying the TSP kit).

I'd go Cometics... but maybe the .045" and the APR head bolts are nice and easier to install than the GM bolts. I rented a 300ft/lbs torque wrench when I installed my ARP balancer bolt.

The Melling pumps are pretty good. But I don't think there is any issue going with a ported LS6 or LS4 pump. Hubbard Racing does a nice LS6 pump for $150 and I got my Synergy ported LS4 (the DOD high volume pump) for $179. I have 70psi oil pressure hot at idle with 15W50...
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 08:48 PM
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Your build sound good to me, except I go with a shorter .045" Cometic head gaskets like Jake suggested, and ARP head bolts and crank bolt.

BTW, there's NO 300 ft.lbs. tightening torque spec for the ARP crank bolt.
The ARP 234-2503 crank bolt TQ spec is 235 ft.lbs. This is with using ARP assembly lube on the bolt threads, under the head of the bolt, and on the bottom of the washer once its o the bolt.
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