Yes thats right... the 22ft lbs small top left head bolt hole stripped today....

not a clue. the stud didnt even want to thread all the way down into the block..

The stock head bolt still threads down and tightens..

(All other studs are torqued on the head)

What are my chances of getting away with just using the oem head bolt on the tiny top left hole? Think it will leak coolant right away?

I dont believe time sert makes a M8 kit for this job...

I ALREADY time serted all 20 of the main head bolt holes..

I'm at a loss now..

Suggestions?

 

bump need input .

 

Get a thread chaser and run it down the hole. If there are enough good threads left it may work. really you should always chase ALL the holes before reassembly. Thread chaser is made to clean and renew the threads without removing material like a tap would. Also check the threads on the stud carefully, they may be damaged in some way.

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/912-00...FUxo7AodxBMABw

 

Thank you for that, I got it tight but not to 22ft lbs, but it is holding after cleaning up.. Should be fine I'd imagine..

Now my next problem is a clutch pedal with no pressure after mating the engine/bellhousing back to the torque tube.. .Sigh.

 

I hope you have a remote bleeder line attached to that slave, sounds like the clutch master and slave need to be bled. That job is a PITA on an F-body without the remote line and impossible on a C5...

 

well I think it was my mistake.. I pushed on the clutch pedal the night before I installed the motor / clutch assy to the tube.. so at that point when I pressed down it was just an open torque tube...

what do I need to do now? Drop the Tube and replace slave?

 

If the slave was not mounted against the pressure plate or its piston constrained some way and you pushed the clutch pedal in it probably blew the slave's piston out. If so you should pull the trans and put on a new slave. . . along with a remote bleeder.