I snapped my balancer bolt in the crank... yeah yeah, not part of the question...

The engine is a forged 346. The rod bolts are ARP. I have read numerous threads on going from stock to arp on stock rods.
My question is, since I have SCAT rods with ARP rod bolts, can I reuse the same rod bolts without worrying about the SCAT rod needing to be resized. Do I still need to use assembly lube or oil to reassemble engine once crank work is done. I am not touching the bearing nor getting them out of order.

Just to clarify, I did read numerous threads on this similar subject, but none were for aftermarket rods with arp bolts.

 

Don't worry about it. The stock rods weren't originally machined for the increased clamp load of ARP bolts so it can cause some dimensional problems.

With aftermarket rods, the ID was machined with those ARP bolts installed so putting them back in should not change anything. Number your bearings, keep them clean, and put them in the same bores they came out of and it should be okay.

 

YES!!!!!! That's what I was hoping for! Along with reading plenty of your replies to the other threads and hoping you saw my thread. Thanks a bunch!

I plan on using plenty of brake clean. The blue "shop towels" should be fine for lint free?

 

Not sure I understand your question. So the Scat rods came with ARP bolts and nuts or capscrews ? Or did you change them out for some reason ?
They are usually good for several torque cycles which is why many engine builders prefer the stretch guage method to track the bolts pre torque length.
So if you're using the bolts that came in the rods from Scat then there should be no reason to resize the big end. This only comes into play with GM rods where changing the bolts to a stronger type can distort the big end shape due to a greater clamping force.

 

The previous owner built the engine with new scat rods and wiseco pistons. I believe he only upgraded the entire bottom end hardware because the engine is built for nitrous and a turbo setup (even thought he didn't upgrade the 10 bolt).

Also, what is the damn size for the rod bolts? I have so many tools, except a damn 12 pt. socket. 12mm? 3/8"?

 

I use regular old Brawny paper towels and acetone for cleaning internal parts.

Most likely, you have a 7/16" head on those bolts, but be sure to measure the diameter of the threaded portion of the bolt so you know what to torque the bolts to when it goes back together. The last thing you want to do is torque a 3/8" diameter bolt to a 7/16" diameter bolt specs.

 

Thanks, I plan on taking the red paint off the valve covers and putting a black crinkle finish.

I will get the arp bolt number off the head tomorrow morning when I get off duty and contact arp to see what the torque spec is since I don't have the instructions.

 

Assuming they're gen I rods with 8740 (not 2000) bolts, KCS what do you think....50 ft./lbs for 3/8" and 63 for 7/16"..??

 

Oh yeah, and I shouldn't need to plastigage for clearances again, right?

 

Sounds close, but I always look it up to be sure. If I remember correctly, SCAT uses a 7/16" ARP 2000 capscrew in the I beam and H beam LS1 rods, and will usually get about 75ft-lbs.

 

Mine are definitely bolts with 12pt head

 

Technically they're capscrews. Bolts are what the old school rods have that are pressed into the rod and nuts are used on the cap side. Not many people use the term capscrew, unless you're an engineer or you sell hardware for a living.

 

Thanks! lol

 

Hahaha, nice.