383 or 408?
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From: Somewhere in Mexico!
383 or 408? I'm working on a build idea for my 2000 Z28 and I'm trying to figure out which route to go with my motor. I know at some point I'd like to go with a stroker kit but I'm trying to decide which is a better option...383 or a 408. So, I'm looking for a bit of insight... Currently a stock LS1 with 130k miles on it.
Goals:
450-500whp on motor
750+ on boost
I do understand that H/C/I are a big player when it comes to making power and I will eventually get around to choosing them (currently leaning towards AFR 230 strip heads, VR Vindicator cam, FAST 102/102 setup). Streetability and driveability are big deals as most of it's life will be spent on the road.
Thoughts and opinions?
Goals:
450-500whp on motor
750+ on boost
I do understand that H/C/I are a big player when it comes to making power and I will eventually get around to choosing them (currently leaning towards AFR 230 strip heads, VR Vindicator cam, FAST 102/102 setup). Streetability and driveability are big deals as most of it's life will be spent on the road.
Thoughts and opinions?
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From: Mississippi
A mamo touched 408 Would bring the pain to most on the street..... but if you let him do the heads and intake you might as well let him cut you a cam to match those heads and intake. I think personally think he will spec you a smaller cam than the vindicator and possibly make even more power. Bigger cam is not always best especially since you mention street manners is important. Tony said in a older post he can get a combo put together that will lay waste to most but docile enough to take out your girlfriend on a date without surging and in my book that's just awesome.
Bigger cubes are always better if you're chasing that. If you use a LS2 block and don't mind the cost it's the way to go. If you're comparing an iron block to your LS1 you should figure in if you want the extra 100# on the nose. I tried to keep my budget as in check as I could. I realized that no matter how many HP I got out of it someone will have more and I made a combo that's just fun to run on the street and is no slouch.
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On The Tree
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From: Somewhere in Mexico!
As this is a long term build, I might actually pick up an LS2 block and build up a beefy 408 and just do bolt ons, cam, and maybe a set of worked LS6 heads for the stock motor. It'll give me time to figure it out.
Speaking of blocks... Would it be worth doing the 408 to the stock LS1 block, pick up an LS2 block, or a used LQ4?
Speaking of blocks... Would it be worth doing the 408 to the stock LS1 block, pick up an LS2 block, or a used LQ4?
Last edited by mad-hatter; Dec 30, 2014 at 04:14 PM.
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For the cost of the LS2 block, just pick up the LS3. The internals all cost the same. Roughly $2500 for a decent rotating assembly. The rest of the cost comes from the machine work, blueprinting, and the block itself.
The difference between a 383 and 408 isn't much. Maybe 25ft/lbs and maybe that much HP if you're lucky. The weight difference is 90lbs tho. That's why I'd look at the LS2/LS3... same weight as the LS1 but a lot more cubes. The LS3 block is the best overall platform for a street/strip motor. It's considerably less than an LS7 block and provides a lot more over the LS2 for about $100 more. It is more costly than an iron block, but it provides more cubes (not all iron blocks can be punched out to 4.065" or more) and less weight.
The difference between a 383 and 408 isn't much. Maybe 25ft/lbs and maybe that much HP if you're lucky. The weight difference is 90lbs tho. That's why I'd look at the LS2/LS3... same weight as the LS1 but a lot more cubes. The LS3 block is the best overall platform for a street/strip motor. It's considerably less than an LS7 block and provides a lot more over the LS2 for about $100 more. It is more costly than an iron block, but it provides more cubes (not all iron blocks can be punched out to 4.065" or more) and less weight.
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Not sure if you're aware, but to do a 408ci using an LS1 or LS2 will require resleeving the block. Darton, ERL or RED is the way to go in terms of sleeved blocks. But going that route gets very expensive. The most I'd recommend with a factory LS2 is a .005 clean up/hone. With a 4.00" stroke, that will give you a 403ci. For a 408 I would definitely go iron LQ4/9 block.
Last edited by Holeshot 346; Dec 30, 2014 at 04:57 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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It all depends on what you want the car to drive like.
I know that this might be a strange notion, but there is such a thing as over powering your car.
You should be able to make more than enough power for a really stout daily driver with either engine.
For what it seems like you want, I would do whichever one costs less.
You'll be smoking street tires anyway..
I know that this might be a strange notion, but there is such a thing as over powering your car.
You should be able to make more than enough power for a really stout daily driver with either engine.
For what it seems like you want, I would do whichever one costs less.
You'll be smoking street tires anyway..
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From: Katy, TX
As others have said, the 383 makes plenty of power, nothing wrong with that setup. But why not go a little bigger for about the same money?
A 383 does not increase bore diameter from a 346 and only ends up being about 800.00 cheaper then a LS2/LS3(unless you use your existing LS1 block, the difference is closer to 2k)...a LS3 block is only 100.00 more then a LS2 for another 10-15whp. Imo it would be a no brainer to do a 418 LS3 if you are not going to rebuild your LS1. That is what I am going to do if I build another motor. With a decent size cam and a good set of worked 243's, guys are getting 530+ whp with 500 wtq on a 418. Step up to a much better head and 570+ whp can be had.
The overall cost is roughly the same for 383 or a 402 408 etc. To do it right you're going to be spending about $10k any way you slice it. When I started my build I was incorrectly assuming the 383 would be cheaper.
As others have said, the 383 makes plenty of power, nothing wrong with that setup. But why not go a little bigger for about the same money?
As others have said, the 383 makes plenty of power, nothing wrong with that setup. But why not go a little bigger for about the same money?
My 383 (including my repaired/machined LS1 block) only cost me about $5,000. I already had intake, injectors, etc so that was for repair, rotating assem, cam, lifters, oil pump, chain set, gaskets and fluids. Going bigger woud have cost me $1,000 more and for some of us that's real money. 
I must have done it wrong then. My 383 (including my repaired/machined LS1 block) only cost me about $5,000. I already had intake, injectors, etc so that was for repair, rotating assem, cam, lifters, oil pump, chain set, gaskets and fluids. Going bigger woud have cost me $1,000 more and for some of us that's real money.
My 383 (including my repaired/machined LS1 block) only cost me about $5,000. I already had intake, injectors, etc so that was for repair, rotating assem, cam, lifters, oil pump, chain set, gaskets and fluids. Going bigger woud have cost me $1,000 more and for some of us that's real money.
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From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
No replacement for displacement.
Back in the day, long before any of this LT/LS stuff, I'd seen a guy with a Motown 454 smallblock chevy. Purred like a kitten and sounded like a bone stock 350. He laid waste to everyone. The at the end of the night, he told everyone what it was. That car was stupid fast.
LS2 blocks are getting cheap. I picked up mine for $400.
However, for boost I would lean towards an iron block. The aluminum blocks can handle a lot of power, but things start moving and expanding. I feel like the iron blocks handle more power better. I think a 403ci iron block based stroker would work best. You would be able to hit your goal of 450whp pretty easily and may not have to change much once you decide to boost it to hit 750whp. A cam and head gasket swap would probably be it.
However, for boost I would lean towards an iron block. The aluminum blocks can handle a lot of power, but things start moving and expanding. I feel like the iron blocks handle more power better. I think a 403ci iron block based stroker would work best. You would be able to hit your goal of 450whp pretty easily and may not have to change much once you decide to boost it to hit 750whp. A cam and head gasket swap would probably be it.