Heads and cam vs cam only for my n20 setup
Hey guys I have been searching around for a while, and decided for me a nitrous setup would be a way to go. I will be running a t56 ls1 gto. I want to do it because its fairly different compared to the F-bodies, and c5's not saying that the gto is a better platform its just different especially around my area...anyway... I have decided on a simple 100-125 shot setup, with full bolt ons, suspension, 1 piece drive shaft, and some other pieces im getting should be a fun track car, not looking to bracket race now so the auto idea will sit.
What i need help with is selecting a head and cam package that will work for what im doing. I dont want to get into cutting the pistons as I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it so my question is, what would you guys do. Run a cam that is more on the small side to use aftermarket heads, or use the stock 241 castings I believe on a larger cam shaft? I know measuring is always good but im sure some people would know what will cause PTV issues, and which wouldn't. Im shooting for 500 whp on the shot so which ever gets me close to the goal, and would be best for a track application please let me know. not worried about low end torque or street manor's.
What i need help with is selecting a head and cam package that will work for what im doing. I dont want to get into cutting the pistons as I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it so my question is, what would you guys do. Run a cam that is more on the small side to use aftermarket heads, or use the stock 241 castings I believe on a larger cam shaft? I know measuring is always good but im sure some people would know what will cause PTV issues, and which wouldn't. Im shooting for 500 whp on the shot so which ever gets me close to the goal, and would be best for a track application please let me know. not worried about low end torque or street manor's.
Also do you guys think I would pick up much from swapping to something like a 4l80e or th400 with a proper converter? Or should i just stay stick for a fun track car for now? let me know if it would be worth swapping over thanks!
the automatic takes a lot of driver error out of the mix thus making the car more consistent but the stick keeps a guy busy and is a lot of fun until it breaks... auto trans doesn't shock the tires as hard so less wheel spin if running drag radials. I have an LT car with t56 running nitrous and it seems that it all depends on how I am running the clutch as to how quick my 60 ft times are, where my brother's car has an auto and does the same thing every time. I personally like the stick because I do drive on the street once in a while, but I will be switching over to a lenco st1200 next winter
You'll never see 500 rwhp with LS6 heads. Just not going to happen!! If you stick with a 6 speed which is better in my opinion you can get close to 500 or maybe barely crack if using some great heads such as a mamo/afr ported head, ported intake and a healthy cam!!
Remember that the heads is the lungs of the motor.... it NEEDS in inhale (intake) and exhale(exhaust).
Remember that the heads is the lungs of the motor.... it NEEDS in inhale (intake) and exhale(exhaust).
TECH Fanatic




Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 252
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Budget build, TEA 243,s with turned down LS3 valves, BTR springs,
FAST 92, GM 90 MM TB, BTR stage II Cam 227*/234* probably
make ~420 RWHP NA with supporting mods.
No budget build, MMS 220's with light valves, MAMOFIED FAST 102, NW 102 TB, ARH 1 7/8 LTs, Same cam, great w N2O, supporting details
~480+ RWHP NA, 600+ W/ 125 shot.
FAST 92, GM 90 MM TB, BTR stage II Cam 227*/234* probably
make ~420 RWHP NA with supporting mods.
No budget build, MMS 220's with light valves, MAMOFIED FAST 102, NW 102 TB, ARH 1 7/8 LTs, Same cam, great w N2O, supporting details
~480+ RWHP NA, 600+ W/ 125 shot.
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Thanks for the input guys, I don't see why you couldn't see 500 whp with a cam only setup and nitrous on ls6 heads. No I don't have any particular budget, would like to keep my parts under 10k. I have most of the bolt on's looking for heads, cam, nitrous setup now, oh yeah and a FAST.
you can use the nitrous to push you over the top no problem. with a good nitrous cam you can gain some really good horsepower and torque, but I would get it dyno tuned to get the full benefit of it and to make sure the fuel ratios are right on all of the way through. I had to ramp in the nitrous for first gear to help keep me from lighting the nitto drag radials up, but they are on 17" wheels so nut much side wall to absorb the hit... just be ready, shift light for 2nd comes on pretty quick.
Thanks guys, also from what I heard you can run a bigger cam with aftermarket castings, like lets say an AFR 220 because of offset valve angles is this true? If so I will go with some type of aftermarket casting.
TECH Fanatic




Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 252
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
AFR & MMS Heads have the stock valve angles, however the benefit
Of the port designs will provide more HP, and Driveability with a smaller
Cam, check out the thread on the new MMS 220 Heads, allot of
Info in there including the +s & -s, of different valve angles.
Also AFR makes 215, Tony Mamo (MMS) makes the 220, basically
a CNC version of his, MAMOFIED" AFR 215s, CNC and then Hand Perfected
( AKA, MAMOFIED LOL )
Of the port designs will provide more HP, and Driveability with a smaller
Cam, check out the thread on the new MMS 220 Heads, allot of
Info in there including the +s & -s, of different valve angles.
Also AFR makes 215, Tony Mamo (MMS) makes the 220, basically
a CNC version of his, MAMOFIED" AFR 215s, CNC and then Hand Perfected
( AKA, MAMOFIED LOL )


