piston placement
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piston placement I was disassembling my engine and mistakenly mixed which piston came from what cylinder. Does it matter which cylinder the piston goes in, if so is there any pointers to get me back on track. Thanks in advance.
After cleaning all the pistons and rods; look for the small dot or divet on the top of each as those face the front of the engine. So 4 of them will only go on the pass side and the other 4 on the driver's side.
Now if you mixed up the rod caps then you're in quite a bit of trouble. Those have to stay with that rod and bearing tangs go together and face the oil pan rail when looking at them with the engine on the stand and upside down.
Also have a machine shop check the rod big ends after you clean them. Even the factory bolts getting re-torqued can slightly deform the big ends. The shop can just hone them on the Sunnen machine a few strokes to straighten them out without going beyond the max standard big end size spec.
It helps if they are full floating for the shop to remove them, in which case I'd even have the piston pin bores and rod bushing clearances honed and opened up a bit ( few tenths of a thousandth).
It's just a bit of a pain in the shorts if they are press fit for the shop to fix the big ends as the bulky piston complicates the honing process but they may just charge you a tad more or give ya some **** about it.
As far as which piston goes in which particular bore won't really matter here if you're having the cylinders honed for fresh rings. When people have a block bored over and honed, most shops prefer the pistons so they can measure each one and set the piston to wall clearance the same for each cylinder as they can vary a few tenths....even on expensive stuff.
Now if you mixed up the rod caps then you're in quite a bit of trouble. Those have to stay with that rod and bearing tangs go together and face the oil pan rail when looking at them with the engine on the stand and upside down.
Also have a machine shop check the rod big ends after you clean them. Even the factory bolts getting re-torqued can slightly deform the big ends. The shop can just hone them on the Sunnen machine a few strokes to straighten them out without going beyond the max standard big end size spec.
It helps if they are full floating for the shop to remove them, in which case I'd even have the piston pin bores and rod bushing clearances honed and opened up a bit ( few tenths of a thousandth).
It's just a bit of a pain in the shorts if they are press fit for the shop to fix the big ends as the bulky piston complicates the honing process but they may just charge you a tad more or give ya some **** about it.
As far as which piston goes in which particular bore won't really matter here if you're having the cylinders honed for fresh rings. When people have a block bored over and honed, most shops prefer the pistons so they can measure each one and set the piston to wall clearance the same for each cylinder as they can vary a few tenths....even on expensive stuff.
