rebuild help cam&heads
Ok so my 99 camaro ls1 115000miles started smoking and burning oil so I decided to have it honed and put new rings in and bearings I have stock 853heads debating on keeping them or thinking about getting some 799 heads and putting in a bigger cam so my questions are
What is a good size cam? Was thinking one of comp cams lsr? Was hoping to just order a whole kit this car is my daily driver but I drive like its a race course(all the time)so would like the cam on bigger side of daily driver
Any suggestions or input would be great
I know there is a lot of info all ready on here but just way to much info lol
Have any questions just ask Iwill try to answer quick
I have some money to spend but I am not rich
What is a good size cam? Was thinking one of comp cams lsr? Was hoping to just order a whole kit this car is my daily driver but I drive like its a race course(all the time)so would like the cam on bigger side of daily driver
Any suggestions or input would be great
I know there is a lot of info all ready on here but just way to much info lol
Have any questions just ask Iwill try to answer quick
I have some money to spend but I am not rich
Last edited by mngoos; May 15, 2015 at 10:38 PM.
Automatic or manual trans? That will dictate other mods you'll need like a better clutch or torque converter.
Get an estimate on the rebuild. Sometimes you're better off buying low mileage used or new short blocks. I just sold a brand new, factory sealed LQ4 6.0 long block for $2150.
As for DD friendly cams, I've seen lots of people recommend the 228 from TSP.
Ultimately it will just depend on how much money you actually have in mind to spend. Everyone's idea of a budget is different.
Get an estimate on the rebuild. Sometimes you're better off buying low mileage used or new short blocks. I just sold a brand new, factory sealed LQ4 6.0 long block for $2150.
As for DD friendly cams, I've seen lots of people recommend the 228 from TSP.
Ultimately it will just depend on how much money you actually have in mind to spend. Everyone's idea of a budget is different.
A good number for daily driveable but fun as hell is in the 224-228 range on intake duration. That puts you in the titan4 from cammotion, the Saturday night special torquemax from tick, the VRX4 from vengeance. All three of those have threads with tons of positive feedback on them.
Agree with sawblade on the shortblock. That 6.0 bore area will surprise you how much difference it makes on airflow.
799 heads are a good option. Might also want to price having your 853's ported out. You can port out 853 and 241 heads to perform close to ported 243/799 heads.
Agree with sawblade on the shortblock. That 6.0 bore area will surprise you how much difference it makes on airflow.
799 heads are a good option. Might also want to price having your 853's ported out. You can port out 853 and 241 heads to perform close to ported 243/799 heads.
Ok thank you
So I have thought about going the lq9 route I can get one from pick a part for $1700
Having my ls1 honed and cam bearings is running $200
I can get the 799 heads off ebay for 450 with shipping
So I have thought about going the lq9 route I can get one from pick a part for $1700
Having my ls1 honed and cam bearings is running $200
I can get the 799 heads off ebay for 450 with shipping
Do this from Vengeance with the VRX4. It's 1269.99 with the Tool Steel retainers and includes everything you need: http://vengeanceracing.net/vengeance...-kit-plus.html
Grab this from TSP. $1249.99 with no valve springs. Add a set of GM MLS gaskets. Have TSP mill to 62cc: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-4345-p...-outright.aspx
Add a Monster Stage 2 Clutch from Tick with the Tick Master $1099.99: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
TSP 1-7/8" Headers and Y-Pipe w/Magnaflow (it'll flow good and be quiet enough to daily drive if you don't already have an exhaust).
TSP Headers (get with Y-Pipe, TR55 spark plugs, O2 ext, and gaskets) $612.50: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-291-te...e-headers.aspx
Magnaflow Exhaust $480: http://rpmmotorsportsnc.com/i-139949...02-f-body.html
Add these Morel Lifters $199: http://www.briantooleyracing.com/mor...x-engines.html
Fuel Injectors $299 (these are Bosch GM injectors from the 3.8L Supercharged motor and used in the GM ASA Race Car - so there is a ton of GOOD data on them): http://www.briantooleyracing.com/fas...ck-303608.html
You'd be good to go with that setup with an LS6 intake.
In fact, if I buy another F-Body, I'm probably doing exactly that for cheap money. It's probably hit 430-440rwhp with good torque.
Grab this from TSP. $1249.99 with no valve springs. Add a set of GM MLS gaskets. Have TSP mill to 62cc: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-4345-p...-outright.aspx
Add a Monster Stage 2 Clutch from Tick with the Tick Master $1099.99: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
TSP 1-7/8" Headers and Y-Pipe w/Magnaflow (it'll flow good and be quiet enough to daily drive if you don't already have an exhaust).
TSP Headers (get with Y-Pipe, TR55 spark plugs, O2 ext, and gaskets) $612.50: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-291-te...e-headers.aspx
Magnaflow Exhaust $480: http://rpmmotorsportsnc.com/i-139949...02-f-body.html
Add these Morel Lifters $199: http://www.briantooleyracing.com/mor...x-engines.html
Fuel Injectors $299 (these are Bosch GM injectors from the 3.8L Supercharged motor and used in the GM ASA Race Car - so there is a ton of GOOD data on them): http://www.briantooleyracing.com/fas...ck-303608.html
You'd be good to go with that setup with an LS6 intake.
In fact, if I buy another F-Body, I'm probably doing exactly that for cheap money. It's probably hit 430-440rwhp with good torque.
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^That's why a budget range would help. You don't have to show us your bank account lol just give us an idea of what you'd like to spend on this project. That will help us give you better ideas that will fit in your budget.
For that money -
Port your heads plus slight mill to true them up or just get the 799s and drop them in. Titan 4 or VRX4 or Tick SNS cam kit. LS6 intake if you don't already have one. Long Tube Headers and Y-pipe. Street tune.
If you want to save some money on not getting springs and stuff, you could get a drop in cam from cam motion. You won't get the power that you would out of the bigger cams, but you'd save $500 or so.
You'll need a few hundred set aside for head gaskets, head bolts, coolant, oil, water pump gaskets, valve cover gaskets
Port your heads plus slight mill to true them up or just get the 799s and drop them in. Titan 4 or VRX4 or Tick SNS cam kit. LS6 intake if you don't already have one. Long Tube Headers and Y-pipe. Street tune.
If you want to save some money on not getting springs and stuff, you could get a drop in cam from cam motion. You won't get the power that you would out of the bigger cams, but you'd save $500 or so.
You'll need a few hundred set aside for head gaskets, head bolts, coolant, oil, water pump gaskets, valve cover gaskets
Man I just can't help but think that if you're wanting to do this right...it's gonna cost more to rebuild than buy another. Haven't had to do it myself, but I did look into rebuilding mine. And the all said and done price of doing that pushed me to buy new instead. I still think you're better off finding a used 6.0 and spending the rest of your cash on a few nice upgrades for that.
But if you're dead set on rebuilding your ls1, let us know what it winds up costing. I'm truly curious because I'm considering a budget rebuild on mine to drop in another project later on.
But if you're dead set on rebuilding your ls1, let us know what it winds up costing. I'm truly curious because I'm considering a budget rebuild on mine to drop in another project later on.
Personally.... I noticed you mention road coarse... I would rebuild the ls1 and go from there. A 6.0 (LQ4/LQ9) motor would add a 100 pounds to the nose which isn't good on the road coarse.
Now if you can get your hands on a ls2 6.0 motor out a GTO that would be awesome. You'll have the 6.0 displacement and keep the nose light. Best of both worlds there!!
Plus down the road you'll have more head options over the ls1 due to the bigger bore.
Now if you can get your hands on a ls2 6.0 motor out a GTO that would be awesome. You'll have the 6.0 displacement and keep the nose light. Best of both worlds there!!
Plus down the road you'll have more head options over the ls1 due to the bigger bore.
^ if it is smoking at least new rings are in order.
As far as the rest, there is alot we can assist you with from a custom or off shelf cam and valvetrain to the lowest price on cat backs and show you some good budget headers as well. Email me at tech.support@coloradospeed.com or pm me and we can be your one stop shop!
As far as the rest, there is alot we can assist you with from a custom or off shelf cam and valvetrain to the lowest price on cat backs and show you some good budget headers as well. Email me at tech.support@coloradospeed.com or pm me and we can be your one stop shop!
You need to add up all the parts for a rebuild before you decide where to spend money, because a real rebuild will add up fast.
I would start with the basics and expect to do these regardless of your plans for heads or cam or whatever:
("a" obviously comes before 1 when you realize you don't want to re-number everything because you forgot something at the end)
a) Make a list of all the parts that need to be replaced, add up the prices, and subtract from the $3000 you have, that new smaller number is your aftermarket heads/cam budget
1) Have a machine shop hot tank the block, heads, oil pan, front and rear covers, etc
2) Have a machine shop polish (or cut if necessary) the crank to size for new bearings
3) Have a machine shop install new cam bearings in block
4) Have a machine shop resize the rods for new bearings if required
5) Have a machine shop check the bores and advise if you can get away with a light hone and new rings and oil-ring (I've done lots of re-rings on used pistons with no problems)
6) Clean pistons and check skirts for excessive wear, if the pistons look good, just re-use them with a light hone in the cylinders to break the glaze and help seat the rings
7) Gap the rings correctly
8) Replace the oil pump and o-ring with a new LS6 kit, replace the rear dog bone oil bypass plug with the new style that doesn't pop out
9) Replace the timing chain with a new LS2 unit at minimum
10) Install new valve springs on whatever heads you choose with good aftermarket, assuming that was not done already
11) Have a good valve job done, if the heads are used, plan on checking the guides
12) Install new lifter trays if not using link bar lifters
13) Replace all the seals and gaskets in the engine
14) New head bolts, etc
The list above does not even mention a clutch or cutting a flywheel or hydraulics, which you may want to consider.
Make sure to create the list, otherwise there is a lot of stuff which is not exciting and will be overlooked. IE: valve seals, valve cover seals, knock sensor seals, front and rear crank seals, etc. All cost money and should be replaced given the mileage.
I would start with the basics and expect to do these regardless of your plans for heads or cam or whatever:
("a" obviously comes before 1 when you realize you don't want to re-number everything because you forgot something at the end)
a) Make a list of all the parts that need to be replaced, add up the prices, and subtract from the $3000 you have, that new smaller number is your aftermarket heads/cam budget
1) Have a machine shop hot tank the block, heads, oil pan, front and rear covers, etc
2) Have a machine shop polish (or cut if necessary) the crank to size for new bearings
3) Have a machine shop install new cam bearings in block
4) Have a machine shop resize the rods for new bearings if required
5) Have a machine shop check the bores and advise if you can get away with a light hone and new rings and oil-ring (I've done lots of re-rings on used pistons with no problems)
6) Clean pistons and check skirts for excessive wear, if the pistons look good, just re-use them with a light hone in the cylinders to break the glaze and help seat the rings
7) Gap the rings correctly
8) Replace the oil pump and o-ring with a new LS6 kit, replace the rear dog bone oil bypass plug with the new style that doesn't pop out
9) Replace the timing chain with a new LS2 unit at minimum
10) Install new valve springs on whatever heads you choose with good aftermarket, assuming that was not done already
11) Have a good valve job done, if the heads are used, plan on checking the guides
12) Install new lifter trays if not using link bar lifters
13) Replace all the seals and gaskets in the engine
14) New head bolts, etc
The list above does not even mention a clutch or cutting a flywheel or hydraulics, which you may want to consider.
Make sure to create the list, otherwise there is a lot of stuff which is not exciting and will be overlooked. IE: valve seals, valve cover seals, knock sensor seals, front and rear crank seals, etc. All cost money and should be replaced given the mileage.






