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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 08:25 AM
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Default Aftermarket head bolts

As the title says, My junkyard LQ 9 ended up being JUNK, two cylinders had water damage, oil control rings were all stuck. So it's now fresh 30 over, complete heads redone ect.

My budget is now maxed! The engine builder included, Felpro head gaskets, and Engine Pro head bolts. I can't find any info on the heads bolts. Any thought? They look like the stock ones I took out.

Heads are ready to go on!
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 08:28 AM
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Ebays work fine.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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Ebays, can you elaborate on what product?
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 09:27 AM
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Depends on your end result, Boost or N/A build? If you are just running N/A I would get the arp pro series cylinder head bolt set. What year engine? I just installed them on my 5.3 to get away from the stock TTY head bolts and they were awesome! The year Depends on the price though. The 99-early 04 with the different length head bolts are a little more the than the late 04 and on head bolts.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 10:18 AM
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Daily driver N/A
2002 engine, it has 3 different size head bolts
So the ARP are not TTY?

My gut instinct says....buy the ARP

Last edited by DieselDriver; Jun 1, 2015 at 10:33 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselDriver
As the title says, My junkyard LQ 9 ended up being JUNK, two cylinders had water damage, oil control rings were all stuck. So it's now fresh 30 over, complete heads redone ect.

My budget is now maxed! The engine builder included, Felpro head gaskets, and Engine Pro head bolts. I can't find any info on the heads bolts. Any thought? They look like the stock ones I took out.

Heads are ready to go on!
Check with your machinist and see what he recommends. If it were me, I would have already determined what head bolts before the cylinders were honed, assuming a torque plate is used.

Either bolt works fine. The ARP's are cost effective if you plan on removing the heads several times. If not, the TTY bolts work exceptionally well too.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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If you are putting the engine together on a stand(which sounds like you are), the TTY will be fine. The only reason I say this is because ARP are much easier to install when working in a F-body engine bay. That is the main reason why I went ARP instead of TTY.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 12:13 PM
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The torque plate was used!
Yes, building it on the stand

My main concern is....
1 The brand of head bolt (can't find anyone who used them)
2 TTY (I have never done tty before, I do have the tty torque wrench

The whole TTY seems like snake oil to me. I've done plenty of SBC with aluminum heads and ARP's

Any one have link for how to properly torque the TTY bolts for a 2002 engine?

Last edited by DieselDriver; Jun 1, 2015 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 12:40 PM
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TTY isn't snake oil at all. It's supposed to be more accurate since it virtually eliminates the friction variable which could interfere with a torque reading, as long as it's done correctly.

The TTY specs should be pretty easy to find if you search google. I use the key words "LS1 Torque Specs" and you'll find just about anything you need from a LS1HowTo site.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 06:53 PM
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Well using LS1 torque specs I get a variation of at least three different ways! Not sure what to believe?

I also read people breaking head bolts on thier install, with all the variations on the interweb
I can see why...

22ft lbs in sequence
All 90*
All but medium 90*
Medium 50*
Small head bolts 22lbs

22ft lbs
76* all long
Med 76* + 34*
Shorts 22ft lbs

22ft lbs
All 90*
All 90*
Medium 50*
Shorts 22ft lb
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