Yes they are worth it, cuz isn't finding another reason for wrenchin worth it!? Lshowto web site will explain why it's worth it and how to install YT's like a pro. Much better info then everyone puttin in their 2 cents on here 😎. I installed them and they are awesome. Do it son!

 

Couldn't hurt. For the few extra bucks it's definitely worth it. Especially if you want a max effort true sbe car.

 

The SLP 1.85 rockers are not full rollers. They are based on the stock LS1 rocker design(look almost identical), but redesigned with a full roller bearing trunion that allows 10% more lift. They have been dyno proven to increase power roughly 9whp and 17wtq on a basically stock LS1. On a LS6 I would expect more. Second, they are not 1000.00. That price is the ENTIRE kit that includes rockers, springs, and titanium retainers. I have seen used sets sell for around 450.00.

My car has had a set of SLP 1.85's installed since 3,000mi on the odometer...now it has 17,000mi. They worked great on my bolt on setup and they are working great on my h/c/i setup.

 

Thanks, that's good info.

How did you like the quality of the springs with the SLP kit?

 

I have had Scorpion 1.7 roller rockers on my LS6 HCI for a while now but I have a combo set up arround em, Lunati voodoo cam 232 238 599 601 on a 113 lsa that has easy ramps on the exhaust side LS6 lightweight valves in my 243 's comp hi tech pushrods and BTR 660 spring kit with titanium retainers and LS7 lifters. I tell you what this thing is quiet and smooth as heck! As long as you set up arround em to control the extra weight over the valve and don't go with real aggressive cam lobes go for it the Scorpions have been perfect for me but personally wait till you have full Bolton and HCI.

 

Again, just ME, but I'd take the bit of additional weight, "beef" if you will, of the Scorpions over the YT's.

A lot depends on WHERE that extra weight is. If it's over the nose then yes, you need a better spring / PR to counter it.

Even YT's revision 3 have broken. I've yet to see a Scorpion Rev3 break. That, and I'm partial to USA made.

Shaft mount, T&D all day.

 

Pretty sure they are just comp 918 beehives. They are still on my old 241's. I now have PAC duals on my TEA's.

 

Good to know. I'll stay away from those.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...omp-918-a.html

 

One things I've always wanted look into was the friction aspect. There so much side loading with the stock rockers (supposedly) that you can't use bronze guides without excessive wear. Roller tip rockers alleviate that side loading, which probably frees up a considerable amount of power from frictional losses, especially as RPM increases.

 

Not worth the money. The only thing you need to do to stock rockers to handle well over 1000hp is a trunion upgrade for reliability.

 

No ones aruging the stock ones wont support 1k hp. Were saying that upgrading to a higher ratio RR increase hp and tq and the fact of the matter is that it does.... if you kept the same ratio there will probably be some increase because you arent side loading the valve, however would that difference be enough to see on a dyno? Most likely not and it wouldnt make a difference. However a 1.8 rocker is a worthwhile upgrade if the op isnt going to cam the car.

 

I can't believe more people aren't agreeing with you lol.

 

Not to mention less friction on the valve tip and guides.

 

LOL that's perfectly ok, no one really goes the max effort route. People usually just jump to a cam before anything else. Then wonder why it runs like ****, usually its because they skipped a lot of supporting mods and attention to small details.

A lot of the people here are bashing RR's but have never tried them much less even held them in their hands. On an ls engine I'll be the first to agree a 1.7 RR will not do anything for power, measurable power anyway maybe 3 hp however it will smooth out the valve action given things are kept in control.

I was challenged to produce graphs and I did. I'd like to see more than 1 example of someone doing 1.8 rockers and not gaining power....I'll wait. People believe just what they read, very few have actually tried it, this is where you get the sheeple effect, and it runs rampant here in certain ways.

I get lots of questions from people asking how I made so much power with a cam only ls6 and then again with a bolt on ls3 and how I beat my buddies nasty H/C lq9 setup....The answer is simple. I did a lot of things most other people consider a waste of time/money.

Electric WP, Light clutch, Larger headers, true duals, Carbon Ds, Magnesium Wheels, Fast 102 as opposed to a 92. lighter parts where applicable. All the "little" stuff that people say doesn't do anything is usually what ends up costing them the race against someone who didn't listen to the masses. I find it much more satisfying to push the limits of a mild setup than just go all out to make a tad more power...

I'm getting ready to send my ls3 intake off to cbm to have it worked as well as doing a set of yt 1.85 rockers later on....I'll bet my bottom dollar those 2 mods pick up 20-25whp all day long. I'm sorry if that post sounded like I was tooting my own horn but I feel most of it is true lol.

 

Great post redbird.

Any reason why you're going with CBM instead of PeakSpeed? You're talking porting?

 

This, and the only reason id do a 1.85 aftermarket would be if I was keeping a stock cam, like forever. For any other reason they dont make a lot of sense.

 

Send me some LS3 Yella Terras and I'll do back-to-back dyno comparisons.

 

I'm not trying to start a pissing match here. I was hoping for some members to post that have actually installed them and what gains they saw.

My last build was *** backwards. I didn't do any research and wasn't a member on here when I purchased my cam.

Doing research pays off and saves a little money.

 

CBM and Rick Crawford do something different. Porting the ls3 intake is very trickyl and often results in losses in certain places or very little gains. The process here involves porting the intake very lightly but then adding radius bars like this one from Crawford. It helps redirect the air up into the runners. This design thorugh my research is the ONLY one to gets consistent gains no matter the setup. Bolt on cars see 5-7whp and 10ft lbs. Although gains under the curve can be nearing 10/10.


Exactly lol do a google search and you will find plenty of info. 1.8's work well if you aren't going to cam the car.

 

"1.8's work well if you aren't going to cam the car."

I think that is the issue at hand and to cut to the chase.