Cam Question...
This is not going to be another which cam question, but rather should I roll with my current grind or the newly spec'd unit?
I currently have everything sitting and waiting as life got in the way and everything car related had to take an extreme back seat.
- 223-227 617/598 at 116+3
- AFR 215's from Tony
- fast 102 / NW 102 Mamofied
- ARH stepped (already installed)
The above cam was initially spec'd to run on an LS6 long block with the LS6 intake along with an A4 trans in a 02 z28.
Being that everything took a back seat, I have since purchased the above heads and intake. I contacted Martin again at the new SRD. His new spec's based upon my new parts are 224-224 612/595 at 116+2. Being that everything is new, should I spend another $450 for a new grind? What would the difference be in terms of return between the two cams.
Thanks guys...
I currently have everything sitting and waiting as life got in the way and everything car related had to take an extreme back seat.
- 223-227 617/598 at 116+3
- AFR 215's from Tony
- fast 102 / NW 102 Mamofied
- ARH stepped (already installed)
The above cam was initially spec'd to run on an LS6 long block with the LS6 intake along with an A4 trans in a 02 z28.
Being that everything took a back seat, I have since purchased the above heads and intake. I contacted Martin again at the new SRD. His new spec's based upon my new parts are 224-224 612/595 at 116+2. Being that everything is new, should I spend another $450 for a new grind? What would the difference be in terms of return between the two cams.
Thanks guys...
TECH Fanatic




Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 252
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Next to none. I would bet there wouldnt be 2hp/lbft difference
any where in curve to 5500 RPM 223*/227* might carry 200-300
RPM farther and maybe make 3-5 more Peak, Maybe. I would
Not change you would never feel the difference.
any where in curve to 5500 RPM 223*/227* might carry 200-300
RPM farther and maybe make 3-5 more Peak, Maybe. I would
Not change you would never feel the difference.
Thanks guys, Martin did say that his original cam would work excellent even with the better flowing heads and intake. However, his new spec took into account the additional efficiency but also retained the smog legal aspect of the grind and my needs. 😀
TECH Fanatic




Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 252
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
But I would NOT! Put in a
5150 by Comp with all you
Have invested in the new
Parts, if it was stock short
Block sure why not. Im shure
You could sell it for $250ish
And recover some.
Just my .02
The 5150 is OK as long as you have good valvetrain stability and aren't using aggressive lobes. If you get a lot of loft, etc, the 5150 is more likely to spall chunks off from the repeated impact.
My issue with comp goes back to a cam that was ground 9 degrees off. My reservation would be that it should be OK, but definitely take the time to degree the cam. Don't assume it's dead on and just install it.
My issue with comp goes back to a cam that was ground 9 degrees off. My reservation would be that it should be OK, but definitely take the time to degree the cam. Don't assume it's dead on and just install it.
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Damn.....I had Martin spec me this cam last summer while he was still with Tick. I never realized that comp had past issue's and assumed that I was getting the better core when I ordered Tick's premium cam kit. I have recently reached out to Martin asking me about the cam. His response was, he has had very very very few problems with comps cams. I just wonder if mine since its custom and not off the shelf has the correctly ordered specification. I really hate to order another at $450 a pop and sell this one off at $250. That really would make my new grind expensive 😀.
Damn.....I had Martin spec me this cam last summer while he was still with Tick. I never realized that comp had past issue's and assumed that I was getting the better core when I ordered Tick's premium cam kit. I have recently reached out to Martin asking me about the cam. His response was, he has had very very very few problems with comps cams. I just wonder if mine since its custom and not off the shelf has the correctly ordered specification. I really hate to order another at $450 a pop and sell this one off at $250. That really would make my new grind expensive .
Install the cam, but definitely degree it while installing to make sure the ICL is correct. Order 11/32" pushrods with 0.125" wall thickness (I would do this anyway, regardless of cam material or vendor). This type of pushrod will go a long way to prevent lofting the valve at peak lift. Verify the spring specs with Martin that he recommends and purchase accordingly - likely BTR platinum duals. You should be OK. If the cam won't degree properly, then stop right there and decide what to do.
Yes it would. What I would do is this -
Install the cam, but definitely degree it while installing to make sure the ICL is correct. Order 11/32" pushrods with 0.125" wall thickness (I would do this anyway, regardless of cam material or vendor). This type of pushrod will go a long way to prevent lofting the valve at peak lift. Verify the spring specs with Martin that he recommends and purchase accordingly - likely BTR platinum duals. You should be OK. If the cam won't degree properly, then stop right there and decide what to do.
Install the cam, but definitely degree it while installing to make sure the ICL is correct. Order 11/32" pushrods with 0.125" wall thickness (I would do this anyway, regardless of cam material or vendor). This type of pushrod will go a long way to prevent lofting the valve at peak lift. Verify the spring specs with Martin that he recommends and purchase accordingly - likely BTR platinum duals. You should be OK. If the cam won't degree properly, then stop right there and decide what to do.
I ended up ordering a new 8620 cam ground by Cam Motion. It arrived today, but is now on da shelf with all my other parts collection. No, I will not sell anything as they are all paid for at this time 😜
I am new to forums in general, I have read some of the guidelines however I have
not figured out how to either start a thread or if i even am allowed
of find the proper one for my question so here goes.
I kinda know that i need to open up air flow from front to back before
even wording about this,but I have bought a bone stock 2002 b4c camaro
What I know so far is that my car has the ls1 engine with
ls6 intake ,243 heads and 373 rear end. And that's it it's unmodified.
I have already decide on a cai and header and exhaust set up.
My question is what is a good recommendation of camshaft
and stall converter set up. I also plan to beef up the fuel pump
and injector size. Thanks for the advice on advance.
not figured out how to either start a thread or if i even am allowed
of find the proper one for my question so here goes.
I kinda know that i need to open up air flow from front to back before
even wording about this,but I have bought a bone stock 2002 b4c camaro
What I know so far is that my car has the ls1 engine with
ls6 intake ,243 heads and 373 rear end. And that's it it's unmodified.
I have already decide on a cai and header and exhaust set up.
My question is what is a good recommendation of camshaft
and stall converter set up. I also plan to beef up the fuel pump
and injector size. Thanks for the advice on advance.
So does that make you a troll,is that how you say it. Isn't that what
you call people who find cars on Google images and post them as their
profile pictures. Then ride around looking for someone to correct,
or attempt to bull to make their day go by. But it's ok I won't ask
anyone anymore questions on this site.
you call people who find cars on Google images and post them as their
profile pictures. Then ride around looking for someone to correct,
or attempt to bull to make their day go by. But it's ok I won't ask
anyone anymore questions on this site.





