Ok. That makes sense to me. I would rather have a little less than to much. Thanks.

Off topic here but I got 155,000 miles on this motor. No smoke when started or running. Runs like a champ. Should I overhaul the lower with new bearings and ring's?

 

I didn't. These bottom ends are pretty incredible. Do your top end and have fun

 

Ah some light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks.

How does this setup sound?
Stock lower
.228/.234 cam
New cam retainer plate
243 heads ported and milled .010
Trunion upgrade
7.375 hardened pushrods
Hyd. Lifters W/cross bar
Pac .650 lift springs/ titanium retainers
Stock LS6 Int/TB
New oil pump/timing chain
42# injectors
1 3/4 full length headers
And a good tune.

Am I on the right track here?

 

That sounds like a pretty sweet setup to me. But just to try to save you the headache I went through, buy a pushrod measuring tool and figure out exactly what length pushrod you need before you buy pushrods. Too long or too short will result in bad valve train geometry and that's never good. It will add extra time to your build but will save money if 7.375 isn't exactly what you need.

 

Damn nothing is easy. I was reading the MAMMO 220 build and he had a descriptive way of checking pushrod length. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Sure thing. Be sure to post up progress and numbers on this build

 

Ya will do. Probly this spring. Its 20 degrees outside now. I will start a new thread cause I'm going to need some help. I will continue doing research on here till then.
I am getting off topic here from the compression title so appreciate all the help.

 

feel free to send me a pm when you get started I'll be happy to help out

 

Thanks. I feel pretty confident I can do this. But the measuring of the pushrods is throwing me off right now. I'm going to the MAMMO thread and reading how he set his up.

 

It's not a bandaid at that point, it's a necessity.
My comment was for those who say they are at 11.5 on 91 with no issues.
Maybe true if the timing is cut way back. Which sort of defeats the purpose.
Gas these days is junk. 91 the worse. Even worse in the winter.

I agree it's better to go with a little less compression.

 

One of the reasons I get away with this is because I'm in Colorado Springs. High altitude = less air = lower dcr. Same reason a pure race cam which will barely idle at sea level only acts like an aggressive street cam up here.

 

It's a good build plan. That cam is almost identical to mine. It pulls hard and has enough overlap to chop really good. Someone beat me to the pushrods. There is a how to on measuring the pushrods. Get yourself a 12" caliper also for measuring. It will delay assembly about a week but prevent having to go back in for corrective surgery

Also on the timing chain, go with a cloyes 3220. It's a single chain but about twice as thick metal as the stock LS1 chain. It was $38 at oreilly auto last year

 

Oh, also if you're auto, get a higher stall converter. Probably in the 3200-3500 range

 

Just a suggestion but I see that you're not to far from Livernois Motorsports. They have some great prices on heads and grind there own cams as well. You might want to check them out

 

Nice. I will grab that timing chain. Oriely's is right down the road. I read the MAMO thread and it does not relate to my build as far as pushrod length.
I spent last night researching the pushrod length. If I'm right you take a pushrod tool and adjust it accordingly tighten the rocker finger tight so there is no slop. Then you are looking for 1-1 3/4 turn till you hit 22 ftlbs with torque wrench. Is this right?

I got the T-56 trans. I'm going with the 3.73 or 4.10. Not sure on that yet.

Thanks. I have the cam already. Bought it on the forums here. It's custom ground for the 243's ported and milled so I was told. As far as after market heads I can't swing that amount of cash now. Some day I will do a complete build probly with a 6.0 bored and then maybe aftermarket heads like 220's or something like that. I need a bigger piggy bank for that tho. I'm porting the heads myself. I don't know everything about heads but I used to work at Dart porting heads so I should be able to do a decent port job on the 243's.

 

I measure to 0 lash (just a hair of drag when spinning the pushrod), take that measurement, then add the recommended amount of preload for the lifter I am running.

 

0 lash that would be finger tight right? I think I'm going with Comp or Lunati lifters with the bar to get rid of the trays after reading the morel thread on here. The 1 - 1 3/4 turns is not the same on all lifters?

 

zero lash is just barely touching when you tighten the rocker bolt. Read the how to for pictures. Basically, you install the adjustable and you find the length where the rocker just barely doesn't rock with the bolt fully tightened. In other words, if you just barely shorten the pushrod, the rocker had lash with the bolt fully tightened. Then, add your preload to the adjustable, find zero lash on the bolt, and measure your rotations to doublecheck your zero lash measurements.

The lifter doesn't affect the bolt rotations to preload calculation. It's the thread pitch on the bolts. If you have a thread pitch of 1.25mm, then one 360 degree rotation is .075" preload. If you have a 1mm thread pitch, one rotation is .062" preload. This is assuming the stock 1.7:1 ratio.

Hope all that helps

 

I doubt Livernois grinds their own, they may have proprietary cams or even proprietary lobes but bet someone else is grinding them.

Well machined parts very smooth, covered in oil with a spring in the lifter plunger means spin the pushrod is generally terrible advise and results in too tight. Zero lash is when the pushrod wont move vertically between the lifter and rocker anymore, much less chance of error this way.

 

I am using stock rockers. Do I have to buy the lifters to find out how much preload I need? I searched on here for a how to check pushrod length but cant find anything. I'm way out in BFE on this one.

That's what I was thinking just make sure there was no movement in the pushrod.