What is supposed to be a wonderful day is turning out to be a real damn nightmare. I have the holley HP efi on a running driving LS1 aluminum stock 350. I swapped in a stroker motor with better cam, better compression, better heads, iron block.. etc....

Now... Ive got all the electrical hooked back up and it just wont run. It does a little stutter and sounds like it backfires... Ive been turning it over so long I'm afraid my prelube is starting to wear thin since I haven't actually gotten enough speed to prime my oil pump yet.


Here is my cam

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-Cams-54-000-11-Roller-Camshaft-GM-Gen-III-Ls1-LsX-Nitrous-/272050151745?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=TbmfaK0yv3rKVU%252FlyIlSgDUgo6Y%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

this is my crankshaft...
Scoggin Dickey SDPC Eagle 434641006100 Crankshaft 4340 Crank SBC LS1, LS2, LS3


This is what is happening.
1st half of this video is TPS at 0 ... after the short pause, I have the TPS floored as if to "clear flood"...

I just swapped out all my coil packs ... brand new spark plugs... and brand new pistons/rods./and brand new crank. brand new heads.

heres my compression guage.


can anyone think of anything to try..

I had a running ls1 I swapped my crank position sensor out of and it didn't make a difference at all.

I have the cam position sensor turned off because I'm not sure what the pickup is for this aftermarket cam. I turned on the 1x in the holley program and it does the exact same thing.

Its almost as if the cam is a cylinder swap of some kind or something ? WTH am I missing ?

 

When I first go to start it up and check the headers... cylinders 2 and 4 are warm... and 6 and 8 are dead cold after a few minutes of cranking.. I pulled the plug on number 8 and it is wet and smells of fuel. The compression guage above is also on cylinder 8 ... so no spark ? or wrong timing of spark ? man I am so lost.... ????? WTH to even check ?

 

Didn't you install the cam? Are you sure that it's timed correctly?

 

i did dot to dot... no advance... i have cranking compression ......?!

 

This am it was about 30 degrees outside... I went straight to a known running engine and pulled the injectors (24lb stock) and swapped them in and tried to start the truck up..

still no good .. I tried it with the setting ls1 24 tooth stock setting... and I tried it with the custom setting on 24 tooth with the cam sensor tuned off ( which I know will run just wont run sequential ... only bank to bank).... no difference either way.

Here it is with the stock injectors swapped in......

I did notice that number 8 isn't firing (header is cold) and number 4 header is cold.... while number 2 and 6 are hot to the touch after cranking on it a few minutes. I swapped the injector wires for the two dead cylinders to the two live cylinders ... and the hot header pipes went cold.. . and the cold header went hot after a few rounds of cranking !!!???? So I went to the good running engine and took the injector harness off of it and swapped it in this not running engine to see if the wiring is messed up in the harness somewhere and it didn't make a difference at all !!! So my computer isn't firing a pulse on #4 or #8 at all it would seem !!! ??? WTH does that mean ?

 

So I figure it has to be the reluctor wheel on the crank messing me up... I pulled the starter, pulled the sensor.. got my mom to hold the camera while I turn the flywheel with a screwdriver...

here is what it looks like through the hole.




( no I don't live with my mom... she was out on the farm and just happened to be there to hold the camera for me... and I was grateful she would )

 

Looks like some teeth of the reluctor wheel are bent.

Russ Kemp

 

at 39 seconds ?... i had to leave for work and didnt get a chance to really look at it other then when you posted it does look bent..... damn if thats all it is thats gonna be awesome

 

2 seperate spots (at the very least) teeth are really bent outta wack.

That's the best I can see.

Gm reluctor ring runout - .028 maximum. The crank sensor is extremely sensitive to runout. As I've read though any runout morE than .020 u will have problems.

The best way is to pull the engine, pull the oil pan & measure the runout with a dial indicator. The teeth can be fixed by easily tapping them with a hammer. Goal would be to get reluctor wheel runout under .010.

Maybe possible to just pull the pan and try to fix the teeth while it's still in the car but I don't know.

 

I seen at 32, 39 and 1:24 seconds the teeth are bent. I think the 1:24 is the same spot as the 32 second spot.

 

https://youtu.be/By9xjBYeVsY

running... thanks guys