Hey LS1tech, I'm new here and I'm trying to find some answers before I begin my build. I'm gonna pick up an LM7, iron block w/ aluminum heads. I'm looking at an XR275HR cam from Comp. I have heard is a good cam for a near stock 5.3L motor. Next is valve springs, what should I be looking for? Then, anything else I should get upgraded while I'm in there??

 

Good inspect on bearings. Maybe plasti gauge them for peiece of mind. Best way to do it would be to mic everything out so you get exact measurements on everything.

Im currently plasti gauging my Bottom end in my L33. I pulled it apart with 70k miles on it and everything was sweet. But re ringing and bearing it because I wanted to rebuild it just to do it. My own first engine build. So ill take the experience. If you fully pull it apart make sure to clean all the oil gallies out really well and make sure everything is spotless on assembly and you wont have a problem

 

If it was a running engine before, why on earth would you plastigauge the bearings??? If they weren't spun, don't screw with them. Best case, you contaminate them with dirt for absolutely no reason.

Keep it simple, and get a cam below .600 lift. That way the only part of the valvetrain you need to upgrade is the springs.

 

Do we know how many miles on the engine and have proof of that and running condition? If so, this is a case where I have to agree..don't mess with a good thing. Factory engines go 300K+ so they know how to put them together.

Pick a cam and let that dictate the valve springs.

Most important:

What is this going in?
What supporting pieces(trans, rear end, exhaust, tires, etc.) are planned?
What are your expectations..how do you want this thing to run?

 

I have been having second thoughts on a fill tear down myself lol as long as it runs well I'm not gonna pull apart bottom end.

After some researching and taking to some people on another LSx group. I really like the TSP 220R cam. Gonna get their Chromoly pushrods (7.4") as well then PRC dual valve springs good to .650 lift, with LS7 lifters. TSP rep told me that the steel retainers will be fine with said cam in a 5.3 motor.

For now, just the motor build. But I have been thinking about a 2wd Silverado or maybe an S10.
I would like to put a T56 behind the motor when it goes into a vehicle.

Maybe I should just go with an F body to avoid complicated swaps?

I would like it to be around ~330-360 whp and just be a decent weekend car. I like a rougher idle too, doesn't need to be super tame because it won't be a daily

 

Also, if I go with LS7 lifters, do I need the LS7 lifter guides as well or do stock guides work?

 

You don't need that much lift in a small valve 5.3 head. Once you open the valve far enough that more air is able to flow between the head and valve than the actual port itself, adding more lift does absolutely nothing but decrease PTV clearance and idle quality.

This cam is FAR better suited for a mild 5.3. You can also use cheaper single beehive springs and won't have to upgrade pushrods. That's just extra money saved.

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-5004-te...-camshaft.aspx

Hell, either of the shelf-grind Trick Flow LS cams will make similar or more power than the TSP 220r and will work with single beehive springs. You call TSP, they're going to try to sell you more expensive springs, retainers, pushrods, a timing chain.. etc.

 

LS7 lifters are the standard service replacement for GM vehicles AFAIK. They drop into any LS engine with no modifications required. That being said, new lifter retainers are cheap(maybe $30 for the whole set?) insurance and if you are in there anyway, I say replace them. Few failures but I will tell you that I've taken apart a few high mileage 5.3s and you could tell the plastic was getting a little on the brittle side.

Food for thought..heads come off when you changethe lifters. If you are looking atn early 5.3, a typical machine shop can cut the intake valve seat out to a LS1 sized 2" intake valve without removing the stock seat. Exhaust valve is already LS1 size. You will be changing valve springs anyway so they are coming apart. Nice used LS1 stock valves are almost throwaway price-wise. If you have the lower compression pistons you could also stand a small mill to up compression. I think for a couple hundred bucks would net you some nice gains there, especially if you are wanting a relatively aggressive cam.

Last bit of advice, decide on your vehicle before you lock in the cam. S10 vs Silverado can be a thousand pound or more difference. This changes a lot. Also I know you want a T56(and I fully support the man pedal) but sometimes vehicle choice causes compromises you don't see coming.

 

The reason I want to avoid the machine shop is because its gets expensive really quick! I can save money on components by choosing the right ones but a machine shop has the same prices (give or take) everywhere.

That being said, would a swap to 4.8L flattop pistons be an alternative way to increase compression?

Along with the TSP ST3 "low lift" cam, LS7 lifters and guides, and the LS6 beehives as the rest of the build.

I like the low-mid rpm grunt of the proposed build, even if it isn't put into a truck. Would a 4th gen Trans Am be an easier car to swap into?

 

I wouldn't swap a NA 5.3 into a 98-02 F body. You can get them with a 5.7 already installed from the factory. Do some basic bolt ons like headers and 1.8 rockers and hit your power goals. Cheaper than building a 5.3 and swapping it into a V6 camaro.

 

The older style pistons are pressed pin. There is a chance you would need a machine shop to swap pistons for you anyway. Milling the heads would be easier. Taking the bottom end apart is typically asking for trouble.

 

I have run the XR275HR camshaft. It made excellent power and had great drivability, but the valve train noise drove me crazy. The best thing I ever did was start using Cam Motion camshafts. They are ultra high quality, make great power and best of all, they make for a quiet valve train. If you were considering the XR275HR, have a look at the Titan 2, you won't be disappointed.
http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan2

 

Okay so I will look into a slight head milling. Just for an LS1 intake valve? And to up the compression, would require shorter pushrods?

What would be a decent vehicle for the motor you think? Stay automatic in a Silverado? Maybe find a 5 speed/4.8 truck so I can have a manual? Or go lightweight S10?

 

You do realize the going rate on an LS1 T56 is ~$2000, right? Factor in price of slave cylinder, clutch, driveshaft, shifter, and crossmember and you're over $3000.

The beauty of the LS is that is swaps into virtually anything. They're physically small with a huge aftermarket. Put it in whatever you want, doesn't have to be an Fbody or Silverado. I did an 85 Cutlass Supreme that was a 3.8 V6/200 Metric car to a cammed 4.8 and TH350 trans in 24 hours. Total cost: $2000.

 

^^^^ I strongly second this if committing to an aftermarket cam.

 

S10 would haul ***. I have LS-10 at home that is a blast to drive

May consider 243/799 heads and a simple mill job vs cutting the valves out

 

A 5-speed truck is not a bad idea. Not a lot around but they are out there. Might be a nice project for you to cut your LS teeth on and then decide what you want. Keep in mind the 5-speed would be a NV3500. Tough transmission for what it was intended for but I would mandate a T56 or better if you ever step up to large cubes and big power. Fully hopped up 4.8 or 5.3 I think is fine though.

You sound like a stick guy so I'll give you some advice..NV3500 shifts far better than truck transmissions of old like a SM465 but it will never shift like a late model T56. And I wonder if you'll ever get it to shift well at 6500RPM. (but hey; my old 465 sometimes didn't like to shift at 5000 so it's still an evolutionary leap)

That being said, IMO, if you want a stick, you won't be happy with anything else. It's such a lifestyle thing for me I just won't compromise on it. But perhaps I am reading too much into your previously stated desire for a manual transmission.

 

True this..243s are getting a little cheaper(just sold some for $300 with a slight cosmetic issue) and to the right buyer your 862s can be worth a hundred or so if in good shape. The 243 is a better port design and will probably flow about 10% more than the 862s with the valve cut out. (243 already comes with 2" intake valve and also LS6/2 springs)

 

Mercier, I am dying to drive a manual more often. My car is an Auto ( a GTP), and its decent for really long drives and for when I'm being lazy and just stomp it when I wanna go fast. But I love driving a stick, my dad has a manual K1500 that I drive from time to time and I love it.

I don't have much to compare it too, so I would honestly be happy with whatever manual trans I was able to get to work.

When it comes time to put it all together, I'll see if I can find a set of 243 heads for cheap but I am trying to stay on a budget so we shall see lol

 

Then don't compromise. Get yourself a stick. FWIW, head swaps are easy in larger vehicles. See this article for what you can do with a bone stock 5.3 with a $50 LS1 cam and headers:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...st-comparison/

Then you can save your bucks for a CM cam and 243s.