I am new to this site and engines entirely and don't know much so sorry for the broad question. I want to start a build of a turbocharged LQ4. My question is, generally, what would I have to replace to make the motor solid enough to handle around 800 peak hp? And about how much it would cost (not counting cost for block and turbo system) with only the essential parts? I plan on using a large turbo to get big power so I only want to make a strong and solid motor and avoid as many exotic or costly components as possible.

Any feedback is appreciated!

 

Where are you located?
What year is the engine?

 

Located in South Carolina. Haven't bought the engine but looking for a LQ4 Chevy iron block 6.0, which I believe were produced from 2002-2007.

 

LQ4 was produced starting in 1999 back when it came with iron heads.

Any LS based engine 05 and later will have floating pin rods/pistons that can handle 800+ HP. You can make 800+ with any of the engines, even the 4.8.

 

Like Joe said, the stock internals have been known to handle over 800whp, however, there really isn't much of a margin of safety. Any little bit of detonation and the whole motor could be reduced to scrap metal. If you want to go that route, pick out a cheap 4.8/5.3L since they're so cheap.

If you want something more reliable, just about any off the shelf combination of forged h-beam rods and pistons would work. Callies Compstar rods and Wiseco pistons would be my suggestion. With heavy wall pins, I've run them in a 1000whp nitrous LS7 without any problems. Something like that, though, I woudl suggest a good machinist go through everything and make sure the clearances are adequate.

 

My aluminum 5.3 has seen 30 PSI in combination with lean conditions as lean as 15.5:1 (170% duty cycle on my 80 lb injectors).
Detonation does usually take out either the piston ring lands or the rods first, but knock on wood, I've see some pretty heavy bouts of detonation on a few occasions and I just removed the heads and oil pan last month to find not a single sign of damage anywhere on my engine.

Low timing and water/meth injection goes a LONG way on these engines. I'm at work and mine is parked outside right now. As long as its not pouring rain or snowing (old cars with window leaks and drag radials aren't very wet weather friendly), I'm driving it, regardless of how cold it is outside.

I too would start with a 4.8/5.3. Still capable of 800 HP very easily, and dirt cheap to replace.

 

Light, cheap, durable. Pick 2. you can spend money on just the rebuild with Gen 4 rods and pistons and get away with less than 2k easily. Or choose a route for higher hp and spend 10k plus. This is just the longblock of course. All other parts will just keep adding up.

I myself and doing a S482 turbo build on a SBE or Stock bottom end LQ4. Gen 4 rods and pistons. I will be over 10k into it before its done. Includes the engine, turbo, trany, rear end, driveshaft, EFI parts ect ect ect.. I want it to be reliable as best as possible.

 

Yea but I've read the 1999-2001 model had some problem, don't remember exactly what it was (maybe not a big problem).

I have an 2001 5.3 at the moment have read a lot about the 6.0 and just kinda got stuck on getting one. The way I see it, if I find a good deal on the block, I can spend less to get more hp. I thought the 6.0 bottom end would handle the power a lot more reliably than a 5.3, but idk.

 

Cheap and durable is the aim, hoping the turbo will make up for the weight. Looking to spend more like $5k on the longblock. I'm going for the same thing though, looking to make it as reliable as possible so it can handle big boost. But I also want to be able to turn down the turbo, to make the motor last, for everyday driving (should still have plenty of power to beat those annoying mustang drivers)

 

Don't want to go that route if possible, I'd like to build a reliable 6.0 that can push 800-1000 hp for long periods of time but not 24/7. I would just turn the turbo down when everyday driving.

Thanks for the recommendations I'll look into those for sure. Also thanks for the tip!

 

I have a 2001 5.3 at the moment but have heard that the 6.0's will handle the 800-1000 hp a lot more reliable but not sure if it true. After replacing rods and Pistons would the power handling be the same?

They are more expensive but planning to buy a wrecked vehicle with a 6.0 for cheap and probably just take the short block and sell the rest and try to make my money back. Ik it's a bit of a stretch but here's an article on someone that did it http://oppositelock.kinja.com/how-to...ree-1131506504

 

I am doing the same thing but with stock bottom end. I'll run it on the street at around 6-700 rwhp and be able to turn it up for the track days between 900-1000. As for the mustangs, I wouldn't worry much. LOL.. Mine is still a fully stock 175+k engine, stock 4L80e trany with a 3.90 rear gear. I have beat all mustangs so far on the road and track. Only guy close so far had a new not stock GT at the track. I don't think they know how to really drive them.

You can get a good crank, rods and pistons for about 2-2500 and then spend the rest on building it. I am going for the stock bottom end deal. Seeing what I can get out of it.