Replacement Performance Engine for a 2005/2006 Full Size Chevy Truck
I was looking at a Chevy SS but for much less than the $45,000 it would cost me for the SS, I could buy a Gen III Full Size Chevy truck (Yukon, Tahoe, Avalanche) and replace the high-mileage motor with a crate engine from this page:
https://www.gmpartsonline.net/ls-lsx-crate-motors.html
In this way, I could satisfy my performance bug, but also get a vehicle with some excellent utility.
The idea would be to get 500+RWHP as cheaply and cleanly as possible.
If I were looking at the LC9, for example, for $5K I could get a nice base to start with.
With 9.5:1 compression, the LC9 is very boost-friendly, and with a bolt-on TVS (+ a cam), I could get to my goal rather easily.
Thoughts?
https://www.gmpartsonline.net/ls-lsx-crate-motors.html
In this way, I could satisfy my performance bug, but also get a vehicle with some excellent utility.

The idea would be to get 500+RWHP as cheaply and cleanly as possible.
If I were looking at the LC9, for example, for $5K I could get a nice base to start with.
With 9.5:1 compression, the LC9 is very boost-friendly, and with a bolt-on TVS (+ a cam), I could get to my goal rather easily.
Thoughts?
Wowzers..$5100 for the 5.3 and $6200 for the 6.2? If you are stuck on this place, obviously get the additional displacement for $1100. Then boost it!
I would find a 30K-mile pull for half or less and spend the savings on a LSA blower. Same performance and still 100K-150K miles to go and you saved a lot of cash. Eventually the rest of the truck will fall apart around your new crate engine so I think 0 miles is potentially wasteful unless you just drive a LOT.
I would find a 30K-mile pull for half or less and spend the savings on a LSA blower. Same performance and still 100K-150K miles to go and you saved a lot of cash. Eventually the rest of the truck will fall apart around your new crate engine so I think 0 miles is potentially wasteful unless you just drive a LOT.
You know the 5.3L is no slouch. You know if you bump the compression It should be pretty responsive. Especially if it's cammed right.
Have you considered getting a reman short block and building something?
There is a new set of heads on the way to the market that should shake things up with the small bore community.
I am starting a 5.3 build soon and should be receiving a set of these new heads in a few weeks.
I have to say my personal GMT800 trucks seem to be out lasting the GMT 900 trucks I have been around. Every time I go to the dealer and see a 50K sticker on the new trucks It makes me want to hang on to what I have.
Have you considered getting a reman short block and building something?
There is a new set of heads on the way to the market that should shake things up with the small bore community.
I am starting a 5.3 build soon and should be receiving a set of these new heads in a few weeks.

I have to say my personal GMT800 trucks seem to be out lasting the GMT 900 trucks I have been around. Every time I go to the dealer and see a 50K sticker on the new trucks It makes me want to hang on to what I have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/440HP-6-0-LQ...-/270985680485
Here you go all your stuff from your motor will swap right over.
Here you go all your stuff from your motor will swap right over.
Wowzers..$5100 for the 5.3 and $6200 for the 6.2? If you are stuck on this place, obviously get the additional displacement for $1100. Then boost it!
I would find a 30K-mile pull for half or less and spend the savings on a LSA blower. Same performance and still 100K-150K miles to go and you saved a lot of cash. Eventually the rest of the truck will fall apart around your new crate engine so I think 0 miles is potentially wasteful unless you just drive a LOT.
I would find a 30K-mile pull for half or less and spend the savings on a LSA blower. Same performance and still 100K-150K miles to go and you saved a lot of cash. Eventually the rest of the truck will fall apart around your new crate engine so I think 0 miles is potentially wasteful unless you just drive a LOT.
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As far as accessory drives and all that no, but it's readily available on performancetrucks.net or even here.
I'd personally go with an LQ4 (dished piston) and slap on that LSA blower, or go with a cheaper TMS motor that at least has forged pistons. I see no reason to go forged crank or rods for your goals, and you'll want to keep redline around 6500 MAX for blower-rotor speed, depending on what pulley you put on.
I'd personally go with an LQ4 (dished piston) and slap on that LSA blower, or go with a cheaper TMS motor that at least has forged pistons. I see no reason to go forged crank or rods for your goals, and you'll want to keep redline around 6500 MAX for blower-rotor speed, depending on what pulley you put on.
Short block thread I was reffering to https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...-specials.html
Some LSA swap info threads.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...light=LSA+Swap
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...ite-up-540743/
Some LSA swap info threads.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...light=LSA+Swap
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...ite-up-540743/









