General info about cam an its potential?
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Teching In
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From: Los Angeles
General info about cam an its potential? So i have a stock ls1 block that i recently slapped some 243 heads not port & polished but dual springs chromemolly pushrods & titanium retainers matched with this cam (224/230 .612/.612 116 lsa) i dont knot much about the cam other then its like a boost cam but can anyone shed more light on it new to ls1s aswell.
Also another question which upgrade would be best used 800$ a fast 102 intake manifold, no tb i can get ebay one, or torque converter plus intstall?
Well & 5 to dyno tune lol
Thanks.
Also another question which upgrade would be best used 800$ a fast 102 intake manifold, no tb i can get ebay one, or torque converter plus intstall?
Well & 5 to dyno tune lol
Thanks.
Torque converter. This will make everything perform better, current and future. My guess is a 3000-3200 would do nicely for a regular driver with that cam but consult someone that drives automatics daily or a mfg for exact specs.
While exhaust duration bias can be seen as boost-friendly, it doesn't make it a boost cam necessarily. In #1 LS2 in the Jeep(basically just a 6.0 version of what you've put together there, I ran a 222/228 naturally aspirated because I couldn't get long tune LS headers to fit a CJ. With 1-5/8" shorties and 2.5" duals, we put more exhaust duration in to make up for the intake side flowing better than the exhaust. My LSA was a little tighter so your cam will favor a little higher RPM but that should be a real nice cam for 243s.
As I think you hinted in your post, that cam will not only benefit from, but basically require a tune.
While exhaust duration bias can be seen as boost-friendly, it doesn't make it a boost cam necessarily. In #1 LS2 in the Jeep(basically just a 6.0 version of what you've put together there, I ran a 222/228 naturally aspirated because I couldn't get long tune LS headers to fit a CJ. With 1-5/8" shorties and 2.5" duals, we put more exhaust duration in to make up for the intake side flowing better than the exhaust. My LSA was a little tighter so your cam will favor a little higher RPM but that should be a real nice cam for 243s.
As I think you hinted in your post, that cam will not only benefit from, but basically require a tune.
While exhaust duration bias can be seen as boost-friendly, it doesn't make it a boost cam necessarily.
A stall in the 32-4000 range (depending on how you use the car) will make a huge difference.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
Torque converter. This will make everything perform better, current and future. My guess is a 3000-3200 would do nicely for a regular driver with that cam but consult someone that drives automatics daily or a mfg for exact specs.
While exhaust duration bias can be seen as boost-friendly, it doesn't make it a boost cam necessarily. In #1 LS2 in the Jeep(basically just a 6.0 version of what you've put together there, I ran a 222/228 naturally aspirated because I couldn't get long tune LS headers to fit a CJ. With 1-5/8" shorties and 2.5" duals, we put more exhaust duration in to make up for the intake side flowing better than the exhaust. My LSA was a little tighter so your cam will favor a little higher RPM but that should be a real nice cam for 243s.
As I think you hinted in your post, that cam will not only benefit from, but basically require a tune.
While exhaust duration bias can be seen as boost-friendly, it doesn't make it a boost cam necessarily. In #1 LS2 in the Jeep(basically just a 6.0 version of what you've put together there, I ran a 222/228 naturally aspirated because I couldn't get long tune LS headers to fit a CJ. With 1-5/8" shorties and 2.5" duals, we put more exhaust duration in to make up for the intake side flowing better than the exhaust. My LSA was a little tighter so your cam will favor a little higher RPM but that should be a real nice cam for 243s.
As I think you hinted in your post, that cam will not only benefit from, but basically require a tune.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 37
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From: Los Angeles
Thanks yea he told me 28 to 3200 being rhe best so i didnt know if i went with 3600 if itl be too high or not
Thanks yea he told me 28 to 3200 being rhe best so i didnt know if i went with 3600 if itl be too high or not
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Los Angeles
Really? What about curcle d & yank they both provide "race" converters from 450 3200 stall on texas speed, circle d has them aswell for 450? On yanks sight they have it listed for 3600 stall at 795?
Don't expect much quality for $800 in a converter - this isn't a good place to save money.
Hell, I bought a $199 revmax converter and beat the living snot out of it for years with a 450rwhp car both at the dragstrip and road course...and it performed like a champ. You can't honestly say with a straight face that a converter costing 4x as much is a "cheapo".
You must be thinking of a different platform alltogether or triple disks.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2016
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From: Los Angeles
The guy said no good converters arw around 800 so i disagree and put yank as a example..
Also circle d has them for 450 on there site
No im thinking ok yank direct from site single disk performance 3600 stall is 750 ...
Hell, even a $450 one like you mentioned will be more than fine for street and light track duty. You don't need a $1400 triple disk monster to putt around town.