internals needed for 10's in 98-02 fbody
My car that I recently sold did run 10's stock weight, but it had full bolt-on's, cam, 317 heads, and a P1SC procharger. Before the procharger I had full bolt-on's, 224 cam, TSP 5.3L heads, and a yank 3800 stall and it ran 11.80. That was a full weight car. Since then, there have been some advancements in cam and head technology, and I know I could get a little more out of a different stall. Regardless, I was just looking to see what it took to get to 10's NA. I'm still unsure if I'll go with a NA or procharged setup. Since I'd use this car on the street, I'd rather it run mid-11's and be more "streetable" with better reliability.
I'm at 3000lb and a full mamo top end and high 220's cam and no cage. Guessing I won't be allowed back next time I go to the strip...
My only issue right now is 4th tops out at 117MPH.
To the OP: FI or Nitrous will be cheaper than N/A on a SBE. You have to have a top of the line top end to pull it off full weight. Optimization is everything. FI or NO2 will make it stupid easy.
Suspension and weather are definitely key. It'll be hard to run 10s in 90 degree weather with a high density altitude.
You would need to pull 60's in the 1.5s, so suspension and tire choice are key.
Where you live as far as weather is concerned is key. My car is n/a and it runs quicker times in 50 degree weather than 80 degree weather. I'm fortunate living on the east coast because from November to March I can run in cool dry weather, and at times have a negative DA.



