I'm looking for a connecting rod (6.100 length) that will fit a piston with a .943 pin. It could be press fit or floating. All the rod I'm seeing is .927 .944 and .945. It's a lq4 build

 

SCAT 2-ICR6100-944P best bang/buck.

What hp? What rpm?

 

It's a N/A 370 build. Should be around 400 at wheels. How does that work. .943 pistons and .944 rods??

 

look down about 3 threads from this thread and we are talking about the same rods being used. check it out.

 

I always thought the piston pin should be bigger than the rod bore lol

 

What specific piston are you using?

 

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h1129cpa75mm

 

Forged rods/pistons for 400whp?
Doesn't it seem like you're going through a lot of effort for so little?

 

The pistons are not forged. Just rods. I wanna build the bottom end strong so I don't have to worry about touching it down the road. The motor is going into a 87 caprice so it not a race car. Just a weekend cruiser and a Lil pep in her step. 400whp is good for me but I think I'll make more. Lq4.30 over(370) flat top pistons, milled 243 heads and a custom eps cam 234/246 602" 607"

 

I think at 400whp, you wouldn't be touching it down the road anyway.

 

Well that's good to know. I can drive it hard and won't have to worry about it. I'll prolly see the track once or twice a year. But a lot of street racing. Just wanted it to be strong

 

Stock LQ4 rods are good to around 600-650 HP reliably with a good tune.
Stock gen 4 pistons/rods are good to 850-900 HP reliably on a good tune.

Of course, both have been pushed WAY higher, we're talking 850-900 for the Gen 3 rods/pistons and 1200-1300 on gen 4 rods/pistons.

If I were you, I would just pick whatever I could get reasonably cheap/easy without overthinking it, since you're already venturing into the realm of unnecessary.

 

I just don't like the idea of using stock stuff over. I'll just spend the money on new stuff

 

That's the mentality that usually causes me to separate from the N/A guys.
This isn't 1970. These engines are very well put together.

Most N/A guys seem to think its necessary for them to upgrade pistons/rods, spend $2000 on heads to make 450 HP. I simply can't fathom doing that amount of work for such little power. I've made 700 before on a junkyard LY6 with a mild cam and a 250 shot of nitrous. I've made 850+ on a 5.3 with a single turbo. I've yet to blow up a stock bottom end, and in the 5000+ HP I've made across the LS engines I've built, I probably have less money tied up in all of the long blocks than some guys here have tied up in a single 500 HP N/A LS1 long block.

 

To answer your question, Callies Compstar have rods in 6.100 length with a .943 pin.
Enjoy.

 

Well pistons were 250. Scat i beams r right at 300. By the time I buy arp bolts and have stock rods machined I'll be over 200 dollars

 

ARP bolts in stock rods? Another common problem...

Unless you plan on revving above 7000 RPM, the stock rod bolts will outlast the rods all day long.

 

These other members on this forum got me all confused lol

 

this is what I would do. my truck weights a lot probly same as your car. I had a killer setup in my sig before going to a turbo swap.

Use the stock crank, get the stronger gen4 rods off ebay usually $150 bux and use a speed pro forged .30 piston. Use some good bearings like clevite or such on bottom end.

Now topend if u can swing it I would get stock 243s and send to AI to portand polish, and run a torque cam. your car is heavy and needs something like a torque stage 2 cam. And last run some nitrous if u choose to. this setup will put down over 450rwhp and over 700rwhp on a 200 shot!! Good Luck!

 

I have gen 4 floating rods, but my pistons has a pin of .943 and the stock floating rods are .927 right?