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LS1 low oil pressure.

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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 09:04 PM
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Default LS1 low oil pressure.

To make a long story short. I have an 02 TA an ls1 with 154000 miles. I had a head gasket started leaking on me. And I ended up doing several other upgrades.

Ported, polished, and milled heads, mild cam, 3600 stall, and build 4l60e.

Before I did any work the car it idled around 45 psi at 2000 rpm it was 60psi, 4000 Rpm 70 psi and 6000 Rpm it would peg the gauge at 80 psi.
After the build it ran around that some oil pressure for about a week.

I got in one night after work I noticed and at a idle I had 20 psi, 2000 Rpm 25 psi. So I changed the cam gasket again. It helped some I had 25 psi at idle but still have 25psi at 2000 Rpm.

I am by no means a ls expert but I have had my hands on a few small block chevy. I think it's the oilpump is. Going out or the pick up is leaking oil back in.the sump. Is there something else I should check first.
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 09:57 PM
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Have you hooked a mechanical gauge up to it to see what it's true reading is? These oil sending units aren't the best in these cars and if you replaced it with one from a local parts store recently, those have all read lower in my experience. I'd throw a mechanical gauge on it and see what it reads.
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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Deeohgie69
Have you hooked a mechanical gauge up to it to see what it's true reading is? These oil sending units aren't the best in these cars and if you replaced it with one from a local parts store recently, those have all read lower in my experience. I'd throw a mechanical gauge on it and see what it reads.
This guy has the right idea.

Yeah, the cluster gauges aren't the most accurate by any means. I'd hook up a mechanical gauge and check.
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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 02:27 AM
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Pump O-ring, cam retainer plate seal
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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Deeohgie69
Have you hooked a mechanical gauge up to it to see what it's true reading is? These oil sending units aren't the best in these cars and if you replaced it with one from a local parts store recently, those have all read lower in my experience. I'd throw a mechanical gauge on it and see what it reads.
Alright I will put a mechanical gauge on it and see what I have. I broke the sending unit when I pulled the intake the first time. So it was just replacing less than 1000 miles ago.
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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DietCoke
Pump O-ring, cam retainer plate seal
I have not done the pump O-Ring. But the cam retainer plate was the very first thing I tried. From what I've heard that are bad about leaking after a cam swap.
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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Puke13
Alright I will put a mechanical gauge on it and see what I have. I broke the sending unit when I pulled the intake the first time. So it was just replacing less than 1000 miles ago.
I tried the 3 local part stores Oreily's, advanced, and autobone, with all of them reading about 10psi or so lower than what the mechanical gauge read, give or take a couple psi. I ended up going to the junkyard and just grabbing a couple off of trucks (I think around 00-02 year but I can't remember?) that had the same connection as our ls1. Once I popped it in, everything was good to go. For some reason these part store ones don't read as good as an oem one in my experience.
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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 11:37 AM
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Pinched o ring
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after 150k miles you DID replace the oil pump while doing the cam change I hope?
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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 05:16 PM
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I replaced my oil pump when it was torn down for the H/C/I swap and I only had 17,000mi on the odometer at the time. Probably did not need to but I figured 100.00 was cheap insurance. I could not fathom tearing down a 150,000 mile engine and not replacing the lifters, timing chain, oil pump, o ring, and retainer plate seal. That is what 2-300.00 in parts that could potentially save thousands down the road.
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