LS6 Ticking when warm and under hard cornering
#21
Interesting, if you want to try something different that won't hurt a thing go to Walmart abd get a bottle of transX auto matic trans conditioner and put 3 ozs in your engibe oil. It won't hurt anything but it will help seal and oring trouble and clean the lifters.
Darth has a good idea, maybe you have a pin hole in the pickup tube or crack.
Darth has a good idea, maybe you have a pin hole in the pickup tube or crack.
#22
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pembroke pines FL
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if this were the case, should I see a pressure drop while turning left? I think i would. Going to test this as well.
#24
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pembroke pines FL
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So after further testing I think the tick that comes up while turning hard left is not engine related. Seems to be coming from the rear and I could hear it clearly on my gopro. I tested this while driving in a circle at decent Gs and noticing it sounded like its coming from behind. I shifted to get the rpms down but maintain the speed and the tick did not change with the rpm. So I guess thats a good thing.
The engine itself still has a sewing machine noise. Only comes up once oil temps are over 140°F. Ill try to post video of it soon.
The engine itself still has a sewing machine noise. Only comes up once oil temps are over 140°F. Ill try to post video of it soon.
#25
Interesting, if you want to try something different that won't hurt a thing go to Walmart abd get a bottle of transX auto matic trans conditioner and put 3 ozs in your engibe oil. It won't hurt anything but it will help seal and oring trouble and clean the lifters.
Darth has a good idea, maybe you have a pin hole in the pickup tube or crack.
Darth has a good idea, maybe you have a pin hole in the pickup tube or crack.
#26
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,836 Likes
on
1,145 Posts
The following users liked this post:
wannafbody (01-23-2020)
#27
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pembroke pines FL
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Would this be ok to do on a higher mileage engine? Mine is dead silent cold but after warming up has what I think is a lifter tick that gets louder after a rev when the rpms are coming down. Then its a steady faint tick at idle. Engine internally is completely stock as far as I know.
#28
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 757
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On your theory number 2 if this was the case your oil pressure would be much much lower. Ask me how I know lol. If the o-ring on the pickup tube is pinched or is an issue it will cause bad oil pressure and noises only after warming up. When my car was cold it had great pressure and no noises.
#29
I have been driving the car for a while like this but after a recent autox event it has begun to worry me. Basically the car makes a ticking noise when it warms up, and it gets worse when cornering hard. This noise has been driving me insane, but I have a couple ideas of what it could be and hopefully some of you guys could shed some light on this.
about 2 to 3 years ago I swapped in a 228/230 .571/.573 on 112° comp cam and had the heads ported by TEA stage 2. Springs are PSI 1511ML and LS7 Lifters. I also went with a melling 10295 oil pump.
Now I am hoping that the ticking noise is lifters. I can rule out exhaust leak since at a recent autox event, the ticking got louder when I took a hard left turn. The ticking seems to be coming from the driver side, so there might be a connection there.
Right now I have 3 theories: First, I went with too much lifter preload. I chose 7.350" pushrods after measureing with the pushrod length tool. After my measurments that comes to .088" preload. After doing this I later learned that .060" is recommended for LS7 lifters and aftermarket cams. But I am not sure if going roughly .025" less is going to make a difference or prevent the lifters from collapsing.
Theory 2: I could have pinched the oring on the oil pump and that is causing oil airation. I've seen this cause the symptom that I am seeing where the engine starts ticking after getting warmed up. However, my oil pressure is roughly 60psi at startup and when its completely warm I get 42-44psi. I would think that it should be less if this were the case.
Theory 3: i just have a bad set of lifters, but I would think that they would be tapping all the time instead of once the engine is warm.
Now I am hoping its not something worse like rod knock, but it does not get louder with more revs and it does not go away if I start shutting down cylinders so there is still hope in that regard. If you read this far then thanks. Hopefully some of you guys can give me some ideas on getting this solved.
about 2 to 3 years ago I swapped in a 228/230 .571/.573 on 112° comp cam and had the heads ported by TEA stage 2. Springs are PSI 1511ML and LS7 Lifters. I also went with a melling 10295 oil pump.
Now I am hoping that the ticking noise is lifters. I can rule out exhaust leak since at a recent autox event, the ticking got louder when I took a hard left turn. The ticking seems to be coming from the driver side, so there might be a connection there.
Right now I have 3 theories: First, I went with too much lifter preload. I chose 7.350" pushrods after measureing with the pushrod length tool. After my measurments that comes to .088" preload. After doing this I later learned that .060" is recommended for LS7 lifters and aftermarket cams. But I am not sure if going roughly .025" less is going to make a difference or prevent the lifters from collapsing.
Theory 2: I could have pinched the oring on the oil pump and that is causing oil airation. I've seen this cause the symptom that I am seeing where the engine starts ticking after getting warmed up. However, my oil pressure is roughly 60psi at startup and when its completely warm I get 42-44psi. I would think that it should be less if this were the case.
Theory 3: i just have a bad set of lifters, but I would think that they would be tapping all the time instead of once the engine is warm.
Now I am hoping its not something worse like rod knock, but it does not get louder with more revs and it does not go away if I start shutting down cylinders so there is still hope in that regard. If you read this far then thanks. Hopefully some of you guys can give me some ideas on getting this solved.
Did u ever figure out what the problem was..??
#30
TECH Senior Member
OP hasn't been here since March 2018
#31
Yea I saw that.. still tho if he sees it in his email he might respond.. I’m going thru kinda the same thing.. I’m leaning towards pickup tube oring sucking air.. the engine is apart and (green) oring appears to be fine but nevertheless I’m getting bubbles on my dipstick whenever hot and running.. I’m gonna use some silicone on the oring and make a gasket for the tube to pump mating surface..that should eliminate that as a problem anyways
#32
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
He did figure it out. It was his rear end and not engine related.
The following users liked this post:
G Atsma (01-23-2020)
#33
TECH Senior Member
I just put last-seen dates up as a heads-up in case OP does not respond.